This page is not to show case photos but to store data design to help the bimmer owners!
My keys stopped working remotely for my door locks/alarm. This is what I did!
Key Re-initialize process.
If a key fails to operate remotely, it will have to be re-initialized (all keys in sequence at the same time)
1. Get in and �close all doors�
2. Turn ignition on & off quickly (no more than 5 seconds) to start the process. When turning the ignition on & off it's not necessary to start the engine. The next action must take place within 30 seconds.
3. First key - hold down button #2 (unlock button) while pressing button #1 (lock button) three times. Release all buttons. All doors should lock and unlock on their own 1 time.
4. Immediately do the same thing with the other remote(s) within 30 seconds of the previous remote.
5. After all remotes have been done, turn the ignition on & off quickly again to finalize the process. When turning the ignition on & off it's not necessary to start the engine.
This process has to be done when you purchase a new key, the keys loose sync with the car, your battery dies in the remote, or when changing the remote battery and it takes longer than 10 seconds to do so.
I hope this helps. This information is in NO Way making me responsible for any errors, damages or screw ups. As with all second hand information, USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!
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E39 1996~2000 DATA LINK CONNECTOR
Pin Terminal # Terminal Description
1------ TD TD Signal
2------ - Not occupied
3------ - Not occupied
4------ - Not occupied
5------ - Not occupied
6------ - Not occupied
7------ SI Service Interval Reset
8------ - Not occupied
9------ - Not occupied
10----- - Not occupied
11----- - Not occupied
12----- 61 (D+) Generator Charge Indicator
13----- - Not occupied
14----- 30 Voltage; Hot At All Times
15----- RXD Diagnostic Data Link
16----- 15S Voltage Ignition Switch in Run
17----- - Not occupied
18----- PGSP Programming Line
19----- 31 Ground
20----- TXD Diagnostic Data Link
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M62 Oxygen Sensor Replacement
M62 Oxygen Sensor (O2 or Lambda is common) replacement
as performed on a 1998 BMW 540iA Sport
(by Kowached from the Roadfly E39 Forum)
Difficulty: Extremely Low
Time: Truly a 10 minute job per O2 sensor once the car is in the air.
Required tools: 22mm Closed end wrench, 10mm Nutdriver.
Required parts: A new Pre-Cat O2 Sensor, P/N: 11.78-1 247 406 or Post-Cat P/N: 11.78-1 742 051.
1. Raise the front end of the car on ramps (or use a jack) taking all appropriate safety precautions (wheel chocks/jackstands). Take a look under the car, about mid-front door. And look for a little black box that has 3 wires going in/out of it. Using a 10mm nutdriver, unscrew the nuts at both ends of the box.
2. Disconnect the wire that goes to the Pre-Catalytic Converter Oxygen Sensor (or which ever one you are replacing, there are 4 total on the 540i, 2 Pre-Cat, and 2 Post-Cat), it just pulls apart with no special tools. Now place the end of the wire that goes to the disconnect O2 sensor through the closed end of your 22mm wrench and run it all the way down to the seat of the O2 sensor nut and unscrew it.
3. Screw the new O2 sensor in and tighten it with the 22mm closed end wrench.
4. Reconnect the new O2 sensor to the vehicle wiring harness
5. Snap the connectors back into the black box and re-attach the box to the car with the 10mm nuts.
If you have a Peake R5/FCX scan tool **CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE A PEAKE SCAN TOOL**, now would be a good time to reset the check engine light. The Peake was also used to initially diagnose the problem and identify the passenger side Pre-Cat O2 Sensor as the failed component.
Note: BMW recommends O2 sensors be replaced every 100k miles. A sign that yours are failing is reduced fuel economy and poor idle.
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Service Indicator Reset
1. Remove diagnostic cap
2. Turn ignition switch to position "2"
3. Insert jumper wire (do at your own risk, good idea to have a low amperage fuse in-line with the jumper wire. BE VERY CERTAIN you are jumping the right sockets. I will not be held responsible for any fried electronics if this is not done properly! A photo of the sockets and their numbers are marked below.)
4. Wait 4 seconds for an oil light reset, wait 10 seconds for service light reset
5. Remove jumper wire and put the diagnostic cover back on
6. Turn ignition off & turn the ignition on again to see if the reset "took".
(Note: jumping pins 11 & 14 works as a remote starter, comes in handy when adjusting the valves.)
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E39 Aspheric (Wide-Angle) Mirrors Install/Exchange:
NOTE: Perform these steps at your own risk. All P/N's listed are a "best guess", so please double-check with your local dealer. These mods and repairs were performed on my US-spec 1997 540iA (11/96 prod date, M62 engine) but there is no guarantee they will work on other E39's.
The inboard 3/4 of the aspheric mirror is straight glass and the outboard 1/4 is convex to peer into the blind spot. These are direct replacements for the OEM mirrors and they are heated. You can installed BMW Euro aspheric mirrors on both sides to reduce the blind spot created by the large B and C-pillars.
The supplied BMW instructions are detailed, so please read them carefully for supplemental information.
Required Parts:
Purchase one or two of the following (fits both sides):
P/N 51 16 8 119 724 Aspheric mirror glass [pre-9/97] (pictured Below)
P/N 51 16 8 250 438 Aspheric mirror glass [9/97+]
Required Tools:
Popsicle stick or wooden spoon
Towel for padding
1. Carefully pop out the old mirror and unplug the 2 heating element wires (see arrows). The basic procedure is to angle the mirror into the upper inside corner, and while maintaining pressure, use a safe prying tool (popsicle stick or wood spoon) to pry the opposite corner outwards. Wrap the tool with a t-shirt or towel for protection.
2. Plug the heating wires into the new mirror (I'm not sure if polarity matters). Line up the clips on the back of the mirror with the lugs on the motor assembly, and carefully press inwards till it snaps into place.
It takes some time to get used to the different perspective, but you'll probably enjoy it!
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