It's now mid October.  The roll bar was modified by HFR fabrications (the original creator).  The inertia reel pads now angle down and forward 15 degrees off of vertical.  The tail light harness has been replaced solving the mystery of the brake light/turn signals only working when the lights were off.  Turns out the two circuits were crossed in the metal sockets!  That's right, it was one of those reproduction tail light harnesses where you have to re-use your old sockets.  I didn't think it mattered which button went to which wire as one was black and I wrongly assumed that meant ground.  Yep, shoulda used a wiring diagram!  The new harness came with the sockets already installed, and it was the one for the safety and convenience group.  About the only real difference is it has a wire for the trunk light, and the fuel sender lead has a disconnect.  It should have also had a second wire for the low fuel light, but since I don't actually have a low fuel light (yet), I guess it doesn't really matter too much.

This is the first design. It's modeled after the Shelby bar, but extends all the way to the floor to be welded. The modified bar is installed, but not welded in yet.  I chipped the corner off of the driver side shelby boot, and now I'll have to order another one.  The boot has to be installed before it gets welded together as it completely encircles the bar.  All the little details take so much time to sort out!

Here's a shot of the driver's side gauges.

I averaged 17mpg on a road trip to Carlisile PA with mixed highway and stop and go driving.  I went 204 miles just to have lunch, turned around and came back home.  

The end (rear end that is) 

I had several requests to show how I set up the 'vette PBR calipers on Wilwood aluminum hubs, so here are a couple of shots to show how I did it.

1.  Using either a Granada or 1970 up  disc brake spindle forging, remove the factory caliper mounting bracket and dust shield.  It's best to use the OEM 14mm bolts from the 'vette to mount the basket to the spindle.  You will need to drill the lower caliper mounting hole out to 37/64ths".    

The spacer in the pic is just for reference. The actual spacer is approx 5/8" long.  The actual length of the spacer is determined by the offset of the rotor.  Mount the rotor to the hub, and place the hub on the spindle.  Then mount the loaded caliper in the basket.  It's a floating caliper design, so center it in the basket, and center the basket over the rotor.  Then just measure from the inside face of the basket to the inside face of the lower caliper bracket boss on the spindle to determine the length of the lower spacer.

With the bottom bolted together, use a piece of corrugated cardboard as a spacer on top of the rotor to ensure adequate clearance between the top of the rotor and the caliper.  Lay the loaded caliper over the rotor taking care not to crush the cardboard.  The easiest way to determine the relationship of the two holes is to use a 3/16" angle iron bracket.  Make a spacer that is the same width as the lower spacer plus the thickness of the boss.  This is so you can use the OEM PBR basket mounting bolts on both the upper and lower mounting holes.  You will need to use a shorter 14mm bolt to determine where the upper basket bolt intersects the angle bracket.  

Insert the short 14mm bolt in the basket and clamp the L bracket to the spindle.  It's not critical at this point how close the angle bracket is to the basket, so long as the upper spacer will pass through it completely.  Back the bolt out so that it is flush against the L bracket and mark all the sides of the bolt head on the bracket.  Find the center of the bolt head and drill out a hole large enough so that the spacer fits inside.  Next, remove the clamp and mark the center of the hole on the other face of the L bracket.  I used spray paint to mark the L bracket through the upper spindle hole.  Drill this out to 37/64ths for the 70 up Mustang spindle and 33/64ths for a Granada spindle.  After everything is lined up and tightened, weld the spacer to the L bracket.  I also added a piece of steel to tie the two spacers together so it's all one assembly.  

If you're really into looks, and/or you're not a competent welder, take what you made to a machine shop and have them make you one out of a single piece of steel.  I can't remember how much that cost off hand, but it wasn't cheap!  Ultimately, I had to make a small change so I ended up fabricating the next set.  They've held up to two open track sessions and a couple of panic stops in addition to normal every day use.

The optimum rotor size for this caliper position is 12 3/16ths x 1.25, which is readily available from several circle track vendors.