Now for the engine and tranny install.
The 1.9L LL0 DOHC engine I'm transplanting into the wagon with it's 120,869km's:
Here's a pic of the engine with some chrome goodies:
Engine and tranny going in!
To keep things simple, we swapped the wagon's original 95 auto wiring harness onto the 94 manual engine tranny.
There's a different EGR valve: 94 was vacuum, 95 is electronic, so you'll end up with an unused vacuum line coming out of the top of the TB, but also, the tranny's wiring harness is slightly different. It won't have a seperate plug for the reverse/backup lights: the auto's is integrated into the tranny, whereas the manual has an easily visible external switch.
One side of the switch receives a 12 volt signal from the underhood fusebox's backup light fuse, and the other side of the switch connects to wires that go directly to the backup lights in the back.
In order to get the manual tranny's BU switch to connect to the auto tranny's wiring harness, located the only 6 pin connector that normally went to the auto tranny. Pin E is the wire going to the BU lights, while Pin F carries the 12v power from the fusepanel.
I soldered those 2 wires to the BU switch, and now I have working backup lights.
Also, another thing that needs to be done with the wiring harness is the 2 pink wires need to be connected to each other. They normally connect to the auto tranny's Neutral Safety Switch so the starter can only activate while the tranny is in neutral (or park), but a manual tranny doesn't have this. If you *really* want to, you could connect this to the neutral/clutch safety switch on the clutch pedal assembly, but if you do this, you won't have to step on the clutch to start the car :)
Here's a pic of the wires, in the middle of the wire-tracing process, and you can see the 1/0g ground wires GM side post adapter on the right side:
And now for some short throw shifter loving. It was made by coppertop. The handle is shortened by 2", properly lenghtened beneath the shift point, and very strong. Also has the proper notches along with the "D" shaped shaft to hold the stock shift knob in place firmly.
Here's pics of it in the console:
Now with the AC removed, you can no longer get the radiator fan to turn on when you turn on AC to "on" inside the car. But, if you simply bridge the wires which used to connect to the AC pressure switch, you can get this feature back!
I just snipped off the connector and soldered them together:
Emissions test results. Not bad for an original cat if you ask me. Engine could have been warmer, but oh well, it passed, and that's all that matters to me :D
More to be added later on