I finally got tired of the factory subs and decided to yank them and the amps out for something better. I built a box for 4 - MB Quart subs to replace the stock subwoofer enclosure and amp rack. This will allow me to save what little bit of trunk the car has. And just to make mom happy I manage to install this box with out making a single hole in the car. I made some brackets out of metal flatstock that used existing holes and also allows me to drop the entire enclusure with 4 wing nuts for when I take her to the track again. When it is mounted it is solid enough to push the car with. I made a grill out of 1" tin coated steel that I made 2 gentle bends in. They start out flush with the box carpet and they are held in by 3 screws that were counted sunk. I would like to get these chromed so that they match the amp. I also mounted the 4 hex cross-overs on the box to allow me to loose more weight if I wanted to go to the track. The wiring needed to make the box removable was elaborate as I had 28 connections to keep straight between the 4 subs, and the 3 ways. I soldered two hrns's to allow for this. You can again see that all speaker wires were protected with tech flex.

Page 2 - how to bypass/integrate into the mach 460 stereo
Page 3 - Radar detector
page 4 - New wheels
Page 5 - Tail light tint
Page 6 - How to upgrade your big 3 power wires
page 7 - Sub woofer box, voltage display, dist block
page 8 - dynamatting the doors and the 6.5 speaker baffle/enclosure
page 9 - amp rack
page 10 - kick panels
page 11 - details page
page 12 - I like pizza

The top is the factory box, the bottom is mine of course.

I had an old dakota digital amp current meter kit that I had been planning on using in my truck some time ago. When I found it I thought maybe I could find someplace for it in the mustang. I decided to match it up with a voltage display and a couple of LED's that are used for the alarm and to monitor the amp status. The blue led on the top is for the alarm, the two on the bottom are dual colored for the amp status. They are blue when the amp is on and will turn to red if on shuts off. I put the alarm LED on top on purpose as I use the factory cassette faceplate to cover this display when I park and do not want it to be seen. I wrapped the display in aluminum to help to seperate the plexi from the dash as well as to give it a nicer look. Behind the display is terminal blocks for all my power needs. I also molded the trim ring for the alpine into the dash and mounted the deck from the back. This lets the deck flow into the dash a little better.

This was the face to the stock stereo. I noticed that it came off with only 2 screws and had not planned on using it. I decided that I could use it as a fake cover for my voltage/current display when I didn't want it to be viewed. I mounted the security led toward the top and in the middle so that when the led flashed it lit up the cassette door. I took off the sticker that said Ford and Dolby B and my brother hooked me up with a custom decal. The F-off flashes with the alarm now. Of course it is hard to get a good shot of it but it came out nice looking. Now anyone that were to really look in and take a close look will hopefully take the advise seriously.

I needed a Dist-block for the two amps that I plan on running. With a little bit of work I was able to put it in the center consol and still keep a factory look with a removable panel. This shot is with the panel in place.

I needed to raise the block up a little in order to run the wires under it. I thought that with a little plexi and some LED's that it could look pretty cool. I put in a micro switch to turn the led's on and off when the consol opens that will be hidden under a factory rubber stoper. The fuse block also has led's in it that light up to let you know if the fuse is blown or not, as well as a neat voltage display featurn that I use on the dash display along with the amp current meter.

Thanks for checking the momstang out and reading my mindless babble...

Page 2 - how to bypass/integrate into the mach 460 stereo
Page 3 - Radar detector
page 4 - New wheels
Page 5 - Tail light tint
Page 6 - How to upgrade your big 3 power wires
page 7 - you are here
page 8 - dynamatting the doors and the 6.5 speaker baffle/enclosure
page 9 - amp rack
page 10 - kick panels
page 11 - details page
page 12 - nothin here