Page 1: 1999 Camaro Z28
Page 2: Horsepower Modifications
Page 3: Suspension and Visual Modifications
Page 4: Old Cars and Links
Page 5: How-To Guides
Page 6: Parts for Sale
Page 7: Future upgrades
Page 8: Randome Pics - friends, hobbies and me
Page 9: My new Short Sticks that are for sale
Page 10: The Killing Wall
Page 11: Flowtech Longtube Header Installation
Page 12: Underwater pictures from the Dry Tortugas
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HOW-TO GUIDES

As you may have noticed when you switch on your High beams the low beams go off, as do the fog lights. There are two separate modifications that you can do to make it so that all the lights are on when the high beams are turned on, as shown in the picture above. I did these modifications so that I could have the most possible light on the road at night, for safety and more comfortable driving.

High and Low beams on at once
Directions:
There are 4 screws under the driver's side dash allow access under the steering column (2 philips, 2 hex). Then there are 2 plastic push pins that hold the rear panel in place, these can be removed by gently prying with a screwdriver. With these panels off, look down the left side of the steering column and there is a white switch with a brown plug and 2 black tabs. Squeeze black tabs and pull the connector off. Make a jumper connection between the large tan wire and the large yellow wire. For safety I used an inline fuse housing with a 30amp fuse, and spliced into the wires using standard wire splice connectors. After installing the fused jumper, reconnect the plug and reinstall the panels

This way if the fuse blows the lights go back to the standard operation instead of blowing the whole headlight fuse. The inline fuse housings are available at most auto parts stores or Wal-Mart. Again this is not required, I just did it for added safety.

Foglights on with highbeams
Directions:
Going into the back of the fog switch there is a green wire, cut it. Insulate the car side as it will no longer will be needed and does go hot when the high beams are on. Add a little wire to the switch side of the green wire and ground under one of the radio mount bolts (additional wire may not be needed depending on where you cut the wire). Put the switch and radio trim back together.

Go under the hood, pull up the relay box with the fan and fog relays in it, the box closest to the fender on the driver side. There are a few small plastic clips that hold the whole fuse block in.
Going into the bottom of the fog relay is the same green wire, cut it. Extend the relay side about 8" with wire and ground it. I used the ground screw right next to the relay box, on the strut tower. Insulate the car side of the cut wire because it goes hot with the high beams. Reinstall the fuse panel and you are done.

Directions for a modification I have not done yet:

Dump the DRL, but keep the auto headlights
Directions:
Unbolt the radio and pull it out, no need to unplug wiring.
Unclip DRL module from ductwork.
There are 2 plugs going into the module, you want the larger of the 2.
Cut the following wires:
Dark Blue
Lt. Blue
Dark Blue/White stripe
Lt. Blue/White stripe
Then permanantly connect together the wires as follows:
(This is the car side of the wires, module side of wires are abandoned.)
Lt. Blue/White stripe connects to Lt Blue.
Dark Blue/White stripe connects to Dark Blue.
Put module, radio, and bezel back.

Alternate method:
First you must locate the DRL control module. It is a black box about the size of a pack of cigarettes behind the radio. It is clipped to the HVAC duct and has two connectors going into it, one blue and the other black. The blue connector on the DRL module has eight cavities, but only seven of them are used. Cavity B is empty. If that terminal is grounded, your DRLs are disabled. The black wire in cavity A is a ground, so I took the DRL module apart (easy to do, the cover just slips off) and solder-jumpered the A and B terminals on the PCB. This leaves you with no DRLs, you power hatch and handbrake light still works, and it all looks factory. Easy to undo if you want. Some people have expressed a desire for a switch to select whether you want the DRLs or not. This is very easy to do. All you need to do is put a switch inline with the wire that's jumping cavity A and cavity B, and that's it. You will not need to be concerned with fuses in this situation because you're jumping a ground, not a hot wire.

Disable CAGS without triggering the SES light

When the CAGS solenoid is connected, the ECM sees the effective resistance of the coil in the relay. When the connector is unplugged, the ECM will see an open circuit or infinite resistance, and sets a trouble code to warn of CAGS solenoid failure. To prevent this code, a 2.2K ohm � watt resistor is placed in the end of the wiring harness after it is unplugged from the solenoid. Now the ECM will see the same coil resistance as it did when the wiring harness was connected to the CAGS solenoid. No codes will be set, and the CAGS lockout solenoid will cease to function. Now, you will no longer be prevented from shifting into second gear from first during conservative driving.

Note: This mod will not prevent the Skip Shift light from illuminating on the console. After completion of the mod, the light will be meaningless, and you can ignore it.

Materials required:
2200 or 2.2K ohm � watt (Radio Shack), Electrical Tape, Tie Wrap

Disconnect the wiring harness from the top of the transmission. Insert the 2.2 ohm � watt resistor into the female portion of the CAGS wiring harness. Wrap the harness in electrical tape to make a weather tight seal (or use some shrink wrap) and zip-tie it out of the way.

How to fix hazy LS1-style headlights:

For any LS1 style Camaro owner knows, after years of road debris and exposure to the elements, our headligts begin to get hazy. There are several products available for polishing this plastic, but I found a simpler and cheaper way. I was able to use 3 commonly available car care products, 2 of which you probably already have. 3M 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, Mothers Chrome polish and Mothers Pre-wax Cleaner.

On the left is the before shot, you can see the haze in the plastic. it makes the headlight look yellowish in the light during the day and not as crisp of a beam of light at nite. On the right is the polished version. This result came from only about 10 mins of gentle sanding with the fine grit sandpaper, using water. at first I focused on the heavily affected spots with alot of pressure and back and forth motion. As a final sanding, I used less pressure and circular motion. I then used a damp cloth and hand polished the light with the Chrome polish (very mild abbrasive), wiped it clean and finished it with a good final polish of the "pre-wax cleaner" which has an even finer abbrasive. The resuld is quite noticable, both up close and at a distance.

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Page 1: 1999 Camaro Z28
Page 2: Horsepower Modifications
Page 3: Suspension and Visual Modifications
Page 4: Old Cars and Links
Page 5: How-To Guides
Page 6: Parts for Sale
Page 7: Future upgrades
Page 8: Randome Pics - friends, hobbies and me
Page 9: My new Short Sticks that are for sale
Page 10: The Killing Wall
Page 11: Flowtech Longtube Header Installation
Page 12: Underwater pictures from the Dry Tortugas
________________________________________