95 LT-X CORVETTE / A4 / 3088 LBS (100% SELF-BUILT)..........PERFORMANCE MODS:.... Lloyd Elliott "Fully Ported" LE-2 Aluminum Heads (Casting#10207643).... Billet Steel Hydraulic Roller-Cam (Custom "Nitrous Grind" with "VERY MILD" Specs, Only in the Mid 220's @ 50 / 112 LSA / & under .600 lift).... Lloyd Elliott "Fully Ported" LT-X Intake Manifold (W/TPIS Billet Aluminum Block-Off Plates for the EGR Valve, & Air Cross-Over Tube Location's).... Comp Cams 1.6 Ratio 7/16 Pro-Magnum Roller Rockers (NSA Type / IE: NON-Self Aligning).... GM Hardened Guide-Plates.... Comp Cams #26918 Beehive Springs.... Comp Cams Beehive Retainers.... Comp Cams 10 Degree Super-Locks.... Viton Valve Seals.... Ferrea Stainless Steel Race Valves.... Five-Angle Performance Valve-Job W/Back-Cut Exhaust Valves.... Comp Cams "High-Tech" Push Rods (7.2 Length / 80 thou Min wall thickness).... Impala 29 thousandths "Compressed Thickness" Head-Gaskets.... ARP Head Bolts & Washers.... ARP 7/16 PRO-Series Rocker Studs.... ARP Harmonic Damper Bolt.... GM "Extreme Duty" Roller Timing Chain Set W/Hardened Sprockets & Water Pump Gear.... 30LB Ford SVO Injectors (Matched Set).... LT4 Knock Module (In PCM).... Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat.... Manual Fan Switch.... De-Screened MAF Meter.... Breathless Performance Vortex Ram-Air Intake System.... Smooth Silicone Air Intake Coupler Tubes (Front & Rear of MAF Meter).... Arizona Speed & Marine 58MM Billet Throttle-Body.......................EXHAUST SYSTEM:.... TPIS Brand Long Tube Race Headers (1 3/4 inch Primary Tube's W/ 3 inch Collectors / Jet-Hot Brand Ceramic Coating Inside & Out).... Magnaflow Part #16837 Complete 3 inch Diameter Stainless Steel True-Dual Exhaust System.... SYSTEM CONSISTS OF: Magnaflow 3 inch "Tru-X-Pipe".... Magnaflow 3 inch (dual in / dual out) "Strait-Thru" Center Resonator.... Magnaflow 3 inch "Strait-Thru" Mirror Polished Stainless Steel Mufflers W/ 4 inch Diameter Polished SS Dual Tips (On Each Muffler).... EVERYTHING in the system is Constructed from 300 & 400 Series Stainless Steel W/CNC Robotic Welds.....................DRIVETRAIN:.... Custom Race Prepped ZR-1 "Super Dana 44" Rear-End W/Spicer 3.45 Ratio Cryo Treated Gears.... ZR-1 Rear-End Bat Wing Cover W/ Heavy Duty Urethane Bushings.... Spicer U-Joints (Heavy Duty "NON"-Zerk Grease Fitting Units).... ZR-1 Manual Transmission Aluminum Driveshaft.... ZR-1 Manual Transmission Aluminum Torque Brace.... (IRS) Half-Shaft Safety Loops (Right & Left).... Drive-Shaft Safety Loop (Main Center Shaft) .... Custom Built Edge Racing 3000 RPM (9.5in / 2.45 STR / Multi-Disc) Nitrous Stall Converter W/Anti-Balloon Plate.... Pro-Built Transmissions 4L60E W/Trans-Go Shift-kit ("Modified Version kit" Set up by Dana, the owner of Pro-Built Transmissions).... DRIVETRAIN PARTS, NOT YET INSTALLED (Here) >>>> Denny's "Nitrous Ready" IRS Half-Shafts.... QA1 Anodized Aluminum Adjustable Shocks (Front & Rear)....................PCM TUNING:.... Current tune performed by (Myself) & Bryan Herter at WWW.PCMFORLESS.COM ................... IGNITION EQUIPMENT:.... MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition W/Adjustable Timing Retard, Start Retard, Two Step Rev-limiter, and MAX RPM Rev-limiter.... MSD In-Line (Surge/Noise) Ignition Capacitor.... MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires.... MSD GM Blaster Coil.... Optima Red-Top Battery............NITROUS SYSTEM & EQUIPMENT:.... The system started out originally as a "Nitrous Oxide Systems" (IE: NOS)... (Which by the way, is Pronounced N---OH---S , "NOT" NOS, as if that's a word of some kind, LOL.... Sorry, I couldn't resist) Part # 5174 "DRY" Nitrous Kit that was "specifically" designed for the LT-X Corvettes.... I ran that set-up successfully for several years, but have since converted it over to a "WET" system, which is now a mix of varying brand components (of higher quality, IMO)....... Nitrous Express NX Lightning Series Nitrous & Fuel Solenoids (Carbon Fiber Cases & CNC Machined / Anodized Aluminum Bases).... NX "Shark" Fogger Nozzle.... NX CNC Machined Jets.... NOS Brand #15764 "Secondary" In-line "Push Style" Fuel Pump W/Fuel By-Pass For When the Pump is Not In Use.... NOS Bottle Heater W/Temperature Activated Thermostat.... NOS (EFI High Pressure) Fuel Pressure Safety Switch (IE: Hobbs Switch).... NOS Bottle "Safety Burst" Blow-Down Kit (With 8-AN Braided Soft-Line Exiting Car).... NOS Hi-Flow Billet Aluminum In-line Nitrous Filter.... NOS 1500psi Bottle Pressure Gauge.... VDO 100psi Fuel Pressure Gauge.... Harris Speed Works Nitrous Purge Kit........... SPARK PLUGS:.... I've pretty much tried 'em all, but I prefer the Autolite #103 Spark Plugs, (Gap set @ .35 thou).... PS: I Self-Prep the Ground Straps on ANY plugs that are being used with Nitrous for greater detonation-resistance (IE: Rounded Edges on plug ground-straps) ............... WHEELS & TIRES:.... Street Wheels: Custom ZR-1 A-Mold Wheels, Bright Silver Metallic Powder-Coated & Cleared, W/Polished Outer Lips (17 X 10 Fronts & 17 X 11.5 Rears, W/Grandsport Corvette Offset).... C4 Corvette Emblem Centercaps.... Locking lug-nuts W/Chrome Lug Covers.... Street Tires: Sumitomo 275/40/ZR17 Fronts, and 315/35/ZR17 Rears.... Track Tires: Mickey Thompson E.T. Street Drag Radials 315/35/17's............ BRAKES:.... BAER Brake Rotors (Cross-Drilled & Slotted, Zinc Washed & Cryo Treated) 13inch Fronts and 12inch Rears.... Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon Hi-Performance Brake Pads.... BRAKE PARTS, NOT YET INSTALLED (Here) >>>> Doug Rippie (DRM) Master-Cylinder Brake Bias Spring.... Earl's Brand Teflon & Stainless Steel Braided Brake-Lines............... INTERIOR & EXTERIOR MODS:.... Auto-Meter 3 3/4 inch Pro-Comp Memory Recall Tachometer.... Genuine Carbon Fiber Dash & Interior Kit.... (Front & Rear) Adjustable Lowering Kit.... "Ultra-Lite" (Complete Acrylic Housing and Lens) High-Intensity Headlights.... Custom Black Suede Headliner.... A1C Brand Fire Extinguisher (Black Chrome Finish).... C4 Corvette Emblem Embroidered Floor Mats.... C4 Corvette Emblem Embroidered Leather Center Console Cushion.... Titanium Window Tint.... Carbon Fiber Weave Front Mini-Bra.... 3M Metallic Silver Grandsport Fender Hash Decals.... 3M Metallic Silver (C4 CORVETTE FONT) Windshield Decal.... 3M Metallic Silver, C6 Corvette Racing Program "Punisher" Decal (on lower rear-hatch glass).... Chrome "CORVETTE" Letter "Inserts" For Rear Bumper.... 96 Collectors Edition C4 Corvette "Side-Hood" Emblems.... Custom Aerospace Molded Carbon Fiber License Plate Frame............... RADAR/LASER EQUIPMENT:.... ESCORT PASSPORT 9500 IX "Blue Display" GPS Speed-Camera Radar Detector, Paired W/The ESCORT PASSPORT ZR-4 Laser Shifters that are Installed "In-Car" (Car is 100% Radar/Laser Immune).... The Cops Absolutely Love it, LOL......................TRACK TIMES:.... (The Track Times listed below were with the "PREVIOUS" 100% Untouched ,Bone Stock Factory Bottom-End).... BEST NATURALLY ASPIRATED PASS WAS : >>>> 11.39 @ 120.8 MPH........BEST (125-135 shot) NITROUS PASS WAS: >>>> 10.72 @ 130.6..... All track passes were made with Mickey Thompson "ET Street" Drag Radials (315/35/17s), and the Front Sway-Bar Removed from car...................... LATEST ENGINE(and track times below):............... Well, I finally finished putting together a "Fully Forged" 388ci Bottom-End.... All