Hemiplus’s 2005 Dodge Ram 1500 Regular Cab

This is what the truck looked like bone stock. I decided I wanted a 2005 about two months after the 06's were being built. I finally found the truck exactly the way I wanted it optioned out, only problem was it was in Florida. Long story short, 1468 miles later I had it in my driveway. It had 8 miles on it when I got there to pick it up.

SP Performance Diamond Slotted rotors painted red. I painted the calipers when I replaced the rotors. I started painting some of the smaller pieces under the hood. What the driver gets to see. New SRT-10 seats, I still have to change the headrests. Intro Ram 5's 20x10's with Nitto 420S 305/50-20's. My stock rim and tires vs new ones. Bedrug and tonneau liner match perfectly. I put LED lights under the bed rails. Here are the old stock pedals and my new Ford Harley Davidson Edition F-150 pedals. These are the front and rear sway bars which were powder coated red and my drop spindles were powder coated black. The spindles were part of the 2/4 lowering kit. This is my Dynatech Headers and cats coated. This is my custom exhaust past the cats with Flowmaster Super 40. I have since built another middle section with an Original 40 and a manual cutout. Here are the badges that didn't make it past day 2. I removed the tow hooks and put in this custom lower grill. And here are the headlights comparing the stock ones vs. the new ones with clear corners. This is a picture comparing full wheel well liners vs the stock ones and a picture of the liners installed. The clips and fasteners for the liners bothered me after I put them on so I took them off and painted them. I painted all the fasteners and clips all around the truck similar to these. New Taylor 8.2v Red Shorty Plug Wires Inside of the cab I started adding some more silver. I also installed an SRT-10 push button start. Intro Ram 5's Wheels, Nitto NT420S 305/50-20 and a Yorkie 2600 stall Edge torque converter and PML deep transmission pan. My Dynojet Wideband Commander kit.

I was going after a muscular looking truck without copying the SRT-10 look. I have done all of the work with the exception of some of the paint and body. The truck has been through various stages of modification in the last couple of years. The sound system is still being worked on as time allows, but progress has slowed.

This page, as well as the sound system, is under construction. I will be updating this page quite often until the sound system is done. This page will show you most of the parts that I intend on using. Page 5 will show the installation as it happens.I've collected most of what I plan on using for the sound system. I still have some speakers and an electronic eq to get. I recently picked up two JL Audio 10W6v2-D4's and a 1000/1 amp. JL Audio Slash Series Amps 1000/1 and two 300/2's. I just got the main speakers. ZR650-Csi's PPI FRX-322 Crossover Banana plug posts which will be used for the sub box. I have some Q-Logic kick panels that I might use. I'm not impressed with these so I might custom make my own. I will upgrade the battery terminals and wires at some point in time. These will give me a good starting place. Starting off the install will be a couple days of sound dampening. Sub and 6.5 inch midbass Lots of wire loom Steering Wheel Interface

I removed the package tray, and this is what it looks like behind seats with the tray removed. Here is all the B-Pillar trim pieces, and what the B-Pillar looks like with the trim removed. Back wall trim piece, very thin and no sound dampening, and the back wall with no sound deadening at all. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the center seat shoulder belt mounting bracket. That left bare metal but a flat surface to work with. I painted over the bare metal. Next I taped over the vents and spent two hours deciding if I could seal them off. I opened and closed the doors for two hours straight. I decided the vents were going away and then I made some patch panels. The outside was painted red. The patch panels are in. They will be covered in sound dampening and completely covered when all is done. I started in on the dash to see what wires were there. The worked on the wiring harness and it is now ready for the change over. I also mocked up the faceplate and head unit and fitted everything to the way I like. Then everything was removed and the stock put back in place. The head unit, bezel, and wiring harness is now ready for the final install. I tore into the doors and made some adapter plates. I will be replacing the 6x9 factory speakers with 6.5" midbass woofers in the doors. The adapter plates were made out of high density 1/4" thick MDF. I then painted the adapter plates flat black and checked to see what they looked like installed. Then they were taken out and the stock speakers were put back in. The door speakers are now ready to be installed when the time comes. From the factory the roof had two pieces of mat thrown on them. I matted the entire thing using Rammatt and B-Quiet. Then I covered the whole thing with Ensolite and put the headliner back in. I matted the entire floor board and back wall with multiple layers. A layer of Ensolite covered the floor. All the stock wiring was kept above the sound dampening. Then I started laying out the sound system wiring. I loomed the wires, cut a relief in the factory carpet, and reinstalled the carpet. The B-pillars were a pain and I put a lot of sound dampening inside them and then covered them in Ensolite. I concentrated the majority of the door matting on the inside. Then I reinstalled the vapor barrier. The door panels were given some matting and Ensolite. The enclosures for the subs are going together. The box was put together using glue, biscuts, screws and nails.  After sealing the enclosures with caulking, I coated the ensides with fiberglass resin for a complete air tight seal. The kick panels have been started and the subs mounted in the box. The box was painted flat black while I adjust and tune the system. It will be covered later. After the speakers were mounted and positioned I removed the speakers and started cutting the pods out. I wrapped the pods in fleese and then saturated them in resin. After the resin dried I started the first sanding. After smoothing everything out I covered the pods in fabric.

