9-02-06

I decided to replace my worn-out front bench seat with new split seats. The bench seat sucked, it gave me leg and back cramps. I found a nice set of red velvet seats at the junkyard, so I decided to grab the whole set. The front seats are poth power, they slide forward and back, the backrest tilts, the whole seat will go up and down, and each end can raise or lower independently. They also have cupholders in the armrests, and pockets in the back. Tha back seat has a center armrest (which mine lacked) with a storage compartment inside and a cupholder that folds out.

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To install split seats where a bench seat was is easy, all the bolt holes are there (except for one). The front bolts in the center of the car have the threaded hole already there, it's just hidden under the carpet. It can easily be found with a screwdriver. The rear center is a stud that has been broken off. You could have a new bolt welded there, or drill a hole. I put nothing there, it will work fine for now.

The wiring is really easy too (if you don't want the memory seat feature). There are about eight wires per seat. I photographed the installation of the passenger seat only (I installed the driver's seat in the dark). There isn't much difference.

First, the wiring harness. Solid colors are power and ground, I think you can figure out which is which. The red and yellow wires with tracers are the control wires. Just match them up. They will probably need to be extended. Use 10 or 12 gauge wire for the power and ground, 12, 14 or 16 for the controls (the driver side controls can use 18 gauge).

To start, remove the plastic covers on the side. Start with the one on the backrest, loosen the screw, then pull it up. There is a clip that holds it on. The side piece is held on by two screws. I put the controls in the side piece, if you want them somewhere else, you don't need to remove the covers. To install the buttons in the side, cut a rectangular hole, and run the wires through.

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Extend the wires on the control box to reach the wiring harness on the seat. Match up all of the wires, and solder together, shrink tube to insulate (put the shrink tube on first, I sometimes forget and it sucks) DO NOT USE ELECTRICAL TAPE!! that crap will come off. This is the best way to do 12 volt. Do not use crimp connectors, they may get hot and melt.

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Zip tie the wires together in several places so they are less likely to snag. Bolt in the seats, and push the control box into the hole that was cut. It will stick out a bit, you could wrap it in some trim (wood, brushed aluminum, whatever).

I used a mounting bolt as a ground. I stripped the wire back about an inch and a half, stuck it in the bolt hole and inserted the bolt. It's just temporary, but it does work.

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