ENGINE SPECS & STRATEGY

Build efficiency first, use the savings for the future mods.

2003 3.8L V6 Split-Port Engine

In 1999, Ford went crazy on the neglected 3.8L.Ford introduced a Yamaha/SHO style split-port intake manifold and combined the intake with a head utilizing 351/385/400 Cleveland architecture-the same used in the legendary Boss 302.Horsepower increased by 50 hp over the previous 3.8L, and torque rose to 225.The block was reinforced in key areas.In 2001, Intake Manifold Runner Control was introduced which increased torque production along with a new tune that bumped numbers to 193hp/245ft/lbs of torque (the spread between hp & tq points to the easy potential of the engine which was tuned primarily for MPG purposes).The main caps were strengthened in 2001,and the block was made stronger than the Forged ThunderbirdSC blocks of the early 90s.Ford also introduced a new crank alowing an easy swap of 4.2L cranks and more transmission choices.Sixers are pulling 600+hp from the new engines without worry of breakage-the same numbers of an OEM 5.0L. The engine weighs 300lbs.

A LOT of folks try to use the usual 5.0L tricks on the 3.8L, which is the wrong way to go until you swap cams. As a result, they lose a ton of HP/TQ, get frustrated and claim it can't make power.

That's totally false -the hp/tq numbers of 193/245 show the engine is seriously understressed. Making power with those numbers to start with means it will be easy to make a lot of power. If the car made 245hp/245tq, power production would be more of a challenge.

Here's a hint -1994-2004 3.8L Ford engines redline at 5400-5600RPM depending on the year. Nearly all horsepower is UNDER THE TORQUE CURVE . If you want to increase the HP numbers, unless you change the cam, focus on building TORQUE. Hp production lasts 175 - 375 RPM -that's a very short RPM in which to produce horsepower!

Mistake #1

Throw on a set of pipes that are too big for the car. The engine from the factory is set up for torque production. The redline depending on the year is 5400-5600RPM. The engine never makes the RPM/exhuast flow to use too free a flowing exhaust.

Mistake #2

Remove the cats. Removing the cats makes the engine run rich, and keeps the EGR engaged non-stop. The result is a dramatic loss of power and worse gas mileage on top of it.

Mistake #3

Buying novelty crap. Intake Spacers, Tornados, etc., The ONLY intake spacer that works is one that fits between the upper and lower intake. It works by increasing the volume in the plenum.

NEW! http://www.vapauto.com/windstarb.htm -Cut down Windstar intake available!

Mistake #4

Putting a heavy wheel/tire combination on the car, sapping torque, ruining the suspension/control, and knocking a second or more off the 1/4 mile times. Anything over 17" on a nearly stock engine will kill the performance of the car. They're just automotive codpieces.

Mistake #5

Modifying with a hp mindset. The crossover point between torque and horsepower is 5250 RPM, everything else is UNDER the torque curve. The 5600 Redline in the 01+ cars means you ONLY HAVE 350 RPM TO MAKE HP.

Mistake #6

Buying a Thunderbird/Cougar SC supercharger. Those engines when NEW 20 years ago only made 220hp. They needed the torque (315 ft/lbs) to move the car. The heads don't flow particularly well, and you can easily match the power with a cam swap in a 99+ engine. Furthermore, the Eaton M-90 requires a forged rotating assembly. By the time you get all the parts you need (computer, wiring harness, accessory drives, etc) including a new K-member (if you have a car newer than 1995), you could have gotten a centrigual SC unit and make 380+ hp and MORE torque.

If you have a pre-96 car, you'd be better off just buying an entire rebuilt SC engine for 1800 dollars, instead of being nickel and dimed to death finding parts for a car that will implode soon anyway.

If you have a 1996-1998 car, pick up a set on 1999-2000 heads & intake manifold(you can't use the 01+ because of the IMRC) for $150 and a street cam, and you're making as much power as you would with the Eaton. If you want step it up with a centrifugal supercharger down the road.

FOCUS ON THE TORQUE CURVE UNLESS AND UNTIL YOU CHANGE THE CAM HP is TOTALLY dependent upon torque in this engine until you change the top end -Cams, valvetrain, etc. Your best bet to make power until then is to focus on the intake -NOT THE EXHAUST.

DeMolet Densecharger

Best bang for the buck, largest diameter, no heat sink, no rust, and more flow than K&N for $50 less. 30 minute easy install. Sold the OEM intake system for $60.00. Total Cost $95.00 -Plus you pick up 2-3 MPG

Upper Intake Manifold

Before:

After:

Hand Filed, sanded & polishing, 5/8ths finished. You can see the split ports with a long runner for torque production and a short runner for horsepower production at wide open throttle.
The Yamaha/Ford Vulcan 3.0L from the SHO served as the basis for the intake. Bought for $50.00 including shipping.

A Spacer here will lengthen the runners and help build torque resulting in an easy 5-9 hp (depending on the size of the spacer) for around $100. 3rd on the bang for buck meter.

I'm ditching the Mustang intake at the end of the month for a cut/modified Windstar intake from VAPauto ( www.vapauto.com )

The following photo is another installation from VAP

Ford Split Port Heads
Nearly ready for Morana 5 angle port & polish -5-angle ported heads from Morana V6 Racing. Just got the heads, will send to Morana, once the chassis work is complete.

The 99+ 3.8/4.2L heads use Cleveland Head technology which is why the power output of the engine is so high when compared to the 5.0L style heads used on the 3.8L in the 80s and 90s. The increase with a conservative MPG tune was 33%. With IMRC, Torque increased by 11%. With a nominal 1:1 hp/tq (245hp/245tq) tune with cams, the engine output increase would be 63% uning the three technologies. Kenny Brown is on hiatus, although he is expected to return within the year, so I'm having to pick up all the parts I need while they're available. Engine work will have to wait until I can locate a Kenny Brown K-Member and an IRS.

Ford Split Port Lower Intake Manifold

- Ready for Porting. Bought for $40.00 including shipping

MotoBlue HO 42% Underdrive Pulley

Here's the old one:

Easy 14-17 hp 10+ ft.lbs. Increased MPG + good top-end power & longer accessory life. Big reduction in Rotational Mass. Pays for itself. Total Cost $156.00

Also pick-up another 2-3 MPG. More power + better MPG = win-win situation!

GMB High Performance Water Pump

- eliminates cavitation, and more efficient impeller frees horsepower.

NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Long lasting, great spark.

MSD 8.5MM Magnacore Wires

Low resistance, thinner wires for clearance, look great, and no radio interference.

If you look at the pic here, you can see the engine block is entirely behind the strut tower & brace. Also check out all the space along the sides and in front of the engine. Compare to the DOHC and SOHC 4.6L engines and you can understand why making the 3.8L handle well isn't that difficult. The weight is minimal, and it's carried well on the chassis.

Almost like it was made for the car (which it was). The chassis was called a Fox Body initially because it was intended as a Volkswagen Fox fighter.

Iraggi Alternator

200 Amp, recommended by several audio experts. At $220, it was a great price for a 200 AMP heavy duty alternator

The required wiring Upgrade: