SOME USEFUL INFO

Jackson Racing Super Charger Directions Text Only!

440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93117
1-888-888-4079 • FAX 805-692-2523 • www.supercharger.com

Installation Instructions
SUPERCHARGER

94-01 Acura Integra GS-R B18C1

PART # 989-500

C.A.R.B. E.O. D-344-8
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY!

Follow the instructions STEP-BY-STEP, and
your installation will be trouble free. If in
doubt, CALL 1-888-888-4079. We suggest
that as you proceed through the installation,
you should read a few steps ahead in the
instructions so you are certain to catch all
notes and warnings.

ATTENTION SUPERCHARGER INSTALLER!

Before proceeding with the installation, it is
important to know that to validate the 2 year,
100K warranty on your new J/R supercharger,
you must completely fill out the Moss Motors /
Jackson Racing warranty card that comes in
every kit, including serial number which is on
a small white ‘bar code’ label on the body of
the supercharger. Write down all of the numbers
which appear on that label in the appropriate
space on the warranty card. Be certain
to do this now because once your supercharger
is installed, it may be almost impossible to
retrieve that serial number.

SPECIAL NOTE: We do recommend you buy
a new intake gasket or throttle body gasket
from your local Honda dealer before starting
installation. A shop manual will also be useful.
If there is more than 15,000 miles on the fuel
filter, a replacement fuel filter is required. A
new fuel filter should be available at your local
Honda dealer.Always use genuine Honda
parts whenever possible. Now is a good time
to change your oil and filter, as the oil filter
must be removed for installation of the supercharger.

Jackson Racing Supercharger Systems are

designed to be installed by individuals with
good mechanical sense and with the proper
tools. Use your discretion--if you are not a
competent mechanic, do not attempt this
installation.

TOOLS NEEDED: Most of these tools are
available at your local hardware or auto parts
store.
8, 10, 11, 12, 14, 17, 22, and 30-mm socket
and wrenches
8-mm allen wrench
Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers
Vice grip pliers
Timing light
A soldering gun is not required for the few
wiring details, as we supply crimp connectors,
but soldering has a better long-term serviceability.

WARNING: Once the installation is complete,
CHECK AND RECHECK ALL fuel system connections
for possible leaks before operating
the vehicle. Premium fuel (91 octane or higher)
is required in a supercharged motor.
Please use only
hi-grade premium gasoline.

During this installation process, you will reuse
some parts or hardware and not reinstall others.
It is recommended that you make space
for those that you will reuse, and a separate
space for those that you will not reinstall. In
addition, you should save the parts that will
not get reused in case you ever have reason
to convert the engine back to stock.

Enclosed is a set of labels that we suggest
you use to label the electrical connectors that
you will be unplugging.

989-500 -1-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

1. VERY IMPORTANT! Disconnect the
negative battery cable from the negative
terminal on the battery.
2. Put your car on jack stands.NEVER
WORK UNDER A CAR NOT SUPPORTED
BY JACKSTANDS OR RAMPS.
3. Drain the cooling system as you will be
replacing some hoses and the intake
manifold.
4. Remove the large diameter rubber
hose between the air box and throttle
body. Loosen the clamp at the throttle
body with a phillips head screwdriver and
slide it off. Disconnect the double metal
pipe assembly by removing the pinch
clamp.
5. Remove the other end of the double
metal pipe assembly by disconnecting it
from the top of the valve cover. This hose
will get replaced by a 4" piece of vent
hose. The two other lines connected to
the assembly are water hoses. Leave
these attached until a later step.
6. Remove the small bracket on the driver’s
fenderwell that secures the main
wiring harness.
7. Remove the gray plugs and wiring harness
from the area near the base of the
windshield on the driver’s side.
Illustration 1

8. For power steering equipped cars, you
can work around the power steering hose
if you wish, but we recommend that you
disconnect it from the main pump. First,
clamp the supply line that connects the
power steering reservoir to the pump.
To clamp the supply line, gently squeeze
it closed with a pair of vice grips type pliers
or a clamp. Remove the two 10-mm
bolts that connect the power steering
hose to the pump. You will need to wrap
a protective cloth around the end of the
power steering hose when you remove it
from the pump. Once disconnected, lay
the hose out of the way near the driver’s
side hood pivot.

9. To disconnect the throttle cable, loosen
the 12-mm nut on the throttle cable and
remove it from the bracket. Pull the throttle
body wide open and push the small
cylinder at the end of the throttle cable
out the side of the throttle control thus
disconnecting the throttle cable. Pull the
throttle cable and lay it out of the way.
10. Disconnect the power brake hose
from the back of the intake manifold.
11. Unplug the Air Temperature (T/A) sensor
harness from the T/A sensor on the
intake manifold. Disconnect the retainer
clip from the metal bracket with needle
nose pliers to release the T/A wiring
harness. The T/A sensor is fragile, so be
careful. The wire colors are green with a
blue stripe and red with a yellow stripe.
Apply a label to this wiring harness.
12. Unplug the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve
harness from the Purge Cut Solenoid
Valve located on the passenger side (‘94’
95), or on top of the intake manifold (‘96’
99). Identify the valve by locating the
vacuum hose coming from the charcoal
canister and the other hose going to the
intake manifold. The wire colors are yellow
with a black stripe and solid red.
Apply a label to this wiring harness. Note:
You will be using the yellow with black
stripe wire for a 12-volt switched power
source for the Jackson Racing Fuel
Enrichment Electronics later in the installation.
13. Disconnect the charcoal canister
hose from the top of the throttle body. It,
like the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve, has a
hose from the charcoal canister, except
this hose goes to the throttle body
instead of the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve.
989-500 -2-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