SP Performance Diamond Slotted rotors painted red. I painted the calipers when I replaced the rotors. I started painting some of the smaller pieces under the hood. What the driver gets to see. New SRT-10 seats, I still have to change the headrests. Intro Ram 5's 20x10's with Nitto 420S 305/50-20's. My stock rim and tires vs new ones. Bedrug and tonneau liner match perfectly. I put LED lights under the bed rails. Here are the old stock pedals and my new Ford Harley Davidson Edition F-150 pedals. These are the front and rear sway bars which were powder coated red and my drop spindles were powder coated black. The spindles were part of the 2/4 lowering kit. This is my Dynatech Headers and cats coated. This is my custom exhaust past the cats with Flowmaster Super 40. I have since built another middle section with an Original 40 and a manual cutout. Here are the badges that didn't make it past day 2. I removed the tow hooks and put in this custom lower grill. And here are the headlights comparing the stock ones vs. the new ones with clear corners. This is a picture comparing full wheel well liners vs the stock ones and a picture of the liners installed. The clips and fasteners for the liners bothered me after I put them on so I took them off and painted them. I painted all the fasteners and clips all around the truck similar to these. New Taylor 8.2v Red Shorty Plug Wires Inside of the cab I started adding some more silver. I also installed an SRT-10 push button start. Intro Ram 5's Wheels, Nitto NT420S 305/50-20 and a Yorkie 2600 stall Edge torque converter and PML deep transmission pan. My Dynojet Wideband Commander kit.

I removed the package tray, and this is what it looks like behind seats with the tray removed. Here is all the B-Pillar trim pieces, and what the B-Pillar looks like with the trim removed. Back wall trim piece, very thin and no sound dampening, and the back wall with no sound deadening at all. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the center seat shoulder belt mounting bracket. That left bare metal but a flat surface to work with. I painted over the bare metal. Next I taped over the vents and spent two hours deciding if I could seal them off. I opened and closed the doors for two hours straight. I decided the vents were going away and then I made some patch panels. The outside was painted red. The patch panels are in. They will be covered in sound dampening and completely covered when all is done. I started in on the dash to see what wires were there. The worked on the wiring harness and it is now ready for the change over. I also mocked up the faceplate and head unit and fitted everything to the way I like. Then everything was removed and the stock put back in place. The head unit, bezel, and wiring harness is now ready for the final install. I tore into the doors and made some adapter plates. I will be replacing the 6x9 factory speakers with 6.5" midbass woofers in the doors. The adapter plates were made out of high density 1/4" thick MDF. I then painted the adapter plates flat black and checked to see what they looked like installed. Then they were taken out and the stock speakers were put back in. The door speakers are now ready to be installed when the time comes. From the factory the roof had two pieces of mat thrown on them. I matted the entire thing using Rammatt and B-Quiet. Then I covered the whole thing with Ensolite and put the headliner back in. I matted the entire floor board and back wall with multiple layers. A layer of Ensolite covered the floor. All the stock wiring was kept above the sound dampening. Then I started laying out the sound system wiring. I loomed the wires, cut a relief in the factory carpet, and reinstalled the carpet. The B-pillars were a pain and I put a lot of sound dampening inside them and then covered them in Ensolite. I concentrated the majority of the door matting on the inside. Then I reinstalled the vapor barrier. The door panels were given some matting and Ensolite. The enclosures for the subs are going together. The box was put together using glue, biscuts, screws and nails.  After sealing the enclosures with caulking, I coated the ensides with fiberglass resin for a complete air tight seal. The kick panels have been started and the subs mounted in the box. The box was painted flat black while I adjust and tune the system. It will be covered later. After the speakers were mounted and positioned I removed the speakers and started cutting the pods out. I wrapped the pods in fleese and then saturated them in resin. After the resin dried I started the first sanding. After smoothing everything out I covered the pods in fabric.

