Well it's pretty exciting. I went to the junkyard last weekend and got a bunch of parts that I needed, and this coming weekend i'll be picking up the rest. I'm going to rebuild the transmission then drop it in. Since i've seen no documented Manual Tranmission swaps for the i4 Camry I'll make sure I take plenty of pics. I opted for the S51 transmission vs the E153 because of it's gearing. I don't plan on topping out the car, so I don't need the lower differential gear ratio of the E153 and the S51 has a higher 1st gear ratio. This will result in quicker acceleration than the E153, and I'm pretty certain it should be able to handle the extra 70hp of the turbo setup. It is also a lighter transmission.
Here's what I have so far:
-- Junkyard : $430
-- Shifter assembly from a '95 camry - $15
-- Brake pedal from '95 manual camry - $15
-- Clutch Pedal from '95 - $15 make sure you take the nuts and bolts, you'll need them.
-- Clutch Cylinder - $20
-- Hydraulic lines for Clutch Cylinder - $10
-- Boot & shift knob from '94 - $10
-- Transmission (S51) - $325
-- Shifter Cables - $20
-- Arch Piece From Console - $0
-- Tranmission Mount - $0
What I still need:
-- Clutch Kit
-- Rebuild Tools Bearings ETC.
I'll have pics up soon
Shifter Assembly: In order to prevent rust from spreading, and getting worse i decided to clean up the shifter assembly. I popped out the metal grommets that go through the rubber bumpers, and disconnected the top portion of the assembly. Then, using a wire brush, I brushed off all the rust. I then came back with sandpaper, and cleaned up the surface. I washed it with dishsoap and water, dried it then primed it.
As for the top portion using the wire brush and sandpaper i took off the rust then oiled it up. The same for the metal gromets.
Center Bracket: For the same reason and in the same method as above I cleaned up the bracket from the center console.
Shift Boot & Knob: From the junkyard these were gray, dirty, faded, and covered with mildue. To fix this i gave both items a good scrub down with dishsoap and water to get all the dirt off. Once dried I came back and painted with Vinyl/Fabric Paint which is available at your local auto parts store. You may note in the shot of the boot it's cracking. I did what I could to see if i could make it crack didn't do anything until i twisted it multiple times and used a lot of energy. I am going to touch it up with shoe die. Once coated I came back with shoe polish on the boot and polished it up, and then armorall for the bezel. He're what I've got.
They look as good as new minus the cracks on the boot which would not have occured under normal ware situations.
Brake Pedal : This is a pretty simple task. You will have to remove the lower dash which will require 10mm and 12mm sockets. Pulling the pedal is as easy as remove the four nuts that hold it to the master cylinder, and the bolt at the top that holds it to the frame. There is also a pin that connects the pedal to the master cylinder. You will be required to remove your air cleaner, and disconnect and push down the canister just below and behind the master cylinder, so that you can push it back to replace the pedal. Remove your old brake pedal and unscrew the brake light switch from it adjusting it as little as possible. Install the switch into the new brake pedal (the switch from the manual only has a 2 prong connector vs the 4 that the auto has), and put back the pedal like it came out.
Clutch Pedal: For this you'll need a 3/8" drill bit, and a 1 1/2" metal hole saw bit. On the inside of the car you will notice a cut out in the firewall the shape of the clutch pedal connectors. Just behind that is set of indentations. The outer two holes will be drilled out with the 3/8" bit, and the center hole with the 1.5" hole saw. put the master cylinder on the engine bay side and slide the pedal in. Bolt it up to the cylinder, there's already a threaded hole in the frame for the top, and you will also find a threaded rod coming out of the body under another firewall cutout.