Installation took approximately 3 months of different phases of progression. With 100,000 miles on the G at this point there was some servicing to the engine needed before any boost is applied.

Service the engine was phase 1 where compression was checked, head was disassembled and gone over to make sure factory specs were maintained (done by my cousin Stacy Brown for those into local stock car racing). I changed the timing belt, balance shaft belt, all pulleys and tensioner, checked that the seals were not leaking at all on the cam or crank and finished up by cleaning the belt side of the motor. I replaced anything wearable on the steering and suspension (tie rods inner/outer, bushings and wheel studs). I did not take many pictures of this and was a little nerve-racking on how important I did everything right the first time (not that I mean to rush through projects, but I do).

Phase 2 was fuel delivery upgrades and management installation. OBX fuel rail was “enlarged” to fit the injectors, along with upgraded fuel pump. Pressure is maintained through an OBX FPR, I will be eventually replacing with Areomotive 1:1 FPR. Injectors are Lucas 450cc/min, high-impedance injectors.

What a pain in the a*$! I guess 13mm is different in China. Oh well.

Fuel rail, FPR, and injector assembly.....

Then after disassembling again to "fit it" to the intake manifold.

Injectors, manifold and throttle body assembly. This took one night for me to put together and another day to check and tune. The hardest part was having to bore out the fuel rail 13mm in width for the injector, and about 16mm depth to properly seat the top of the injectors. The main reason is the very high fuel pressure that will be maintained by the new fuel upgrades. The fuel pump also needed fabricating to fit into the ass-backwards setup Mitsubishi put into these Galants.

After I got the manifold together and all the lines connected, I re-flashed the vehicle with the correct fuel injector scaling and a tweak to the Injector Voltage Latency. The car took some time to relearn the ignition and fuel adjustments but can now run rich without using the AFC to tune the injectors. I had to build a mount for the Fuel Pressure Riser.

Here is a picture of the knock sensor I will be adding for the added engine protection.

Opened up the front 2 air dams on both sides of the Galant. The oil cooler needs fresh air to work efficiently. Getting a body kit would be the best bet, although living in my area of PA sucks because of crappy roads. I had nothing but problems with paint on any ABS or fiberglass, no matter how much bonding or flex agent you add. I am not showing this car and is just for fun, so this is what I came up with for an answer. Will also be opening the bumper area underneath the fog-light grill for better air flow.

I have a plastic molding tool to cut the plastic without warping. I have forever scratched every vehicle I've owned with Dremels or roto-tools; although I burn myself at least once every "molding" project.

This is after opening the area behind the vent.

Sizing up the blow-off-valve for welding, both are pretty close in thickness and steel makeup.

But I still managed to F*&k up the weld, so 2 hours of welding and grinding, I'm left with a slightly heat warped BOV. NOTE! Don't set the mig to "what the chart said", get some extra stock to test your weld on. Figured if I wrote this, it might sink in...

Ok, after driving the Galant for 3 days I MUST mention that the fuel system is OUTSTANDING!!! It lost the leaned out popping sound when I get off the gas, it did sound pretty cool. BUT! the fuel system smoothed out the entire power band, smoother power transitioning between shifts, smoother idle at off the throttle coasting, and deeper/richer exhaust tone and more fuel at partial throttle.

I will have to replace all the coolant lines that run to the throttle body and the far end of the intake manifold. I am willing to bet that they were never touched before because of not having scratch marks from removing the spring clamps from the connectors (I wanted to say nipple, he he). So when I did they all have slow drips. Same thing happened to the hose when I flushed the radiator.

Also the AFC NEO was installed, but not used until turbo was installed. I intentionally wanted to get the car tuned via ECU, and use the AFC for fine tuning AFR under boost which is also adjustable.

I run a considerably high fuel pressure and is working fine with the injector setup I am running. Most run into an issue with using FPR’s that are not rising rate, although I feel the high impedance injectors work fine if the ECU is reprogrammed for them. High impedance (or injectors that function at battery power) have a stronger reaction than say low impedance injector (injectors that function from 3-5 volts, or lower than battery voltage). The solenoid structure of the low impedance injectors are light weight due to the electro/magnetical structuring of them. Less voltage = less mass to move, and less mass to move = faster/more accurate control of fuel. But is less tolerant to running over the injectors’ benchmark pressure, but is still the choice of most turbo-charged vehicles. I managed to get a good tune on the injector latency and tuning in the injector value to keep from running a rich/erratic idle, also keeping a liner fuel delivery during boost. 

UPDATE! I ended up getting a rising rate FPR and it works better than the liner FPR. Considering the fact that the puel pump is keeping the system under so much pressure, it makes total sence to utilize it and let the FPR to referance boost pressures to compensate on spot.

This is the beater car I get to use while I build and eventually purchased after the Galant was finished. It is the next project!!! 

Here is a picture of my father and his Bourget Street Bob. I also tweak bikes...

Page 1 - Intro & Parts list
Page 2 - You are here! (Fuel/Oil cooler/Knock sensor-light install)
Page 3 - APEX'i ITC install/Oil cooler/Tweaks
Page 4 - Adj. Cam Gear/Turbo/FMIC/Coolers install
Page 5 - Random Pictures/Carbon Fiber/Modification list
Page 6 - Hahn Racecraft/EVO manifold/Meagan carbon fiber muffler
Page 7 - Tuning concepts and APEX'i settings