Illustration 1
14. Unplug the Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensor harness mounted
directly on top of the throttle body. The
wire colors are green with a white stripe,
white with a yellow stripe, and yellow with
a white stripe. Apply a label to this wiring
harness.
15. Unplug the Throttle Position Switch
(TPS) harness from the throttle body. The
wire colors are yellow with a blue stripe,
red with a black stripe, and green with a
blue stripe. Apply a label to this wiring
harness. This plug and the MAP plug can
be mistakenly interchanged. Always double
check your wire colors.
16. Remove the Purge Cut Solenoid
Valve from the intake manifold. On ‘94’
95 models, the two vacuum hoses connected
are vacuum hose #7 coming in
and vacuum hose #12 exiting to the
intake manifold. Remove vacuum hose
#12. It will not get reused. On ‘96-’99
models the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve
hoses are not identified.
17. Lay the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve
and the charcoal canister hose out of the
way.
WARNING! Do not smoke during these
procedures.

18. Remove the gas cap to relieve any
fuel pressure, then reinstall.
19. From the driver’s side of the manifold,
remove the fuel return line from the factory
fuel pressure regulator located on the
fuel rail.
20. Remove the fuel return line from its
stabilizer bracket on the lower part of the
intake manifold.
21. Disconnect the vacuum line from the
fuel pressure regulator.
22. Remove the factory fuel pressure regulator
by removing the two 10-mm bolts.
The factory fuel pressure regulator will be
reinstalled later using an adapter. Remove
the small stabilizer bracket that
connects the fuel rail to the intake manifold.
The stabilizer bracket will not be
reused.
23. Remove the two 10-mm nuts that
hold the plastic fuel injector wiring harness
cover to the fuel rail. These two 10mm
nuts and cover will not be reinstalled.
24. Disconnect the four injector plugs
from the fuel injectors and pull the harness
out of the way.
989-500 -3-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

25. Disconnect the high-pressure fuel
supply hose from the passenger side of
the fuel rail CAREFULLY! The hose may
still be under high pressure. Disconnect
the hose by unscrewing the 22-mm nut
on the end of the fuel rail. Do NOT lose
the two aluminum crush washers on
either side of the fuel line “banjo” fitting.
26. Remove the fuel rail from the intake
manifold by removing the three 10-mm
hex nuts. Then remove the fuel injectors
from the fuel rail and put the injectors
back in the injector holes in the engine
block to prevent debris from going into
the engine.
27. Remove the three brown phenolic
spacers that are located between the fuel
rail and the intake manifold and save
them for reinstallation. NOTE: Some
countries and year models do not have
these spacers. Three new ones are supplied
with the kit for ‘96 and later models.
28. Disconnect the one inch coolant hose
from the intake manifold on the passenger
side, near the cylinder head’s #4
intake port.
29. Next to the one inch hose is a smaller
coolant hose. That hose connects to the
fast idle valve at the bottom of the throttle
body. Remove that hose. It will not be
reused. NOTE: Some countries and year
models (‘98-’99 USA) do not have this
hose. There is an 1/8 NPT plug supplied
in this kit to plug the hole in the new
manifold where a 5/16" fitting is normally
installed.
30. Unbolt the throttle body by removing
the two 12-mm bolts and the two 12-mm
nuts. The two bolts will be reinstalled.
The nuts will not be reused.
31. Disconnect the coolant hose on the
driver’s side of the IAC (Idle Air Control)
valve. The IAC valve is located next to
the throttle body, on the backside of the
intake valve. It has a coolant hose that
connects it to the throttle body. Leave the
hose to the throttle body connected.
32. Unplug the IAC valve. The wire colors
are yellow with a black stripe and black
with a blue stripe. Apply a label to this
wiring harness.
33. Remove the IAC valve and the throttle
body as a unit by removing the two
12-mm bolts that hold the IAC valve to
the back of the intake manifold. The two
bolts will be reinstalled in step 114.
34. We now move under the car. Note:
Removing the catalytic converter and
head pipe “A” will make access to the
bottom of the intake manifold easier but it
is not required.
35. Unplug the O2 sensor and remove
the catalytic converter. Apply penetrating
oil to the nuts of the catalytic converter to
ease removal.
36. Remove the oil filter if you have not
done so already. Have a drain pan available,
as some oil will drip out.
37. Remove the exhaust pipe support
bracket by removing the two 14-mm hex
nuts that hold the bracket to the pipe and
the two 14-mm hex bolts that hold the
bracket to the block. One of these bolts
also holds the oil separator box in place.
38. Remove the black oil separator box
by pulling it away from the engine block
and disconnecting the PCV fitting and the
vent hose on top of the separator box.
39. Remove the two 10-mm hex bolts
from the bottom of the intake manifold
bracket that holds the steel water pipe for
the heater hose.
40. Remove the intake manifold support
bracket by removing the four 12-mm
bolts. Remove the brown zip tie holding
the main wiring harness to the support
bracket. Then remove the fifth 12-mm
bolt. The fifth bolt is difficult to access
from under the car since it is directly
above the rear engine mount. You will
have better access from above the car.
989-500 -4-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

