This is Rick. He has been a lot of help, when it came time to start putting this project together. He is working on his 1966 Ford Fairlane and be getting ready to prime in the near future. He also has a 66 Merc Cyclone fully tubbed that we plan on working on in the near future. 

Rick has been a major help in this project. In this picture we just put the engine assembly on the cherry picker and used the happy hooker we were just about ready to drop it in. Ran into a major snag. The transmission and new ATI Torque convertor had arrived from Probuilt but the Flex Plate wasn't anywhere to be found.  

This is just before putting the engine in the bay. It isn't the easiest task for 1 person but it can be done. With the happy hooker you can acutally put the engine and transmission in togethor with little difficulty. But, with the current problem, I decided not to wait and install the engine 1st then put the transmission on at a later time. 

It was a lot easier to drop the engine assembly with the Hooker 2210 Headers than to try and put them in afterwards. Of course I had to clearance the right A-arm to make room for the right side headers to fit. Then after the 1st attempt to put the motor in, we found out that the right motor mount bushing was upside because we replaced the mount bushings with new energy suspension bushings. ARRRGGG!! Pulled the engine again, turned the bushing around and re-installed the engine. Now to start with all the engine cosmetics. 

A lot of people have asked me about the bracket setups for the Supercharger and to document the installation. This picture is located on the left side of engine, this is the main bracket that attaches the supercharger to the engine and encases the Power steering pump. It actually takes some rewiring and a little re-vamping to get everything the right length but it is very do-able. You can see The Rattler Harmonic Balancer located on the bottom. And no!! That sticker on the harmonic balancer isn't something that I put on. 

Now the right side of the engine. You can see that I have mounted the A/C compressor, the Idler Pulley, the Tensioner pulley and Air Pump. I refuse to get rid of the A/C compressor but might use a Smog Delete pulley once I get the ruling on NY State Emissions Laws. To purchase all the parts except for the brackets from a local Auto Parts store costs roughly $450. The Brackets cost $150 from a GM Dealership. Had to ensure all the parts were for a 91 Camaro with a 350 F.I. 

This is the bracket located on the left side that you can now see the Power steering pump which is behind the front bracket, The Water pump, the S/C idler pulley and the ALT located way at the bottom next to the steering gear box. The S/C will be located directly above the power steering pump and attached using 5 bolts. Trying to get a modified Hose for the P/S so it doesn't look awkward. 

You can see from this picture that I have the hooker 2210 Super Comps installed after I had to weld the NB02 and WB02 Bungs in. Following that is the Mufflex Y-Pipe to a 4 inch exhaust pipe that runs into a Spin-tech Muffler with Dual out pipes. If they say you can't do a 4' exhaust on an F-body tell them they are wrong. This is a very easy setup. I wouldn't recommend using the clamps from Mufflex though. After I bought the 2210's for $700 I sent them to Jet hot for Ceramic coating for another $300. The y-pipe was $350 and the rest of the exhaust was almost $900. Rather costly but it can breath.  

Starting to make some headway with the throttle body and Fuel Rail's now. You can see that I had to change the Bolts on the throttle body and use hex bolts on the bottom and stock 1/2 inch Bolts on the top. This is because of the nitrous plate. I had to modify the thermostat housing also because of the S/C idler pulley. Actually had to cut and re-weld the housing because of clearance issues. 

Started strengthing the engine drive train up. Here is the right side head. On top of the AFR heads are ARP 7/16 studs with Magnum 1:6 Roller Rockers  and Competition Cam Valve girdles. These are a really nice touch to the setup. You can also see that I have used a good set of Aluminum Wireset Holders. I had to modify them on both sides as the No# 5 & 6 8.8mm wires kept touching the headers and burning through. 

Had a minor setback with the car. Kept finding this after running the car for 5 minutes or so. It sounded really good but couldn't figure out where the coolant was coming from. I called a friend who told me to check for pass through holes where the rocker studs sit. There might not be any sealant on the threads. He was 100% correct and I have to fix that before I find all my anti-freeze in the base and start spinning bearings. Finally fixed this problem by resealing the arp head studs and adding BLUE-DEVIL block sealer. Works great now !! 

This picture shows the Supercharger and the N2O all hooked up. You can see the main N20 supply line that runs down behind the distrib to the bottle. A future project coming is the intercooler which should be ordered the winter of 2008. I have also relocated the MAP sensor so it sits on the top of the engine instead of the bay brace which isn't shown in the picture. 

Page 1:  The Beginning

Page 2:  Engine & Modifications

Page 3:  Drive Train Assembly <------- You are Currently HERE!

Page 4: Intercooler Installation

Page 5:  Interior

Page 6:  Finished Project

Page 7:  Extra Parts I am selling