of the Engine parts were Selected & Blueprinted with a lot of the focus being it's ability to reliably handle "Quite a Bit" more nitrous than I was previously spraying on the stock lower-end (Most of the time I pretty much stuck with 125-135 RWHP shots on the stock lower-end (which was always 100% trouble-free at those settings since putting the first nitrous kit on the car back in August of 1998, if you can imagine that.. LOL).... The new forged Bottom-End is set-up to handle 200 + RWHP shots...... THE "NEW" BOTTOM-END PARTS LIST & MACHINE WORK ARE AS FOLLOWS:.... BRAND NEW (Lucky Find NOS) LT-X Iron Block.... CNC Bored & Honed W/Torque Plates.... Block Clearanced for Additional Stroke.... Line Honed & Tapped for the 4 Bolt "Splayed" Billet Main Caps Installation.... Block Zero Decked (IE: Piston tops are "exactly" even with the blocks deck surface).... Cometic MLS Head-Gaskets.... Quench Distance Set at 39 thousanths.... JE Custom Forged Nitrous Pistons (Thermal-Coated Crowns, & Anti-Friction Coated Skirts).... JE "Plasma Moly" File Fit Rings (Gaped as recomended by JE for "250 Plus RWHP" Nitrous Shots).... Callies/Compstar Forged H-Beam Rods.... Callies Dragonslayer 4340 Non-Twist Forged Steel Crankshaft.... Callies Billet "Splayed" 4-Bolt Main Caps (On 2,3,4).... Rotating Assembly Neutral Balanced "BOTH" Front & Rear.... ARP Pro-Series Main-Studs.... Milidon Studs For Windage Trey Bolt Locations.... Dura-Bond Anti-Friction Coated Cam Bearings.... ACL H-Series Anti-Friction Coated Main & Rod Bearings.... Block Tapped for Screw-In Oil Galley Plugs.... Pioneer Brass Freeze Plugs.... ATI Super-Damper LT-X Corvette Harmonic Balancer.... ATI(SFI) Approved Neutral Balance Flexplate......................TRACK TIMES WITH THE "NEW" COMBO: MY MOST RECENT TRACK DAY FEB/2009: After running a bunch of Naturally Aspirated passes (and always letting off just after the 1/8th mile marker, as to try and not get kicked out right away), I made one final pass for the day with the newest Engine & Nitrous system set-up.... With a few gallons of some Rocket Brand 118 Octane dumped into the few gallons of 93 octane pump gas that was already in the tank.... I sprayed a 220ish RWHP shot (which I previously had tuned in pretty good on the street).... Spinning in first gear yielding a "nothing special" 1.58 60 FT time, It still went right into the high 9's on the very first pass, at just over 137 MPH.... and just as quickly... before I even got back to the pits, I was greeted by a track tech and red-flagged for the day, LOL..... (As of late '09) I'm still in the process of finding some free time (and some extra cash ,LOL) to get a "nicely done" regulation (8.50 Index Rating) molly cage in the car so that I can really tune things in right (and as safely as possible)......Thanks a lot for looking , and rating my car......... Joe ..........PS: Any questions.... don't hesitate to ask.... I've been building engines , and setting up street/strip cars like this (and MUCH MUCH faster) for "well over" 20 years now (since I was 16), and I'm always happy to help out other car guys, or atleast point them in the right direction on something, since (IME) there's a tremendous amount of MIS-Information out there,"ESPECIALLY" on some the popular Internet forums.
Above: "Old" Stock Bottom-End Engine Picture. ("NEW" Engine pictures are on page 9)
www.SuperiorDash.com >>>> Link text... 18 Piece "Genuine" Carbon Fiber Dash & Interior kit.... XM Satellite Radio.... NOS C4 Corvette Ashtrey Cover Switch Plate: The Top Switch on the plate is to "Arm" the System(not activate it) "AND" to turn on the NOS Secondary In-line Fuel Pump.... And the bottom switch turns on the Bottle Heater.
