Page 1: 1999 Camaro Z28
Page 2: Horsepower Modifications
Page 3: Suspension and Visual Modifications
Page 4: Old Cars and Links
Page 5: How-To Guides
Page 6: Parts for Sale
Page 7: Future upgrades
Page 8: Randome Pics - friends, hobbies and me
Page 9: My new Short Sticks that are for sale
Page 10: The Killing Wall
Page 11: Flowtech Longtube Header Installation
Page 12: Underwater pictures from the Dry Tortugas
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Flowtech Longtube Header Installation on a 1999 Camaro Z28

Note:
All cars will be slightly different, this is what worked for me. I installed the headers in aprox. 10 hours, by myself, in my driveway with minimal tools. Some applications and cars may be different.

1- let car cool sufficiently
2- disconnect negative battery cable
3- unbolt AIR tubes (10mm) from each manifold, careful with the gaskets if you plan to reuse them, place them out of the way on top of the engine.
4- For models equipped with EGR: remove bolt on top of intake behind throttlebody (10mm), remove 2 bolts on lower EGR tube (10mm) and remove 2 bolts for EGR bracket on the cylinder head (15mm), unplug connector on top of EGR valve and carefully remove EGR unit. Save gaskets if needed for reinstallation.
5-remove plug wires from each coil, turn to the side and pull, they will �pop� off
6- remove 6 bolts (10mm deep socket) that hold the coil packs on. 1998 models may be different. Disconnect plug on top of coil pack and set aside.

7- remove plug wires, twist and pull on plug boot to break the seal. DO NOT pull on the wire. Two rear passenger side are most difficult
8- remove all 8 plugs, may require assortment of extensions and universal joints. All 8 were removed from the top of the engine bay.
9- remove bolt holding oil dipstick in place (15mm) and pull up, stick will pull out of oil pan.

10- raise the rear of the car about 4-6 inches to allow more room under car later.
11- raise the front of car VERY high., I used standard jack stands�on top of 6� cinderblocks, all under the front crossmember in order to get the front of the car up high enough.

12- remove the 4 bolts (15mm) holding the crossbrace behind the transmission crossmember and set the brace aside
13- remove the 3 bolts (13mm) on each manifold flange holding the cats and Y-pipe on, and disconnect the Ypipe from the catback. Remove the O2 sensors at the same time.
14- from the top of the car, remove the 6 bolts (10mm) that hold the manifolds onto the cylinder heads. I was able to use a 3/8th inch socket to break the bolts free, then found a � inch drive socket easiest to remove the bolts the rest of the way. The rear passenger side is the hardest to get to, I found laying across the engine bay allowed the easiest access to the bolts. On the driver side, unplug the coolant temperature sensor to allow easier acces to the front bolt
15- unplug O2 sensor from driver side manifold, and remove both manifolds through the bottom.
16- TAKE A BREAK
17- I had to use a small hacksaw to remove a bit of material from the side of the block on the driver side, it is excess material left from the casting of the block. A sharp saw blade cut this piece off in 5 minutes and allowed easier insertion of the header later.

18- use masking tape and put 3-4 layers of tape on the edge of the K-member, motor mount, and any other edge that you see that may scrape or scratch the header as you slide it into place.
19- carefully slide the passenger header into place from underneath, and position something below the collector to hold it up (or have a second person hold it). Move to the top of the engine bay, and thread one header bolt into one of the middle bolt holes to hold the header in place.
20- position the gasket, pay attention to the proper orientation, and slide it between the header flange and the cylinder head in the front of the header, thread the front bolt, through the gasket, and several turns into the bolt hold to hold the header and gasket in place
21- remove the first bolt you installed and move the gasket into place and thread the bolt back in. once that bolt is in, all the other holes in the gasket should be lined up. Thread all 6 bolts loosely.
22- snug down the 6 bolts, then do the final tightening from the center out. I was able to best reach the bolts with a � inch drive socket, and did the final torque down by adding an extension to the handle to get sufficient torque
23- DRIVER SIDE
24- use masking tape in same manner as other side, be sure to tape off the small piece of casting material that was cut off as previously noted
25- slide header in from underneath, and position similar to passenger side, either find a way for it to stay in place or put something under it to hold it up.
26- return to the top of the engine bay and repeat the process of threading a bolt to hold the header in place and then a bolt to align the gasket as described for the passenger side.
27- torque bolts down in center-out pattern again
28- TAKE A BREAK
29- recheck all 12 header bolts for proper tightness
30- replace or reinstall all 8 spark plugs, DO NOT over tighten plugs since the cylinder heads are aluminum and easily stripped.
31- install plug wires, not forgetting the di-electric grease, on all plugs and arrange wires so that they are away from the header primaries
32- squeeze di-electric grease on inside of each coil connection
33- re-install coil packs for each side and connect the plug
TRICK:
the driver side plug wires are easily accessable, however, the passenger side rear wire is nearly impossible to get to. to make it easier, don't bolt that coil pack down. slide the pack into position, then connect the rear two plug wires to the proper coil, this is much easier to do now than after the coil pack is bolted in place. connect those two wires, and install the coil pack in it's usual position.
34- reconnect the plug wires to the coil packs, some are best done by reaching in horizontal to the cylinder heads and using both hands to make the final connection. The plugs should make 2 �pops� as they seat onto the connections

35- re-install the AIR tubes, with the gasket. My Flowtech headers came with 13mm bolts that I think were a different thread than the what the manifolds had, I tried the stock bolts but they didn�t work.
36- re-install the EGR unit, again making sure to use the gasket and again using the supplied bolts from the kit. for the 10mm bolt on top of the intake (01+ models excluded) DO NOT tighten down too much since it is only seated in a composite plastic manifold�it is easy to strip the threaded insert
NOTE: if using block off plates for the AIR and EGR ignore these steps. A 1 3/8th inch block plug works to fill the hole that the EGR previously occupied (below Left). Remember this will throw an SES code if not programmed off the computer.

On the right is the passenger side of the engine, with the AIR and EGR blockoff plates visible.
37- install proper length O2 extensions (came with my header kit), route wires away from headers, I ran mine behind some of the tin heat shielding. Re-install front O2 sensors in sensor bungs.

Depending on the car, the K-member may need to be trimmed to allow proper clearance for the header primaries. I have Prothane polyurethane motor mounts installed so engine twist is minimized and I had no problems with �banging� or �rubbing� when the engine torqued up.

38- reconnect the negative battery cable
39- climb in car and fire that bitch up!
40- bath in the lovely sound of the OPEN HEADERS ROARING

41- connect Y-pipe or true duals as neccessary

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Page 1: 1999 Camaro Z28
Page 2: Horsepower Modifications
Page 3: Suspension and Visual Modifications
Page 4: Old Cars and Links
Page 5: How-To Guides
Page 6: Parts for Sale
Page 7: Future upgrades
Page 8: Randome Pics - friends, hobbies and me
Page 9: My new Short Sticks that are for sale
Page 10: The Killing Wall
Page 11: Flowtech Longtube Header Installation
Page 12: Underwater pictures from the Dry Tortugas
_______________________________________