41. Remove the oil cooler from the
engine block with a 30-mm (1 3/16”)
socket. Note the location of the coolant
fittings on the oil cooler. They will be
moved from a 12 o’clock position to a 9
o’clock position later. NOTE: Some countries
and year models (98-99 USA) do not
have oil coolers. Disregard any instructions
regarding oil coolers if your vehicle
is not equipped with an oil cooler.
42. Unplug the oil pressure switch, which
is at the 9 o’clock position.
43. Disconnect the two oil cooler hoses
from the engine block and the water pipe.
NOTE: Some coolant may spill out. Be
careful.
44. With the oil cooler, oil separator box,
and oil filter removed, the lower intake
manifold nuts are accessible.
45. We will now remove the factory intake
manifold. There are five 12-mm nuts on
the bottom of the intake manifold. From
beneath the car, remove four of the nuts
starting from the driver’s side. The fifth
nut on the bottom of the intake manifold,
closest to the passenger side, will be
removed from above the car.
46. Remove the five 12-mm nuts in the
top of the intake manifold.
47. Unplug the IAB (Intake Air Bypass)
control valve harness going to the vacuum
reservoir located on the underside of
the intake manifold. The wire colors are
yellow with a black stripe and pink with a
blue stripe. Apply a label to this wiring
harness. Illustration 2
48. Remove the intake manifold by sliding
it off the ten studs. The factory intake manifold
will not be reinstalled.
49. Remove the fuel return line from the
base of the firewall. Connect the 1/4” x 20”
fuel return line supplied in the kit. The free
end will be connected later.
50. Locate the IAC valve wiring harness
with wire colors yellow with a black stripe
and black with a blue stripe. Get the
extension wire with same wire colors from
the kit. Cut the wire to the IAC valve and
solder or crimp connect in the extension
provided in the kit.

51. Remove the one inch O.D. heater
hose that has the metal pipe section in the
middle. NOTE: Where this hose connects
at the firewall, the fitting is thin-walled copper
and will deform if squeezed. To
remove the hose, slice it longitudinally
along the hose to the end of the fitting and
slip the hose off the fitting. This assembly
will not be reinstalled.
Illustration 2
52. Install the new 5/8” x 18" heater hose
from the fitting on the engine to the fitting
on the firewall. Clamp the hose ends with
two new #10 clamps provided. Illustration
3
53. The oil cooler fitting in the main water
pipe needs to be pointed in a horizontal
direction back towards the firewall. On
some models we have found that the fitting
points above horizontal, slightly uphill.
If your fitting points above horizontal,
CAREFULLY insert a large punch or
screwdriver into the fitting and gently apply
pressure until the water pipe is at least
horizontal. If the oil cooler fitting is pointing
a little downhill, that is acceptable.
989-500 -5-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

Illustration 3

54. Loosen the power steering pump.
Remove the belt. This belt will be reinstalled.
55. Loosen the tension pulley for the air
conditioning belt and remove the belt. This
belt will be reinstalled.
56. Remove the factory, 785-mm alternator
belt. This belt will not be reinstalled and
will be replaced by the 800-mm belt supplied
in the kit.
57. Install the 800-mm belt supplied in the
kit over the crank pulley only.
58. Remove the 12-mm top bolt holding
the alternator on its upper bracket.
59. Remove the 14-mm bottom nut holding
the alternator pivot bolt on its lower
bracket.
60. Remove the alternator from its bracket.
Do not disconnect any wiring harnesses at
this time.
61. Remove the 22-mm nut holding the
alternator pulley to the alternator using an
impact gun. Remove the pulley. This factory
alternator pulley will not be reinstalled.
62. Install the double alternator pulley,
supplied in the kit, with the 22-mm nut just
removed, using an impact gun.
63. Remove the three 14-mm headed
bolts and the lower alternator bracket. The
stock bracket will not be reused but the
bolts and spacer will be reused. One of
the three 14-mm bolts will require a thin
wall socket to bolt the new cast alternator
bracket back to the block.
64. Remove the pilot spacer directly under
the pivot nut from the original bracket.
Install it in the new alternator mount casting.
65. Loosely attach the supercharger support
bracket to the lower alternator mount
casting using the M8 x 25 flange bolt supplied.
The slotted end of the support
bracket will be attached to the supercharger
later in the installation.
66. Install the lower alternator mount
casting and support bracket onto the
engine block. Fully tighten the three alternator
mount bolts. Leave the flange bolt
for the support bracket hand tight with the
support bracket laying down out of the
way. Illustration 4 (support bracket not
shown)
Illustration 4
989-500 -6-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