TACHOMETER: Autometer 3 3/4 inch Pro-Comp (Memory Recall Function) Tachometer >>>> Link text was installed directly In front of the useless low RPM factory Tach.... The Memory Recall Tach's are worth their weight in gold when it comes to setting up your PCM controlled shiftpoints.... Also, a good highend tach nearly always shows just how "inaccurate" your factory tach was(my factory tach was nearly 400 RPM's off at redline)... Nice huh.
"Old" Engine after a detail job.
Below: A few older pictures from '06
BLACK SUEDE HEADLINER MATERIAL KIT: (The "Best of the Best" Material kit available...Pre-sized for use on the C4 CORVETTE'S removable Targa top..UV Treated NON-Fade Material / Ideal Material Thickness & Stretchability>>>CLICK THE LINK BELOW to read more about it, (and/or) Purchase if you would like...PS: we have sold well over 500 of these "EXACT" auctions during the last several years, "ALL" with great feedback >>> ALSO: Check out my other Corvette items on Ebay as well while your there... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220471774770&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT PS: If the item in the link is sold (since we sell a lot of these), just click on my "other" items for sale on Ebay.
MINI-BRA: Carbon Fiber weave mini-bra just installed.... the love bugs are pretty bad down here in the summer, lol.
NITROUS EQUIPMENT: NOS Newest Style (Electric Blue Color) 10LB Bottle W/Super Hi-Flow Valve.... NOS Bottle Heater (thermostat controlled).... NOS 1500 PSI Bottle Pressure Gauge.... 8AN Braided Safety Blowdown Tube (exiting cars cabin thru the "compartment" behind the passenger side seat).
NITROUS EQUIPMENT CONT: Harris Speedworks Purge Kit >>>>Link text.... NOS Billet Aluminum Nitrous Filter.... (Cheap Insurance Here) An "Extra" Nitrous Solenoid Gets Installed on "ALL" of my (single fogger) Nitrous Set-Up's.... Using Two Nitrous Solenoids (in a row) can save you a tremendous amount of trouble and expense if one ever decides to stick open (which their not supposed to do ofcourse), but I've seen it happen several times over the years, and with some of the biggest brand name, most expensive solenoids also.
....(Right Picture) "PREVIOUS"(Now using a NX shark nozzle in same location) NOS Soft-Plume Fogger Nozzle tapped into the aluminum MAF meter housing. (NOT spraying "into" MAF meter resistors).
VDO 100 PSI Fuel Pressure Gauge:.... NOS Brand FPSS (IE: Fuel Pressure Safety Switch) for High Pressure EFI nitrous systems.... For those unfamiliar with nitrous fail safe equipment, A (FPSS) will "NOT" let the nitrous solenoids work (IE: open) "IF" the engines fuel pressure drops to an unsafe (PRE-set) level at "ANY" time.
.... (Right Picture) NOS Electronic Wide-Open Throttle Switch For Nitrous Activation. (works thru the factory TPS voltage, "NOT" letting the nitrous system operate unless the gas pedal is "floored" 100%).
