I picked up this 1999 Camaro SS convertible a few days after totaling my 2001 Camaro convertible .



I lowered it with Bilstein HD shocks and Eibach Prokit springs.
The SS package came with a light weight 32mm hollow front sway bar and 22mm rear sway bar with poly bushings, but I put in Spohn solid chrome moly bars. Convertible chassis stiffened with BMR subframe connectors (welded). Also beefed-up and centered the rear with a Spohn double adjustable panhard bar (rod and poly ends), lower control arm relocation brackets and UMI adjustable poly/rod ended lower control arms. The ride is smooth, but handles firm. The relocation brackets give back more traction than was originally lost from lowering during launches, but sacrifices some of the roll understeer I was warming up to on tight corners.

Here's the Spohn 32mm chrome moly solid sway bar (red) sitting on the SS 32mm hollow sway bar. The solid bar is a bit stiffer, but also heavier.

Heres the Spohn double adjustable panhard bar sitting next to the stock panhard bar.
Rear suspension: lower control arms are now parallel to the ground.
slotted/cross-drilled rotors with Hawk HPS pads
RPO codes show a few options from the factory
WU8: SS Package
GU5: 3.23 axle ratio
QFK: 275/40/ZR17 tires
G80: Posi-traction (Zexel Torsen limited slip)

08/2007 stock 4L60E transmission gave out at 58k miles. had it rebuilt with a Z-Pak 3-4 clutch pack, beast shell, etc.
Also upgraded the torque converter to a custom Performabuilt 9.5" race unit with 2.5 STR, stall rated at 3600.

I descreened the MAF and threw on a lid with the SLP bellow. also got a ported throttle body and upgraded to 42lb injectors... probably bigger injectors than I needed (42lb rated at 43.5psi runs as 48lb in my 58psi fuel system).

The shock tower brace from my v6 camaro pictured is now out. I've since thrown in a spohn "pre-load adjustable" shock tower brace in black which looks a little better and... it does feel a little tighter when i toss it into the corners, but its a small difference. The air lid is the SLP optional SS blackwing lid I picked up. It works like any other aftermarket lid except that it looks/fits like OEM.

The Harris Speed Works nitrous kit from my v6 was also swapped in. I upgraded the nitrous solenoid, removed the stickers, then wrapped the rest in black plastic loom. It is a 150rwhp dry shot, using the Harris Speed Works Interface for fueling. Basically, the dry nozzle comes up under the bellow (bypassing the MAF unlike your typical dry setup), so if I've done a decent job, you shouldn't see any signs of a nitrous install unless you're looking for it.

The HSW Interface activates with the nitrous and feeds the MAF an altered signal which causes the PCM to CONSISTENTLY cut back timing and add the exact amount of fuel needed. It registers in the PCM as hitting airflow values I never reach off the bottle, so I can fine tune that area for nitrous and still have a nice, lean, spark advanced tune for NA use. I also use a NANO (nitrogen assisted nitrous oxide) push system to maintain bottle pressure at a CONSISTENT psi. No more need for a bottle heater and there is no pressure drop while spraying.

I log my nitrous runs with HPtuners to make sure all is running as it should. I think I put . Fuel pump is holding up (so far).
       

bottle's behind the seat, switches replace the ashtray.

Some interior stuff...
Momo Commando R steering wheel with Momo Automatic knob



The previous owner had a Flowmaster American Thunder catback system put in. I tossed that, went with a magnaflow, then went with a freer flowing Texas Speed Rumbler catback through SLP tips.

06/09: My stock headlights were starting to show their age, so I went with a set of projectors (Sonar brand) with a good sized projector housing (H1 bulb for low beam) and good cutoff/beam spread for use with an HID kit. I keep the halos and LEDs disconnected.
The HIDs are DDM 55watt 4500k drop-in kit with fully digital slim ballasts.

07/2009 better late than never...

a wideband AF gauge sitting in my vent  to make sure i don't melt pistons or lift ringlands.
the gauge hooks directly to the wideband o2 sensor and has an extra output wire for logging.
since my EGR is sitting in a box somewhere, i've got the output wire connected to the EGR position sensor wire (0-5v just like the wideband output). i basically just log the EGR position reported to the PCM and as you can see, the delay/accuracy is good enough.