67. With the alternator removed, it is a
good time to modify the power steering
metal pipe where it goes past the alternator.
This metal pipe is the low-pressure
return line from the steering rack. It has a
rubber hose connected to it. To straighten,
gently push the end of the pipe, nearest
the firewall, with the butt end of a
mallet. The pipe will give under pressure.
It is important to move the pipe back as
the supercharger belt will be routed
through this area. Illustration 5
Illustration 5
68. Reinstall the alternator with the factory
bottom mounting bolt. The bolt is long
and square-headed. Make sure the
square head is on the passenger side
and that it is positioned so that it will not
turn when the nut is tightened.
69. Release the plastic clamp, which
holds the main power lead to the alternator
(large white wire).
70. Disconnect the white wire from the
alternator. The wire will be rerouted.
71. Release the brown plastic clamp,
which holds the power steering pressure
switch harness to the power steering
hose. Remove the brown clamps from
the hose once released.
72. Unplug the power steering pressure
switch and reroute the pressure switch
harness behind the brake line that comes
through the driver’s side fender well, back
towards the firewall, and plug it back into
the pressure switch. Make sure the wiring
harness is out of harms way.
73. If the car is ABS equipped, put a zip
tie around the ABS power lead. It has an
orange plug that passes through the driver’s
fender. The zip tie holds the ABS
power lead, with the orange plug, to the
main wiring harness. These last two operations
ensure that the supercharger drive
belt does not interfere with the wiring.
74. Install the 620-mm belt supplied with
the kit on the alternator pulley around the
set of ribs closest to the alternator.
75. Slide the 800-mm belt previously
looped around crank pulley over the outer
set of ribs on the alternator pulley. Note:
Make sure the belt goes over the top of
the idler pulley.
76. Install the aluminum supercharger
belt tensioner bracket with the two studs
sticking out of it. Slide the two threaded
studs through the original upper alternator
bracket adjustment slot. Install the
bracket studs from the outside of the original
bracket slot facing in towards the
engine.
77. Install the two 1/8" steel spacers on
the stud closest to firewall.
78. On the stud closest to the engine
block, install one 8-mm flange nut. Only
hand tighten this nut at this time.
79. Install the small upper support bracket
(“L” shaped) to the supercharger belt
tensioner bracket. Install the “L” shaped
bracket on the passenger side of the
supercharger bracket using the 8 x 1.25mm
nut and a 8 x 30-mm bolt supplied
with the kit. Illustration 6
989-500 -7-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

Illustration 6
80. Install the 10 x 20-mm bolt supplied
with the kit to attach the “L” shaped bracket
to the cylinder head. Illustration 6
81. Using a new 8 x 40-mm bolt supplied
with the kit, install it through the alternator
upper stabilizer bracket (short steel bracket
with two holes supplied with the kit) and
install it through the upper alternator mounting
hole. Install an 8 x 1.25-mm nut, supplied
with the kit, onto this upper alternator
mounting bolt.
82. Take the other end of the alternator
stabilizer bracket and install it on to the stud
closest to the firewall that we had previously
installed the two 1/8" steel spacers on
and secure it with the nut
supplied in the kit. These operations will
hold the alternator in a secure, preset location.
The alternator will no longer act as an
adjuster.
83. Wedge the bracket back towards the
firewall while torquing all the nuts. Torque
all the 8-mm nuts on the belt drive/alternator
stabilizer bracket to 16 ft-lbs. Then tighten
the lower alternator pivot nut on the
square headed bolt. This is easier from
under the car.

84. Plug in the knock sensor if it was
unplugged. The wire color is red with a blue
stripe.
85 . Run the main wiring harness along the
back of the engine block, over the top of
the main water pump supply pipe, and
locate it behind and around the thermostat
housing and under the 90o hose to oil separator.
This will allow the wiring harness
and intake manifold to co-exist without
interference. Illustration 7
86. Locate the original vacuum canister on
the under side of the factory intake manifold.
Remove the black vacuum switching
(IAB) valve from the vacuum canister. This
switching valve will not serve any function,
as there will be no vacuum hoses attached,
but MUST be plugged in. Plug the switching
valve back into the main wiring harness and
zip tie it to the main wiring harness toward
driver’s fender out of the way.
WARNING! Do not smoke during these
procedures.

Illustration 7

989-500 -8-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

87. Remove the fuel filter from the fire-
wall. First disconnect the hard fuel line.
Do NOT move or bend the hard fuel line.
Remove the two 10-mm bolts and the
one 10-mm nut holding the fuel filter
bracket to the firewall. Remove the fuel
filter and bracket assembly. The fuel filter
and bracket will be reinstalled.
88. Remove the throttle cable stabilizer
bracket mounted on the center of the fire-
wall by removing the 10-mm headed bolt.
The previous two instructions will provide
room to insert the supercharger down
into the engine compartment once the
supercharger intake manifold is in place.
89. Locate the air temperature sensor on
the factory intake manifold and install it
on the Jackson Racing intake manifold.
90. Locate the pressure switch supplied
with the kit. Wrap the threads of the pressure
switch in teflon tape. Install it on the
Jackson Racing intake manifold supplied
with the kit.
91. These next operations are best done
with two people, one on each side of the
car. It makes handling the supercharger
much easier.
NOTE: Lay the supercharger assembly
down into the back of the engine compartment
and allow it to rest on top of the
alternator. Illustration 8

92. Slide the new intake manifold on the
studs on the back of the cylinder head
and tighten the ten 12-mm nuts to 16 ftlbs.
93. Prior to bolting the supercharger to
the intake manifold, wrap the supercharger
drive belt around the super-charger
nose behind the drive pulley. This will
give you the most slack in the belt.
94. Center the supercharger gasket supplied
with kit on the flat lip, square hole,
of the supercharger. Lube the bypass
hose with WD40 for easier installation.
95. Lift the supercharger into place while
placing the free end of the bypass hose
over the nipple on the supercharger inlet
manifold.
96. Secure the supercharger to the intake
manifold using the four allen bolts supplied
in the kit. The two bolts nearest the
engine block need a small amount of blue
Loctite prior to installation. The Loctite will
dry quickly so install the bolts expeditiously,
however, be VERY careful not to
drop bolts into manifold runners! Tighten
all four bolts to 16 ft-lbs. It is this operation
that requires one person to hold the
supercharger in place while the other person
starts and then tightens all the bolts.
97. Wrap the pipe plugs provided in the
kit with teflon tape and screw them into
the top of the intake manifold covering
the two allen bolts just installed.
Illustration 8
989-500 -9-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