ROCKER GEOMETRY & PUSHROD LENGTH CHECKING METHOD: "Click">>>>>Link text
ROCKER GEOMETRY CONT:.... "ALWAYS" (With the correct method) Check your rocker geometry to find out "EXACTLY" what pushrod length your particular engine combo needs to attain the "correct" rocker geometry. (Never just throw your stock length pushrods in there, or take someones word for it on the legnth that you'll need for a particular engine combo).... Many variables such as Headgasket thickness, Clinder Head deck thickness, Engine Block deck height, Head surfacing, Rocker Brand & Design, Lifter Design, Valve stem length, Cam base circle size....Ect....Ect....Ect.... can ("and will") affect your rocker geometry, and your engines required pushrod length.... Also, don't skimp on a set of pushrods for your engine (Buy the best you can afford) The Comp-Cam "HI-TECH'S" are a good, "and still affordable" choice."Click" >>>>Link text
LIFTER PRE-LOAD SETTINGS:.......We'll, After "ALOT" of experimenting with just about "every" possible lifter pre-load setting on earth trying to attain the best possible performance out of my set-up (Examples of trials: 1 full turn preload after zero lash.... 3/4's turn preload after zero lash.... 1/2 turn preload after zero lash....1/4 turn preload after zero lash.... 1/8th turn preload after zero lash)...... I have "definitely" found that simply setting them "ALL" at TRUE ZERO LASH , and then locking the polly lock normally ,(which takes Aprox 1/16th of a turn to lock it the way I personally do it), yields the best dyno "and" track numbers, without question..........Having such a minuscule amount (basically nothing) of lifter plunger pre-load, means that the lifters CAN NOT pump-up their internal plungers at high RPM, since they are obviously already extended all the way up.... This lifter plunger pump-up, is a VERY VERY (did I say VERY, lol) common occurrence for hydraulic roller lifters being used in a performance application... "Especially" with the addition of higher valve-spring pressures, and when your spinning the engine to a higher RPM than it was in the factory trim...... To the extent that this lifter plunger pump-up happens, depends heavily on MANY variables: Such as the engine in questions "specific" architecture, RPM level, Cam lobe design, Valve-spring pressure (and design), and Valve-train component weights..... But when this does happen, the big issue is that the valves are getting held-off of their seats when they should be completely closed trapping cylinder pressure (as per the cams base-circle & profile), and then a ton of compression (IE:power) goes right past the valves.....When this is happening "even just moderately" , I've literally (no exaggeration) seen power drops approaching 100 horsepower on the stand-alone engine dyno..... Another VERY common issue with the Hydraulic lifters (other than the aformentioned pump-up problem), is that the lifters plunger can also be compressed down, which will obviously kill-off power as well, since the cams exact profile WILL NOT be properly or accurately transfered to the valves..... As many hotrodders of the past have experimented with on their "higher than stock RPM" Hydraulic lifter performance engines.... I have found that by simply stepping up a little in oil-viscosity, has corrected much (if not all) of the lifter plunger compression that was going on with the OEM type lifters on my specific set-up..... FOR EXAMPLE: Instead of using the factory Mobil 1 5W 30 weight synthetic oil, year round... I now use 15W 50 weight Mobil 1 synthetic year round.... Believe it or not, the thicker oil-viscosity change was something that I could Immediately feel when revving above 5500 RPM's (and could easily be seen on the dyno in back to back pulls)............So my hydraulic lifters were not only having High-RPM issues with lifter pump-up....But also with High-RPM lifter plunger compression.....JEEZ...what a pain in the ass, LOL........ Also Now a days, there are some higher quality internal Hydraulic roller lifters that were designed specifically to help address these exact issues.... The newly designed (lighter internal parts) GM LS7 lifters are another option to try.... and I've seen people have really good results with the Morrell hydraulic roller lifters (if you don't mind their $500 plus dollar price tag)......and also Comp & Lunati just introduced some real trick sets of hydraulic roller lifters that can supposedly take a ton of RPM without ANY longevity, pump-up issues, or plunger compression issues.... IME, Still NOTHING will ever work, or transfer the cams exact profile to the valves like a good solid lifter set-up.
Composite Valve Covers / Clearanced for Comp Pro-Magnum Roller Rockers (A Dremel with a small cut-off disk works well for this)
CORVETTE Letter Inserts (chrome)
Aerospace Custom Molded Carbon Fiber Licence Plate Frame
Cam Degreeing: "Click">>>>>Link text... IMO, Doing this "in car" (on a Corvette) isn't very fun at all.... but the alternative is not having a single clue where your Cams recommended (IE: intended by design) installed centerline is.... And on these cars, it's even more important than most.... For every degree your cam timing is off.... your Opti-Spark controlled ignition timing will be off "DOUBLE".... Now consider the common occurrence of degreeing the cam , and it being off somewhere between 3 - 7 Degree's, (or even more), it's much more common that you can imagine.... yup, not only an engine with horrible cam timing, but also an engine with ignition timing that's retarded or advanced 14 degree's (or even more).... Think it'll ever run good, LOL.... It's stuff like this that's responsible for many a crappy running car out there.... Cars that, "for their mods" run nowhere near how they should (we "ALL" know cars like these).
