Auto to five speed swap info:
I have many people ask if it was difficult to do this and how they should go about it. To me, it was well worth the back body drops under the dash (which was definately the hardest part of the swap)and the never ending neck pains. I would say buy a car already 5-speed equipped, but I got a deal I couldn't pass up on this car, so if you're like me and still wanna know how to DIY, read on. If you have a lift, it makes life a lot easier for the tranny work itself. This content was crossbred with content on the web and modified in my own words and experiences with my own car. But theres really no easy way out (Theres no easy way out...theres no short cut hoooome) when it comes to the work required under the dash. You have to get in there to swap out the pedal assembly as well as running the clutch cable and you better not have Hulk Hogan arms either. Actually, you really need to have quite small forearms and hands to do this with even a fraction of ease. I cut myself and had to remove a lot of parts just to get to what I needed to get to, and had countless busted knuckles. I did this swap 5 years ago with very little help, learning as I went. Point is, you need to do your research and figure out whats best for you parts wise. And don't be discouraged. You can do anything you wanna do. If you don't have a garage or immediate access to one, try becoming friends with a garage owner. Go in and talk to em cause you don't really have anything to lose. You can usually tell right away if the guy is gonna be cool, or if he's a moron, or just out to make a buck. Now onto the task at hand...I may forget some things. You can also Google this and I'm sure you'll find more. But since you're reading this, you want this to tell ya all about it, don't ya. Well, here ya go:

Parts Needed
-Borg Warner T-5 (stock) or World Class (a little stronger) Note: Tremec needs diff. bellhousing and clutch kit, also uses diff. shifter
-Shifter plate, boot, shifter
-Clutch cable
-Clutch kit with pressure plate and throw out bearing
-Flywheel
-Clutch quadrant (double or triple hook good)
-Clutch firewall adjuster
-Pedal assembly (make sure you get all the switches that go with this (neutral safety switch-actually not a necessity but good to have, and switch for backup lights-needed)

Tools Needed
-As always, air tools make life easy, but hand tools will do
-Basic ratchet and socket set
-Extensions and Universal (swivel) sockets
-Flat head screwdriver set
-Pry bar set
-Ball peen hammers
-Wrench set (box and open end)
-Needle nose pliers
-Clutch alignment tool (usually comes with clutch kits)
-Shop light or flash light
-Floor jack
-Creeper (or as we like to use, broken down boxes aka "West Virginia Creeper" lol)
-Someone to yell at
-A pretty girl to look at
-Plenty of band-aids and patience

The Ins and Outs
Note: Feel free to work on the pedal assembly first, either way is fine

Removal Of Automatic Transmission: 2-3 hours

1. Jack up the car
2. Remove driveshaft. Watch as all the fluid runs onto the floor, making a big mess. If you have a spare yoke that you can put in the tranny it will prevent the fluid leak
3. Disconnect the throttle valve cable and speedometer cable as well as any plugs that are connected to the tranny
4. Remove the tranny cooler lines (if app.)
5. Remove the inspection plate from the front of the tranny and remove the torque converter from the flex plate. You will need to rotate the engine to get to each bolt
6. Put a floorjack under the center of the tranny and remove the crossmember
7. Use a box end wrench to remove the bellhousing to engine bolts. You may find it easier to access the top bolts with a long extension
8. Remove the transmission. You will have to wiggle and pull back to get it to pop loose
9. Pull the tranny out from under the car. You may have to jack the car up even higher before it will slide out
10. Install inspection plate to keep converter in place

Shifter Removal: 20-30 min.

1. Remove the rubber boot that surrounds the automatic shifter
2. Remove the plastic shifter bezel. It will look like it's about to break and then the clips will let go and it will come loose
3. Unbolt the shifter base and unhook the cable
4. Remove the shifter. It will take some force but the base will finally slide through the console hole
5. Now you need to make room for the T5 shifter. You need to lengthen the front of the hole by about 1/2". I have found that cutting about a 1.5" by 1" slot in the back of the hole, directly in the center makes installation of the tranny much easier