98. Looking up from under the car, check
that all the hoses and wires are routed so
they will not be chaffed by the supercharger.
Also make sure that everything is
clear of the oil filter so that it can be easily
removed for oil changes.
99. Wrap the 1/8 NPT x 3/8” barbed pipe
fitting with Teflon tape. Then screw it into
the bottom of the supercharger/throttle
body inlet manifold. This hose barb is for
the PCV valve hose and, on 96-99 models,
the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve “Tee”
and hose.
100. Get the PCV valve that came out of
the oil separator box and get the 18-inch
long, 3/8-inch diameter hose. Connect
them together before installing. Insert the
PCV valve into the oil separator box.
Route the hose out of the oil separator
box toward the driver’s side and down the
side of the oil separator box.
101. From under the car reinstall the oil
separator box to the back of the engine
block. From the passenger fender,
reconnect the original oil separator hose
back onto the engine block fitting.
102. Get the 3/8-inch hose that was routed
from the PCV valve along the side of
the oil separator box. Connect it to the
inlet fitting on the bottom of the throttle
body inlet manifold. If you have a 96-99
model, you will be installing a 3/8” vacuum
“Tee” in this hose. One end of the
“Tee” will supply manifold vacuum to the
oil separator. The other end will connect
to the “Purge Cut” valve supply fitting.
NOTE: Disregard instructions 101, 102,
and 103 if your vehicle is not equipped
with an oil cooler (98-99 USA).

103. Reinstall the oil cooler with one
coolant hose fitting on each side of the oil
pressure switch. The two coolant hose
fittings on the oil cooler should be in a 9
o’clock position relative to the previously
mentioned factory 12 o’clock position.
Install the oil cooler with the factory 30mm
(1 3/16”) bolt. Make sure the “O” ring
on the back of the oil cooler does not fall
out. Apply a small amount of grease to
the “O” ring to hold it in place.

104. Reusing the oil cooler hose that has
widest radius “U” bend, connect it to the
lower of the two oil cooler fittings and up
to the main water pipe fitting directly
above the oil cooler. Secure the hose
with the original hose clamps.
Illustration 9

Illustration 9
105. Using the 18" length, 1/2" diameter
hose supplied in the kit, attach it to the
upper oil cooler fitting and make a soft
loop attaching the other end to the
coolant fitting on the engine block, not the
water pipe, closest to the oil cooler.
Tighten with the hose clamps supplied
with the kit on both ends. Illustration #10
106. Plug the oil pressure switch back in.
989-500 -10-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

Illustration 10

107. Attach the supercharger support
bracket to the triangular upper support
bracket using the M8x40 bolt, one thick
spacer, one 8mm flat washer, and one M8
Nyloc Nut supplied. Fully tighten both of
the upper and lower support bracket bolts.
The supercharger support bracket must
NOT contact the alternator. If it does or if
it is not straight, remove the Flat Strap
Bracket and reinstall it correctly.
Illustration 10

108. Reinstall the oil filter or install a new
oil filter.
109. Reinstall the catalytic converter if it
was removed.
110. Reinstall the down pipe and support
bracket.
111. Reconnect the O2 sensor.
112. From above the car, connect the
original large diameter coolant hose to the
large brass fitting on the passenger end of
the intake manifold. Secure it with a new
#10 clamp.
113. Install the throttle body with the two
12-mm bolts hex bolts supplied in the kit
and two original bolts.
114. Attach the IAC valve to the manifold
with two 12-mm bolts of different lengths
that were removed in step 33.
115. Find the factory IAC hose from the
water supply pipe and connect it to the
IAC valve. Reconnect the IAC plug with
the new extension. The wire colors are
yellow with a black stripe and black with a
blue stripe.
116. Take the 12-inch long by 5/16” diameter
coolant hose supplied with the kit and
connect the hose from the vacant fitting
on the intake manifold near the #4 cylinder.
Connect the other end to the fast idle
valve mounted on the bottom of throttle
body. On ‘98-’99 models, disregard this
operation. Instead, install an 1/8” NPT
plug above the #4 cylinder. On the ‘98-’99
models, reconnect the original hose from
the cylinder head, near the distributor,
back onto the bottom of the throttle body’s
Fast Idle Valve.
117. Reinstall the double metal hoses by
reconnecting them to the coolant thermostat,
the new 4" long valve cover vent
hose, and the coolant hose coming from
the fitting on the engine block next to
the top radiator hose. The final open pipe
will be connected to the large rubber hose
from the air box when it is reinstalled.
118. If the vehicle has over 15,000 miles
on the fuel filter, replace the fuel filter now.
A new fuel filter should be available at
your local Acura dealer. Always use genuine
Acura filters when possible.
119. Reinstall the fuel filter and bracket.
120. Reconnect the charcoal canister
hose from the canister to the vacuum fitting
next to the Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensor on the throttle
body.
-11-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

