IHI TD04L Turbo Upgrade (Subaru WRX)
ACT Pressure Plate
ACT 6 Puck racing disk
Custom Manifold
Custom Downpipe 2-1/2"
Custom Cat Back Exhaust System 2-1/2"
Custom Machined Head (Port and Polish)
Accel Plug Leads 8.8mm
Starion Front Mount Intercooler
Custom Intercooler Piping
Turbo Smart Blow Off Valve
Greddy Profec E01 Boost Controller
Greddy BCC
Greddy E-Manage.
Innovate Wideband Sensor
Glanza V Turbo Radiator Fan
330 GTX Low Impedence Injectors
Autometer Boost Gauge
Autometer AF Gauge
VDO Oil Pressure Gauge
VDO Volt Meter Gauge
Relocated Battery Box
Exide Orbital Deep Cylce Racing Battery (985 MCA)

Firstly, id like to give mad props to meh mechanic Lester Martin who has stuck thru this project and my undecideness at times to the fullest. He has takn pride in this work and always looks at the well being of the car. This is no longer a project. It has become an obsession. We keep reading new things and finding out new ways and it is definitely paying off becuase we are near the end.

This is Kani, my little prince, loves race cars to death but hates the noise!! Weird eh? This is him just after i got the TD04L from a WRX Engine that was broken to rebuild a STI, i swooped up this deal immediately! At this point in time the project turned a different route simply because the stock turbo was in and downpipe built, we had to start over to get this one in. One of the few reasons this project has taken roughly 18 months so far, a very picky and uncertain owner and a very patient mechanic!!

Engine has been rebuilt from top to bottom. Head was machined by Lester Martin (One & Only mech. to work on this car!) so we get some nice flow, way above the flow of the stock head no question about it. Manifold might look a bit shabby but we know it dont leak and it has been fitted perfectly so we know it going to work. Might out perform and out last those pretty stainless things. Usuall toys under the hood, plugs, 8.8 leads. Plumbing just needs to be coupled with the plenum then the welding up the BOV. Big valve pan breather but im taking that out and just run hose to the lower part of the car. When i decide to run big boost the engine will get dirty and i've changed my mind about spending money on a shinny oil catch can, it dont make the car faster. Exide Orbital Battery will be located in the trunk so FMIC piping and other little bits can be added no problem. Got my hands on a Glanza V Turbo radiator fan, in theory they supposed to have a bigger motor and higher cooling capbilities over the EP82 model radiator. I managed to keep the stock dual core radiator. I bought 3 radiators after we ralised without the AC the stock one can still be used, now tell me this racing thing isnt a drug?

FMIC mounted, comes off the Mitsibushi Starion from the US, lovely size for this engine and turbo, not too big and not to small, piping on left side is very short, one U bend and a 90 bend and it meets the turbo, less tubing, less lag . .thats what we hoping for. Most of these small but efficient modifications were not possible without the removal of the complete AC system. I dont care right about now, i've just kept adding things and i might as well go full out race car but nice on the street. No AC and fan and condencer = 50KGS less easy.

2-1/2 Inch Downpipe, stock one was heavy and restrictive, full of asbestos. Lost about 30KGS easily. 2-1/2 Inch right back to HKS Barrel. No restrictions, nice fat 2-1/2 Inch flex to compensate for engine movement. I had the piping done when i just got the car but still had cat and stock turbo. I expect to spit some fire with this system with fuel controlled.

Without AC things have run smoothly. I could just jack the car up, stretch up and change oil filter now. We just have to couple the compressor housing of turbo onto piping from left side of intercooler with soft wall marine hose. Now, some might say this turbo is small. Yes it is, its bigger than the stock CT9. This turbo is off the stock JDM 2.0 WRX. The secret is the power band of this turbo on this relatively small 1.3L engine. This turbo can boost from 2500-3000RPM hard to 8000RPM i can get almost 6000RPM of boost compared to me buying lets say a Garret GT28 and i get full boost at 5000 and can only run till 8000 because you will turn the little 1.3 into pop corn! No question about it, the car with the Garret will be of a higher HP rating and will be without a question faster, but im street, you need to have a good power band for the street and if the factors are right, i can cut some big doggs down with this concept as well. The perfect match of parts, never over the top.

Manifold from Guyana, gotta give props to Speed Vision, nuff good advise, these guys run VF's off STI's and GT28 Garetts.

Alot guys complain about getting intercooler piping done locally, but to hell with that i was satisfied. Made a template, brough it for meh partner by First Class by Deco Gas station and I think the work come out real nice and neat. Big up First Class.

The car has been sprayed already but due to the amount of work done after it being sprayed the last thing done will be another few coats but with a different shade of black ;) Weve got the front and rear lips and the side skirts sitting there, nothing too fancy, neat on the streets but a devil underneath.

Alloys are a sick shade of gold, very rich and will look mad when lowered on the 40MM drop springs i have from B&G.

I have a good range of electronics, The engine needs to be broken it, it will be broken in on a old school AFC on 10lbs first then up to a unspecified higher amount on the E-Manage that will also controll timing. Boost is controlled by the E-01. Boost curve and gain can be controlled, rpm controlled boost blah blah blah.

I will be updating this page as things go along, it's become my hobby and this is one possession i dont think i will sell. I want a 12 second street car in my driveway. Anything faster ill buy another car, build it and park it up just like this one.

Right now ah saving to buy a corrola xmas time :)