Removal Of Pedal Assembly: 3-4 hours

1. The first step is the remove the driver's side seat and clear out the area so you can lay on your back for most of this procedure. Once that is complete you can begin the removal of the pedal assembly
2. Remove the plastic cover below the steering column and lower dash
3. Remove the hood release cable and bracket
4. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering column up
5. Lower the steering column. Unplug the wires as needed and try not to crack anything here, it is fragile
6. Remove the steering column. All you need to do is remove the bolt on the steering shaft under the hood. Once this is removed you can pull the column out of the car. I did this because it simplifies the removal of the pedal assembly, if you choose not to do this you will need to let the column lay beside/on top of you while you lay under the dash (not a real enjoyable experience). There is also a big brace that will give you fits when you try to put this back in. Remember the alignment and how you removed it. Try to stay calm and not curse that 'someone to yell at' listed in 'tools needed' section above too badly. Also remove fuse panel that was attached to the bracing. You can't remove this with the bracing so it needs to be taken off and you can put it up inside the inner dash area out of your way for now
7. Remove the 4 nuts from the brake booster. You will need to use a long extension to get to a few of the bolts
8. Remove the two nuts from the top of the pedal assembly
9. Remove the brake booster rod from the brake pedal. Make sure you know how to put it back together
10. Get out of the car and get under the hood. Grab the brake booster assembly and pull it forward as far as you can without crimping anything. You may need to put a screwdriver between the firewall and booster to hold it forward
11. Get back under dash and wiggle pedal assembly loose. There is no easy way to do this. You will just have to fight it until it comes out. Once you get the assembly loose you may find a few connectors or wires that you need to unplug to remove the pedal assembly
12. Try to remove the speedo cable from the back of the speedometer. You will need to use a pair of long 30 degree needle nose pliers to try to reach it from under the dash. If you can't get it loose from under the dash you will need to do the following:
- Remove the gauge cluster cover.
- Unplug the wires.
- Remove the gauge cluster. There is one plug on each side and the speedometer cable holding it back. Don't force the gauge cluster away from the dash too hard. If everything is removed, you shouldn't need to force it. Once you complete step 5 you can put the gauge cluster back together
13. Pull the speedo cable out from under the hood
14. Remove the rubber grommet that is in the hole the speedo cable went through
15. Install the grommet in place of the one approximately 2.5" left and 1" above the old hole. Install the speedo cable through this new hole
16. Run the speedo cable back to the speedo and hook it to the back of the speedometer

Installation Of Manual Pedal Assembly: 2-3 hours

1. Wiggle the pedal assembly into place. Make sure you slot out the holes in the brackets that go to the steering column bolts as well as slot the two middle holes and two of the steering column bolt holes, it will make it much easier to install the assembly
2. Remove the screwdriver between the firewall and brake booster. Install the 4 nuts that go on the brake booster bolts
3. Install the nuts on the top of the pedal assembly
4. Install the clutch cable in the hole the speedometer cable came out of. You will need to drill a small hole for the screw to hold the housing on the cable to the firewall
5. Locate the clutch neutral safety switch plug under the dash. It is located above and to the left (towards driver's side fender) of the clutch pedal. It will be taped up to the main harness. You can look at the plug on the clutch pedal to see what it is supposed to look like
6. Install the brake booster rod on the brake pedal
7. Install the clutch cable and hook it to the quadrant
8. Install the steering column and plug in all the wires. Make sure everything is plugged in, you don't want to take it back apart later
9. Install the hood release cable and bracket
10. Install the plastic cover below the steering column and lower dash. Now's the time to also work this bracing back into the correct alignment. If you don't your HVAC will be all outta whack. Also time to reinstall the fuse panel that was bolted up to the bracing. Now is a great time to vacuum your carpet. You don't have too many opportunities to get under the seat
11. Install the driver's seat

Installation Of Manual Transmission: 2-3 hours

1. Install the pilot bearing
2. Slide the starter index plate into place
3. Install the flywheel
4. Slide clutch disc into place and center it using a clutch alignment tool
5. Bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel
6. Install the throwout bearing on the tranny
7. Install the tranny/bellhousing assembly
8. Install the cross member
9. Change the Auto's neutral safety switch to a T5's reverse light switch. The Auto's wiring harness for this consists of 4 wires. In most cases, this section of wire can be replaced with a simple 2-wire T5 harness. The 2 wires go to the reverse light switch and the other 2 wires are connected with a jumper wire already on the harness. The colors are the same so it's easy to see what colors need to connect to what
10. Hook the clutch cable to the tranny
11. Install the speedometer gear in the tranny. You will need to grind down the "nipple" on the end of the gear to make it about 1/4" shorter. If you are using the 5 speed car's rear end as well then you can just use the manual trannies speedo gear
12. Fill the tranny with Dexron auto tranny fluid
13. Install the driveshaft
14. Install the shifter boot, handle, knob, and bezel

Some people prefer to "build it right the first time." That is, if you plan on adding a lot of power, go with a Tremec setup. That way you don't have to change it all up next time around. Plus, I know quite a few friends who have supercharged their rides and ended up goin through quite a few stock AND World Class T-5's. Also when it comes to buying clutch kits, I would advise against buying a used kit. I don't care how many miles the owner says they put on it. This is one of those parts you need to buy brand new. Buying a used shifter on the other hand, should be alright. Same goes for about all the other parts involved with this swap. Best of luck and have fun bangin the gears.

Page 1: Main
Page 3: The Shop
Page 4: Project Cars