121. Attach the Purge Cut Solenoid Valve
to the intake manifold mounting boss, on
the passenger side of manifold, with its
phillips head screw.
122. One of the remaining empty fittings
above the throttle body should have the
vacuum hose for the supercharger bypass
valve hose connected to it, the other
will have the Purge Valve (‘94-’95) connected
to it. If you have a ‘96-’99 model,
you will need to tee into the PCV hose
that was connected in step 102, to make
the Purge Valve work. Then cap the small
fitting next to the bypass hose with the
vacuum plug supplied.
123. Reconnect the Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) and Throttle Position
Switch (TPS) harnesses. Check the
color-codes for proper connections.
124. Reinstall the throttle cable support
bracket in the middle of the firewall.
Reconnect the throttle cable to the throttle
body and secure the throttle cable in
the support bracket. Check for full throttle
operation and for the throttle to come
back to the idle stop screw.
125. Reconnect the large diameter rubber
hose that connects the throttle body to
the air box. Secure the hose with the
original clamps.
126. Connect the remaining double metal
hose fitting into the large diameter rubber
hose.
127. Make sure all the belts are correctly
aligned on the ribs and pulleys.
128. Adjust the alternator belt tension by
loosening the idler pinch bolt on the lower
idler and adjusting with the tensioner
screw. Tighten until 90 -120 lbs. of belt
tension is available. (Plan on retightening
the belt after 5-15 minutes). Ninety
pounds of tension can be estimated by
when a foot long stretch of belt has a 3/8”
perpendicular deflection.
129. Do not over tighten the belt as it will
create excess load on the idler bearings
and shorten belt life. If you are not familiar
with belt tension, or you do not have a
belt tension gauge, refer to your factory
manual for proper belt tension sequence.
Complete by tightening the pinch bolt of
the idler from underneath car.
130. Finalize the supercharger belt tensioning
by installing the belt under the
idler pulley and attached slotted bracket.
Tighten the tension of the belt to ONLY
35 lbs. of belt tension by tightening the
10-mm headed tensioner bolt from the
slotted bracket. When the belt tension is
proper, tighten the two 12-mm headed
adjustment bolts and the 10-mm jam nut
on the tensioner bolt. This belt is very
short and does not need much tension as
it has very little area of rubber to stretch.
Longer belts stretch more than shorter
belts. Do not over-tighten either belt.
131. Reinstall the power steering and air
conditioning belts. Tighten the tension in
the power steering belt with the wing-nut
bolt. Tighten the two 12-mm bolts holding
the power steering pump. Tighten the
tension in the air conditioning belt.
Tighten the tension in these belts to 90120
lbs.
132. Install the fuel injectors into the fuel
rail.
133. Reinstall the three phenolic spacers,
or install the new ones provided in the kit,
over the holes for the bolts that hold the
fuel rail to the intake manifold. NOTE: To
help keep the spacers from falling off the
intake manifold holes, put a small amount
of grease on one side of the spacer and
then put that side down on the intake
manifold.
134. Reinstall the fuel rail and injectors.
Note: Be VERY careful not to knock anything
into the fuel injector holes! Tighten
the three 10-mm bolts supplied with the
kit securing the fuel rail to the intake
manifold.
989-500 -12-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

135. Install the fuel pressure regulator
adapter on the fuel rail with the “O” ring
supplied and two allen head bolts. Install
the fuel pressure regulator using the two
original 6 x 20-mm bolts and original “O”
ring. Attach a vacuum line to one of the
two barb fittings on the back of the intake
manifold.
136. Install the high pressure fuel hose
from the fuel filter to the fuel rail.
137. Clip the fuel injector plugs back on
the proper injector.
138. To install the Jackson Racing fuel
pressure regulator (Fuel Management
Unit or FMU), pull the small plastic tab
out of the firewall next to throttle cable
support bracket. Then screw a 10-mm
headed bolt supplied through the regulator
clamp and into the firewall leaving the
fittings facing the drivers fender in a horizontal
position.
139. Connect the CENTER fitting of the
regulator to the fuel return line from the
base of the firewall.
140. Connect the OUTER fitting on the
regulator to the original factory fuel pressure
regulator using the fuel hose supplied.
Clamp the hose with the new
clamps provided.
141. Reconnect the wiring harness’ gray
plugs in the corner of engine bay nearest
driver’s door. Make sure the harness will
not come into contact with any moving
parts. Refer to Illustration 1
142. Attach the vacuum line from the
Jackson Racing fuel pressure regulator to
the lower vacuum fitting on the back of
the intake manifold. Reinstall the brake
booster vacuum hose.
143. Reconnect the air temperature sensor.
144. Connect the Jackson Racing Fuel
Enrichment Relay supplied with the kit.
Locate the wiring harness and plug that
was plugged into the T/A (air temperature)
sensor. Cut the red wire with the
yellow stripe approximately 2 inches from
the plug. Connect the two new wiring harness’
red/yellow wires to the original red
wire with yellow stripe that was cut in
half. Route the remaining wires and relay
to the inner fender on the passenger side
of the engine compartment. Use a plastic
wire tie to secure the relay to the positive
battery cable where it is secured to a
wiring bracket mounted on the passenger
side inner fenderwell. Route the loose
wire, with the female spade connector, to
the pressure switch. Route the remaining
yellow/black wire up to the Purge Cut
Solenoid Valve wire harness. Using a “T-
Tap,” connect it to the yellow wire with
black stripe.
145. Refill the engine oil and coolant.
146. Reattach the negative ground to the
negative battery terminal.
147. Enter the alarm and radio codes to
activate each.
148. To ensure proper belt tension, run
the vehicle until it warms up. Recheck the
belt tension and readjust the tension back
to the proper level.
149. Check the tension in the belts every
10,000 miles.
150. While the engine is warmed up,
reset the ignition timing to 10o BTDC for
93 octane fuel, 7o BTDC for 92 octane
fuel.
989-500 -13-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