OPTI-SPARK DISTRIBUTOR TIP'S: If your doing a factory type optispark on your car... NEVER, JUST SLAP IT ON... spend the extra few minutes and remove the cap and the rotor inside... Clean the rotor bolt threads (BOTH the male and female threads) with some Aerosol type brake parts cleaner or something similar to get ALL of the oil off... Then RED (High-Strength) loctite your two rotor bolts back in place.... then take a tube of silicone RTV (IE: Permatex sensor safe silicone RTV works good) and run a nice bead sealing "EVERY" possible seam where the Opti-spark unit comes together.... Don't trust the Opti-Sparks internal gaskets to do this adequately enough for the life of the unit.... ALSO, seal very thoroughly with the Silicone RTV around the electrical harness plug "on the top of the Optispark unit" right after you plug it in..... I know these PRE-installation suggestions here seem simple enough, but honestly... 90% of "ALL" the PRE-mature problem issues associated with the Opti-spark units are from when the rotors very commonly vibrate loose (tearing up the inside of the unit)... and/or when water gains entry inside of the unit (this happens "very easily" if their not sealed really well)..... I've been sealing Opti's like this on LT-1's & LT-4's for over a decade now, and have yet to have a premature issue with any of them......Also, something I feel worth mentioning to the LT-X guys out there (Like Myself).... at this point in time (Dec 2008), I would still resist the urge to drop $500 plus dollars on the MSD Opti-spark unit...As nice as they look, MANY are still absolutely riddled with problems...Just, as is the case with many "Newer" products released, they just don't have all of the bugs out of them yet.... I can't even tell you how many of these "flat out failed" and/or failing" MSD Opti's I've pulled out of peoples cars for them, only to switch them back to a Genuine AC/Delco Opti-spark unit (prepped as mentioned earlier) without a single future issue.
RAM-AIR INTAKE SYSTEM: Breathless Performance Vortex Ram-Air Intake Installation Pictures......As far as Cold Air Induction Kits go for these Vette's, I've pretty much tried them ALL over the years (BOTH at the dragstrip "and" the Dyno).... I'm not gonna name actual brand names of which ones I tried that aren't worth a crap, (But I probably should, LOL).... But I will say very bluntly, for a Proven "trial & errored" FACT.... That "UNLESS" the Ram-Air or Cold-Air Intake System your wanting to use is of a functional design (Similar to this system) that receives, Cool... Constant... Pressurized Air from "OUTSIDE" of the vehicle (IE: "OUTSIDE" of the HOT engine compartment) then don't even consider wasting your hard earned money on it .....Some of the common "and expensive" CAI systems out there for the C4 Corvettes look pretty with their cute little "tripple" style filters, but in actuality they suck the "same exact" stagnant Hot air as the lousy factory unit does (and in the "same exact" Horrible "Blocked-In" location).... and even worse, some are even made out of thick metal, which (after driving for a while) retains heat on these cars like no tomorrow, and actually passes "some" of it on to the passing air flow .... This is just the "exact opposite" of what any good CAI, or Ram-Air intake system should be made out of, or doing).... So, the long and short of it is... if your gonna have a CAI system that exhibits it's effect in those NON-Improving, Undesirable ways (which litterally 99% of them available for these year cars do) , you'd honestly be MUCH better off saving your money, and simply sticking with the Factory ABS plastic set-up, putting a K&N air-filter in it, and trimming the top of the louvered factory metal Air cleaner lid off yourself with some tin-snips, or a dremel tool with a cutoff disk on it (IE: the commonly performed "cut-lid" mod).
Radiator Shroud Right After It was Dremeled Out and the Edges were sanded with (Med) 150 Grit sand paper.
Air Filters Internal Velocity Stack to help "further" straighten the airflow.
A few shots from "under" the front clip of the car.
This Ram-Air kit, combined with using "solid" (NON-accordian type) air-intake coupler tubes , like I'm using on my car "fore & aft" of the MAF meter (reguardless of making perfect adjustments), has a tendency to not give you a "perfect" air-tight seal where the cone filter's base seals against the clear air-box itself (Because of engine torque, (IE: movement) pulling on the Air-filter in relation to the "fixed position" clear air-box).... So if you get this type of system, take some high quality adhesive backed soft rubber weatherstripping and seal this area. (which was later done on mine "after" these pictures were taken).
Black Ceramic Coated Intake Manifold (after all porting work was done).... Cross Drilled & Slotted Rotors (Zinc Washed & Cryo Treated).... Hawk HPS Ferro-Carbon Performance Brake Pads (Front & Rear).
