Vehicle Owner

Member ID: ACAutoWerks

Location: Alanson, MI

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Vehicle Info

1989 Ford Probe

Bragging Rights

  • 1/4 Mile0 sec @ -1 mph
  • 0-600sec
  • Top Speed142mph
  • HP285
  • Weight2940lbs

Major Upgrades

  • turbo
  • nitrous
  • bore increase
  • port and polish
  • supercharger
  • extrude honed
  • stroke increase
  • engine swap

Modifications

Performance Parts

Interior

  • MOMO Steering Wheel 
  • MOMO Pedals 
  • MOMO Shift Knob 
  • Bride Seats 

Exterior Styling

Car Audio & Video

Ratings

    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.
    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.
    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.
    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.
    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.
    • Currently 4.3/5 Stars.

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Last updated: Nov 08, 2009

Hits: 73,840

Adam’s Ford Probe
“2MCHWRK”

  • Currently 4.2767346938775 /5 Stars.
602 guestbook comments

This is my, How To, page.

I've had a few questions on how I have built some pieces.

1: How to build a rear bumper 

2: fenders and quarter panels.

3: How to build a strut bar.

 

This winter, I am re-building the rear of my car.

Jan 8, 2009 I started with a carbon fiber rear diffuser.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I mounted it up under the rear of the car with custom made aluminum brackets.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

I then wanted to change the look of the rear bumper to make the rear of the car flow better. This is where time and planning take place.

I started by drawing what I wanted the car to look like.

Then I started making a 3-D mold on the car out of 2" insulating foam.

 ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

The whole mold was screwed together to make it ridgid enough to be removed from the car.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

To be able to fiberglass over the mold, I then wraped the foam in duck tape, usually 3 layers.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I then sprayed the whole thing in a good layer of wd-40 to release the fiberglass. Vaseline or heavy wax will work too.

When making body panels, I use fiberglass cloth instead of mat because it lays flatter and is easier to finish.

Usually 3 layers is strong enough, since you will be doing filler work which adds strength.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

After making the fiberglass mold, now comes the finishing. If you spend more time making the mold, there is less finish work with filler and makes the new part lighter!!

Along with finishing, I wanted to ad a little spice to the bumper. So I decided to finish the raised area in the center with 2x2 twill carbon fiber to match my splitters, rear diffuser, and gt wing.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

This is where I am right now.... Jan 2009.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I finished the bumper...... Feb  2009

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Building the front fenders/ quarter panels.....

First I started by drawing the car how I wanted it to look.

I then cut 3/4 foam to the shapes that I needed and mouted them on the car.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I also wanted to have the Z-3 fender grills. So I bought universal fiberglass ones and mounted them in their new location.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

After the foam was where it needed to be, then came the duct tape to give the new molds the shape they need. This is the hardest part, getting both sides to be the same shape and angle.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I also taped over the Z-3 scoops so they can be used again.

Now that the tape is on there, make sure that there are enough layers so that it can support the fiberglass that is going to be aplied over it. Without warping so the shape doesn't change!!

Also, another tip. Use a sharpie to outline the edges of the fender/bumper, where they meet. The sharpie will transfer onto the back of the fiberglass and will give a guide on where to seperate/cut the pieces later.

With the tape done, now put a good coat of wd-40 for a release barrier for the fiberglass.You may want to stay away from the sharpie line, it will come off or move with the wd-40!!

Now, glass the whole thing with 3 layers of CLOTH.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

With the glass mold done, remove it from the car and discard all of the tape and foam.

Cut the fender pieces from the bumper piece. Take time so the edges are straght and where they need to be. Saves time later.

I then molded the new pieces to the factory fenders. Rivet the glass panels to the factory metal and mold the edges. Then you can cut any extra metal out from the back of your new piece.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

Instead of molding to the factory fender...........

You can also mold the mounting locations on the new glass piece so it is it's own self standing panel. This is harder to do because all the mounting locations have to match up perfect and have to be strong.

Now comes the finishing!!!!!

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

This process is the same for the quarter panels.....

Make your foam shapes, cover in tape, mount on the car, and finish.

The right way to make the panels, fenders/ quarters, is out of sheet metal and weld together all of the pieces. Not everyone has the tools to do that though. This glass process can be done with patience and in your own driveway with tools from the local hardware shop!!!!

-------------------------------------------------

I have made my own front upper strut bar.

I decided to go with 304 stainless, it polishes up nice and is hastle free.

First, I looked at a few other company's designs for insperation.

I then picked a style that would work for me.

I like to work with stainless steel, I love to tig weld!!!

First i started by making my upper strut mounts. 3/16" flat stainless.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I trimed them up so they look nice and clean after they are welded up.

Then mount in the car and measure for the cross bar/ cut to fit and weld in place. Then remove and finish weld on the bench.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

I then measured for the angle piece, cut and welded in place.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

I wanted to dress it up a bit, so I took some 16ga. stainless flat and cut pieces for the top of the angle brace.

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

The finished product polished up!!! Weighs in under 4lb's and is tough as hell!

ACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford ProbeACAutoWerks's 1989 Ford Probe

 

This can be done out of mild steel with a torch and a simple 150 amp mig welder. Intermediate skills..

Guestbook Ratings

Displaying entries 1-5 of 602

bennel  

Posted by: bennel

12/17/2009 09:06PM

nice probe !have to slam you 5*s !!i like the bodykit !

C_Mepurrrrr  

Posted by: C_Mepurrrrr

12/17/2009 05:23PM

Nice 5 stars

slow_whity  

Posted by: slow_whity

12/17/2009 03:47PM

the work you have done on that thing is amazing good job 5 big stars nice paint work too

hodzic  

Posted by: hodzic

12/16/2009 06:55PM

WOW 5* STARS ON THE RIDE.KEEP ME POSTED ON THE PROGRESS AND UPDATES.BTWHELP ME AND MY CUSTOM GT350 GET NOMINATED FOR SHOWOFF OF THE WEEK.I WOULD APPRECIATE ALL YOUR HELP.THANK YOU

justabird  

Posted by: justabird

12/16/2009 05:45PM

Hitcha the showoff nom too.

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Vehicle Owner

Member ID: ACAutoWerks

Location: Alanson, MI