TIPS:

Now that you have added substantial power to your
Honda, here are some tips for best performance and
long life. Allow the engine to warm up for at least 3-5
miles before you start working the engine hard,
longer in extremely cold conditions as it will take a
substantial amount of time to get the oil warmed
completely to operating temperature. Running an
engine without the oil being up to operating temperature
is very hard on your engine. Install a good oil
cooler to keep your oil from getting too hot and from
breaking down prematurely. It makes sense that with
the additional power you are now generating from
your supercharger, ordering one of our oil cooler kits
will help maintain long engine life and provide additional
power.

Install one of our “Power Foam” air filters as a “dropin”
to your stock air box. It will improve air volume
and will keep the air extremely clean. In supercharged
engines, the cleaner the air flows in, the
better power it will make. The one thing you do not
want to do is make the supercharger have to pull
hard to get air.

Although the stock Honda exhaust system is very
good, a good header and cat-back system will help
relieve any back pressure. Keep in mind, in a supercharged
engine, as the air gets through the engine
better, the boost will actually go DOWN, but the
power will go UP! So, don’t be surprised if you start
improving the intake air and exhaust system and
your boost actually starts reading slightly lower than
it did when it was all stock. Conversely, if your catalytic
converter is starting to deteriorate, you will see
higher boost than normal, but, your engine willperform
poorly.

Keep your cooling system in good shape. Never run
more than 50% anti-freeze coolant to water ratio in
the engine, if possible. Water cools better than
coolant but does not have the high resistance to
boiling or ability to resist freezing. If you haven’t
replaced your thermostat and your car has over
30,000 miles on it, order one of our 160oF, low temperature
thermostat. It will keep the operating temperature
lower allowing better power and resistance
to detonation.

If your car has 70,000 miles or 7 years on it, you
might want to think about replacing your old radiator
with a new one from Honda. We have found that the

calcium deposit (from hard water) that collects on
the internal cooling tubes of old radiators will actually
insulate the hot coolant from the outside air, even
though the radiator still has good coolant flow. More
importantly, your stock coolant temperature gauge in
your car will move to normal when the coolant temperature
reaches a temperature near 160oF, but
your stock gauge will not show any change or movement
in temperature until the engine coolant temperature
reaches nearly 220oF. This means that you
could be trying to operate you supercharged engine
in a hostile environment that is 60o hotter than is
ideal.

Order a set or our colder spark plugs for summer
use. This, like the thermostat, will lower the combustion
chamber temperature allowing better power and
less chance of detonation in hot climates.

If you are forcing more air into the engine, you want
to ensure you have plenty of fuel. The stock fuel
pump works great when new for highway use.
However like a radiator, it can grow weak with age
and run out of volume in high demand, sustained
(racing) loads. Our high output fuel pumps are just
the ticket. Our fuel pumps fit in the original in-tank
bracket for ease of installation. The design is capable
of sustained high demand without loosing pressure.

Do not run “Upgrade Chips” in your supercharged
engine. Most “chips” have a more aggressive ignition-
timing curve. This is very counter-productive in
supercharged engines.

Do not run an after market cam-shaft with a supercharger
unless it has been specifically designed for
supercharging. Most non-supercharged high performance
camshafts depend on having both intake and
exhaust valves open at the same time to help fill the
cylinders. This, also, is counterproductive to superchargers.
Anytime that both valves are open the
boost goes out the exhaust port and will never be
seen again.

