Check out my caption below mark july 2007

WHen I bought this car I pretty much bought it because it seemed like a unique car because it was all options but had a hard top, And I thought it would make a fun car to drive and have fun in. Well Now that I've gotten into it I realize that the idiot that sold me the car was a total scam artist.. The car is fun and I dont regret buying it but the dealer told me that it was original paint, and when inquiring with the former owner he told me the car was always garaged he never drove it in the snow, but it was a daily driver other wise so it had been driven in the rain. No big deal I thought. 2 Years after having it and keeping it well waxed and out of the rain and snow the clear coat started peeling at a rididculous rate. A week after the peeling atarted I got so pissed I took a sanding block and started going to town. Got through the paint to gray primer then to another layer of red paint THE STOCK PAINT. Turns out the dealer whos a total A$$ had a 2 year Maaco paintjob done right before selling it to me. Now I wouldnt have been bothered much by this but I also wouldnt have tried to keep the paint in good condition for 2 years. So Ive done alot of work but visually the car looks bye far worst than it did when I bought it but in reality its a much more solid car. I've been doing it right Build a solid car then worry about the cosmetics

New July 2007 Answer-

Everyone has asked me why I went with the MSD 6A and not the adjustable 6AL which has removable soft touch rev limiting modules. This is why I dont use the 6AL

Engines that sustain the most damage from over reving are for the most part very high horsepower. My car will never be a record setting racer. Next Most people I know have not even dynoed there cars yet so how then do they know they have even used a module that is either far too soon and not even allow the car to reach its maximum hspwr building speed. But this is funny 95% of everyone who I have met that used the 6AL have a rev module at a speed that there engine isnt even capable of reaching. Examnple I most recently met a guy at a car show with a pretty nice but mostly stock 1997 SS camaro. He had a retard module of 8500 RPMs. The LT1 will never reach anything close to that kind of engine speed even if it was built nicely let alone mostly stock... That why for me the MSD 6A is just fine for what I'm, using it for.

This pics is with the plenum removed.

More pics on the Way Its just there because I needed a pic. My cars is a 1986 WS6 TA.

I'm willing to bet that there isnt any more people out there that have this much devotion to there car................
Pics are still on the way. These are my mods so far

Castrol Syntech
Eibach Sportline Lowering springs (1.75" Drop)
Koni Adjustable Shocks
T-Byrne Motorsports Rear Trailing Arms
TEC STR-8 Cold Air box relocation
Backing of stock hood Vent Removed Making it a true Ramair
K&N Filter
MAF Screens Removed
Accel Extended Throttle body foil
MAC Performance Y-pipe 3" collector
Dynomax Super converter 3"
Edelbrock Catback 3"
Jethot Sterling Coating on Catback and Tailpipes
Edelbrock RPM Series Muffler
Poly-Eurethane swaybar bushing front & rear
Poly-Eurethane Tranny Mount
Poly-Eurethane Torque Arm Bushing
Bosch platinum +4 Spark plugs
MSD 6A Ignition Intesifier Box
All HEI parts Replaced with MSD Components incl' cap and rotor
Taylor Ignition 308 series 10.5mm race ignition Wires
Hypertech Stage 3 Computer Chip
Hypertech 160* Thermostat
Hypertech cold fan switch (177*on166*off)
TCI Shift Kit

NEW MARCH 2007
Alot of people have asked me what modifications I noticed a difference with as I did them. So heres a realistic no bull answer. I noticed a kick with the TEC STR8 cold air box relocation, but mostly noticable after I removed the back of the stock hood vents then the real kick in the pants was noticable

I didnt notice anything from any of the MSD ignition or components but I definitly noticed the difference when I put the 10.5mm wires on the car. I changed all of the other ignition components first so I'm sure that the crappy 7.5mm wires was the weak link and when I finnally did the wires I was able to feel the benifit of all the ignition components.

Finnaly the catlytic converter & cat back. Prior to the dyno max cat I had hollowed out the stock catand my muffler had a giant gapping hole in it and had a stock extension pipe. I did both the cat and catback in one shot and ultimatly this was the one modification that I actually put the car in drive, and the next thing that I said was WOW! I instantly noticed the torque gain. This was the one modification that I have ever been truely impressed with the noticable gains just from putting the car in drive. Hope this helps anyone looking to do mods