This page is devoted to the
mods done to the front suspension.
The first pic is the result of work

done in 1975 when I HAD! to put a
351C 4gear in the car, these are one
hacked set of towers!

They worked just fine till I started
lowering the car, the only way I new,
cut the springs! Pretty soon the
control arms were hitting the rubber
stops on the towers, alot! But I loved
the look so I drove it.
Problems, the towers were getting pushed
in little by little,so more shims at wheel
alignment time,

which created more leverage on the mount
bolts which evenually did
this! SOOOO....30 yrs later....
After doing alot of other stuff (the car
was in storage for 15 yrs 85-00) I decided
to make more changes.But with a little more
knowledge.
It started with deciding to put the V6 in
the car. That gave me an empty engine bay.
I got to looking at the mounts and how much
anti-dive Ford put in these cars (top pic) and
reading what Carrol Shelby did to help the early
Mustangs turn better, I decided to lower the
upper control arm mounts. I lowered the front
upper arm bolt more than the rear bolt to take
some of the anti-dive out at the same time.
If you look closely at the top pic again you
will see the center punch holes for the new
mount location.
I then disassembled the front end, drilled out
the new bolt locations, reassembled without
springs and shocks.
I put the car on jack stands, making sure the
rockers kept the same rake as when it was on
its wheels. With old school wheel alignment
equipment I did a wheel alignment.
Keeping track of how many shims where I
removed the upper A arm and installed that
piece of metal on the bench into the mount
using the shims in their proper locations.
Then I welded the metal piece to the tower
removed the shims and cut the mount plate off!

These bolts now represent the upper control arm
in the correct location. From here I just hung
an 1/8 in. shim on each bolt and started with
steel that looked decent and cleared suspension
travel. I started with a 1/4 in. thick piece of
square tubing and fit from there.
Sorry, forgot to take finish pic.

Next the spindles, whats different from stock
in this pic?

Now, this mod will be booed by a lot of people
and I don't recommend it unless you can take alot
of hassle from nasayers. I cut about 1 1/4 inches
out of the spindle between the upper balljoint
and wheel centerline. This is a cast steel not
iron peice and I welded it with a low hydrogen
rod on an old ac welder. I would have been scared
to do this except a friend got me to weld a set
of car spindles to a steel plate to make a utility
trailer dropped axle and after seeing what he put
it through I trusted it would work on the Comet.
This mod has been in use for about 4 years of
summer driving and "drive like you stole it"mentality
thrown at it with no problems. The reason for doing it
is that it translates into the same amount of lowering
the front of the car with no loss in wheel travel.
and the fact that the upper control arm mount has
also been lowered resets the front roll center and
even with 3 1/2 inch front wheels on mountian roads
the car corners decent. In the future I plan wider
wheels and tires on the front for better cornering.

After reading the page as posted I realized that I
need to say that cutting the spindle was done first
and the front geometry went for sh*t so don't just
cut the spindle!