------------------------------ This is the parts installation page. ------------------------------

I will try to give as much detail as needed to keep it short and simple. If you need more, just message me.

-------------------- Bull Bar Installation: --------------------

***** REMOVED BUT WILL KEEP UP FOR THOSE WHO STILL WANT TO SEE IT :) *****

Say goodbye to the tow hooks and front license plate! Hell, I never used either of 'em anyway!

Bull bar mounting bracket:

Another shot of the bracket:

Both installed:

Rough centering and fine tuning:

Done!

-------------------- KC Slimlites Installation: --------------------

Most would run and scream in fear if one encountered this pile of wiring. 'Course this is after I cleaned them up with zip ties to ease in snaking them through the engine bay. The preterminated wires were a little too short to provide a clean look so I added where it needed to be added and I'm very happy I did that. Doesn't look like some fool who didn't care enough about his vehicle to make it look decent.

Lights fresh out of the box.

Removed skid plate for easier access.

Here's a tech tip for some. Need to bolt something through a hole barely the size of the washer while going upward and the washer/lockwasher/bolt won't stay on the ratchet? Scotch tape. The cuz of duct tape. Something called backyard ingenuity.

Bar is ready to accept the lights.

Lights roughed in.

I chose to mount the switch that came with it on the lower dash to finish the install. I may remount later or use a different switch somewhere else but for right now it works.

Finished product!

Another finished shot and confirming they are Slimlites.

-------------------- Bushwacker OE Flender Flare Installation: --------------------

Chrome is nice but I've got other plans for this truck and it doesn't involve much of it. Plus I haven't seen many stepsides with flares which is why I am doing it. Looks WAY better and tougher!

That was under there?! :P Look at that gunk in the front.

Instructions say no-drill installation. Yeah, and my grandma is Betty Crocker. Should say, at least, minimal drilling.

I lightly rounded the corners for more of an exact fit.

Peeled back the tape...

On corners too sharp for the molding I just pie-cut it and moved on. Once, maybe twice I had to do this to make it fit. I am absolutly sure the "experts" do the same thing.

I didn't really trust the screws they supplied so I just got some self-tapping screws and problem solved.

See? I know it'll hold alot better now.

One done, 3 to go!

Before:

After:

The rear went on better but, sorry, no pics. I was on a roll and forgot to take the pictures! Either way it's this times 4. EDIT: After these were taken I ended up painting them.

-------------------- Painted mirrors (6/3/07): --------------------

Taped up the parts I didn't want painted and sanded down the pretty chrome. Came out metallic lookin'. If you like the look go for it. I used about 600 grit sandpaper.

Paint drying before sanding and clearcoat and final product.

Installed closeup picture.

-------------------- Fire & Ice L.E.D. Light Bar (9/3/07): --------------------

Works best if you take off the tailgate.

Bar is ready and out of the box.

For those of you are still using the pull-n-strip or whatever it's called, upgrade yourself to a automatic stripper. I tell you what it is money well spent!!!

Bought a four plug harness from Napa. You'll see why in a bit.

I located the wires I need to use and cut and stripped them. Disconnect your battery before doing that! Just a safety precaution.

Here is where I didn't want to get lazy. Many people would do: t-snaps (should never have been invented, IMO), a wire nut, crimp, or just taped it up. No sir, not me! I did it the way I think all people should do for a safe and reliable connection, especially if it is going to be outside. Heat shink (if you can find the kind that have extra adhesive inside, use that!), solder it, and something to melt it with (lighter or small torch). I wanted to do this once and only once and won't have to worry about the lights breaking down on me. Seriously, it takes just as much time as anything else!

Word to the wise. Space out the connections so it fits in the wire loom. Here it is all taped up with Super 33+ tape, not a cheap imitation that is going to unravel itself. The white wire you see going towards the front is the backup function of the lights. Let me tell you it is bright!

This is why I put in the 4-way. I can still use my factory GM 7-pin connector and have this plugged in. It works great if you have any doubts. It's the only way it will work, actually. Plus If I ever wanted to lose the light bar I just have to disconnect the plug and I'm done!

Sittin' nice and tucked away. Feels nice that I only have to do this once!

You'd never tell I hardwired the sucker in! Whaddya think?

-------------------- Blaupunkt Speaker Install: --------------------

Took the door off.

The inside in all of it's stock glory. I'm about to change all that!

AHHH! Stock speaker! Where's the trash can?!

Much better! The best Blaupunkt speakers to get. Model: THX652. Don't let the small magnets fool you. These pack a punch!

I had some (make that lots of) Spark Guard left over from when I put in my AC Delco Iridium plugs and MSD wire. Basically just repackaged dielectric grease. I use this at every place where there is going to be an electrical connection. An absolute must if you ask me!

As I said before I want to do this only once and also to have a professional looking install. I heat-shrunk the connections. This is, in fact, a Metra piece: 72-4568. Made the install more factory installed looking.

Dipped the connector in the grease.

Another Metra piece: 82-3002. Fanastic fit! They know how to make their products!

Speaker in door with Hushmat surrounding it.

I wasn't lucky to have a Metra connector for the rear speakers. But no worries I just stripped it and heat-shrunk it and did the same for the connectors to the speaker. Also added the Hushmat to the rear speakers as well.

Kind of a sideways look of the speaker installed. Model: THX462

Inside of the cab and bed being used as a work table. Note: if you noticed the pull-n-strip tool I used it ONLY for crimping as it's the only thing it is good at.

The only indication I'm packin' some serious sound.

-------------------- More Coming Soon!!! --------------------

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