989-500 -14-Revised 03/07

Supercharger Installation Instructions

989-500 -15 Revised 03/07

Bill of Materials
GSR 989-500

051-696 BADGE, JACKSON RACING 2
051-109 PULLEY,ALT,DBL BELT 1
988-043 S/C SUPPORT BRACKET KIT 1
051-074 WASHER FLAT M8 1
051-135 BOLTFLNG M8X40X1.25 FULLTHRD1
051-186 NUT, HEX FLANGE M8-1.25 1
051-495 SPACER 21/64 X 1 X 0.5 1
051-505 BOLTFLANGED M8X25X1.25 12 AF1
051-421 BRKT ENGINE TO S/C BRACE 1
988-100 TENS,ASSY,UPPER 1
051-081 WASHER FLAT M10 1
051-093 SPACER .450 1
051-102 UPPER STRUT BELT DRIVE 1
051-103 ADJ PLATE, UPPER BELT 1
051-104 PIVOT NUT UPPER ADJ 1
051-105 ENG STRUT BRKT CYL HEAD 1
051-108 STAB BRKT ALT UPPER 1
051-627 PULLEY, IDLER, 2.0IN ASSEMBLED 1
051-117 SPACER ALT STAB BRK 2
051-119 BOLT,FLANGE,M6X1.0X10 1
051-120 BOLT HEXM6X1.0X60 1
051-184 STUD,SHOULDERED,8X40 1
051-124 SKT HD CAP SCW 8X30X1.25 1
051-185 STUD,SHOULDRD,8X50X1.25 1
051-127 BOLT FLANGED 8X20X1.25 2
051-186 NUT,FLANGED,8X1.25,12AF 3
051-083 BOLT FLANGED M10X1.25X20 1
051-359 NUT,STD,M6X1.0 1
051-727 BOLT, HEX FLANGE M10-1.25 X 401
988-101 TENS, ASSY, LOWER 1
051-080 NUT NYLOC M10X1.5 1
051-215 SHOULDER SPACER 1
051-106 CASTING ALT MOUNT 1
051-107 ADJ BOLT, LOWER IDLER 1
051-116 SPACER IDLER STD .680 1
051-206 BOLT HEX M6X1.0X70 1
051-187 WASHER FLAT 6MM 1
051-628 PULLEY, 2.5IN IDLER, PLASTIC 1
988-200 MANIFOLD ASSY, INTAKE 1
051-001 HOSE BARB 1/8NPT X5/16 1
051-095 INTAKE MANIFOLD, GSR 1
051-098 JR BYPASS VALVE 1
051-121 AHCS M6X1.0X16 4
051-132 BARB 5/8 3/8NPT 1
051-141 BARB HOSE 90 1/4NPTX3/8 1
051-142 HOSE BARB. 7/32 VACUUM 2
051-144 HOSE, SILICONE, 1.5 ID X 1.25 1
051-147 BOLT BYPASS 8X16X1.25 2
051-189 CLAMP, HOSE, MINI, 2INCH 2
051-503 BOLT M 8 X .075 X 10 WI PLUG 1
051-553 CLIP RETAINING 7/32 VACUUM 1
051-554 HOSE VACUUM 7/32X9IN. 1
051-529 GASKET, JR BYPASS-MANIFOLD 1
988-300 THROTTLE BDY INTAKE ASSY 1
051-096 S/C GEN3 M62CCW 4.0-4R 1
051-097 TB ADAPTOR, GSR & TYPE R 1
051-122 STUD 8X40X1.25 4
051-938 SPECIAL NUT 8X1.25 4
051-142 HOSE BARB. 7/32 VACUUM 2

051-422
051-528
988-400
051-091
051-231
051-137
051-138
051-139
051-140
051-143
051-152
051-190
051-191
988-500
051-493
051-101
161-615
161-620
161-630
356-525
051-497
051-192
988-600
989-505
051-121
051-146
051-193
988-702
051-016
220-136
051-527
988-800
051-194
052-010
051-723
051-198
051-200
051-201
051-202
051-473
051-196
051-197
051-199
988-900
051-133
051-134
051-135
051-203
051-204
051-205
051-066
988-950
051-118
051-131
051-135
051-207
051-110
051-263

BRACKET, UPPER S/C BRACE 1
GASKET,GEN3 S/C-TB ADAPTOR1
HOSE BAG 1
CLAMP 5/8 HOSE 4
HOSE, COOLANT, 5/16 X 18 1
HOSE PCV 3/8X4IN 1
HOSE FUEL,HP 1/4X20IN 2
HOSE VACUUM 5/32X16IN 2
HOSE HEATER 5/8IDX18IN 1
HOSE HEATER 1/2X18INCH 1
HOSE PCV 3/8X18INCH 2
CLAMP,HOSE,#6 1
CLAMP,HOSE,MINI,#4 4
ELECTRIC CONN KIT 1
PRESSURE SWITCH 1 PSI 1
RELAY VARIOUS 1
FEMALE SPADE CONN, 16-14 GA 1
MALE SPADE CONN, 16-14 GA. 1
T-TAP, 22-18 GAUGE WIRE 1
HONDA WIRING LOOM 1
TERMINAL ADAPTOR 1
EXTENSION FOR IAC WIRES 1
FUEL ACCESS KIT 1
AFPR - GSR/TYPE R 1
AHCS M6X1.0X16 2
ADAPTER BD FUEL REG 1
O-RING,M10X2.5 1
GASKETS - LOCTITE - ZIP TIES 1
CABLE TIE 8
REMOVABLE THREADLOCKER 1
GASKET, M62 S/C-MANIFOLD 1
INSTRUCTIONS & STICKERS 1
INSTRUCTIONS,ACURA GSR 1
STICKER, 92 OCTANE 1
CARB EO STICKER 1
STICKER,IAB VALVE 2
STICKER,KNOCK SENSOR 2
STICKER,THROTTLE POS 2
STICKER, MAP SENSOR 2
JR WARRANTY CARD 1
STICKER,AIR TEMP SENSOR 2
STICKER,IAC VALVE 2
STICKER,PURGE CUT SOL 2
PARTS KIT 1
BARB 3/8 1/8NPT 1
VACUUM TEE 3/8 1
BOLT FLANGED 8X40X1.25 1
PLUG,PIPE,1/8 1
SPACER, PHENOLIC 3
L-BRACKET 1
SCREW PHILLIPS M5X0.8X10 1
MANIFOLD HARDWARE 1
FLANGED BOLT 6X30X1.0 3
PIPEPLUG SCT HD 3/8 NPT 2
BOLT FLANGED 8X40X1.25 2
AHCS M8X1.25X25 4
BELT 4PK800 1
BELT 4PK620 1

051-151 VACUUM CAP 5/32 1 All parts indented come with the item above.

989-500 -16-Revised 03/07

988-300z
989-500 -17-Revised 03/07

989-500 -18-Revised 03/07

989-500 -19-Revised 03/07