My favorite part of the truck is the Intro Wheels. They are 20x10 with a 6" backspace. Tires are Nitto NT420S 305/50-20's.For full pictures of the truck go to page 2.For pictures of modification see page 3.The sound system is being put together and most of the pieces have been collected. Check out page 4 as it is changing daily.I'm still working on the installation of the sound system. Go to page 5 to see what's been done so far.You can see what the truck looked like stock on page 6.Page 7 shows some pictures of other family rides.A full stat sheet is on page 8.Here's the latest mods that have been done to the truck.

I removed the package tray, and this is what it looks like behind seats with the tray removed. Here is all the B-Pillar trim pieces, and what the B-Pillar looks like with the trim removed. Back wall trim piece, very thin and no sound dampening, and the back wall with no sound deadening at all. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the center seat shoulder belt mounting bracket. That left bare metal but a flat surface to work with. I painted over the bare metal. Next I taped over the vents and spent two hours deciding if I could seal them off. I opened and closed the doors for two hours straight. I decided the vents were going away and then I made some patch panels. The outside was painted red. The patch panels are in. They will be covered in sound dampening and completely covered when all is done. I started in on the dash to see what wires were there. The worked on the wiring harness and it is now ready for the change over. I also mocked up the faceplate and head unit and fitted everything to the way I like. Then everything was removed and the stock put back in place. The head unit, bezel, and wiring harness is now ready for the final install. I tore into the doors and made some adapter plates. I will be replacing the 6x9 factory speakers with 6.5" midbass woofers in the doors. The adapter plates were made out of high density 1/4" thick MDF. I then painted the adapter plates flat black and checked to see what they looked like installed. Then they were taken out and the stock speakers were put back in. The door speakers are now ready to be installed when the time comes. From the factory the roof had two pieces of mat thrown on them. I matted the entire thing using Rammatt and B-Quiet. Then I covered the whole thing with Ensolite and put the headliner back in. I matted the entire floor board and back wall with multiple layers. A layer of Ensolite covered the floor. All the stock wiring was kept above the sound dampening. Then I started laying out the sound system wiring. I loomed the wires, cut a relief in the factory carpet, and reinstalled the carpet. The B-pillars were a pain and I put a lot of sound dampening inside them and then covered them in Ensolite. I concentrated the majority of the door matting on the inside. Then I reinstalled the vapor barrier. The door panels were given some matting and Ensolite. The enclosures for the subs are going together. The box was put together using glue, biscuts, screws and nails.  After sealing the enclosures with caulking, I coated the ensides with fiberglass resin for a complete air tight seal. The kick panels have been started and the subs mounted in the box. The box was painted flat black while I adjust and tune the system. It will be covered later. After the speakers were mounted and positioned I removed the speakers and started cutting the pods out. I wrapped the pods in fleese and then saturated them in resin. After the resin dried I started the first sanding. After smoothing everything out I covered the pods in fabric.

SP Performance Diamond Slotted rotors painted red. I painted the calipers when I replaced the rotors. I started painting some of the smaller pieces under the hood. What the driver gets to see. New SRT-10 seats, I still have to change the headrests. Intro Ram 5's 20x10's with Nitto 420S 305/50-20's. My stock rim and tires vs new ones. Bedrug and tonneau liner match perfectly. I put LED lights under the bed rails. Here are the old stock pedals and my new Ford Harley Davidson Edition F-150 pedals. These are the front and rear sway bars which were powder coated red and my drop spindles were powder coated black. The spindles were part of the 2/4 lowering kit. This is my Dynatech Headers and cats coated. This is my custom exhaust past the cats with Flowmaster Super 40. I have since built another middle section with an Original 40 and a manual cutout. Here are the badges that didn't make it past day 2. I removed the tow hooks and put in this custom lower grill. And here are the headlights comparing the stock ones vs. the new ones with clear corners. This is a picture comparing full wheel well liners vs the stock ones and a picture of the liners installed. The clips and fasteners for the liners bothered me after I put them on so I took them off and painted them. I painted all the fasteners and clips all around the truck similar to these. New Taylor 8.2v Red Shorty Plug Wires Inside of the cab I started adding some more silver. I also installed an SRT-10 push button start. Intro Ram 5's Wheels, Nitto NT420S 305/50-20 and a Yorkie 2600 stall Edge torque converter and PML deep transmission pan. My Dynojet Wideband Commander kit.

SP Performance Diamond Slotted rotors painted red. I painted the calipers when I replaced the rotors. I started painting some of the smaller pieces under the hood. What the driver gets to see. New SRT-10 seats, I still have to change the headrests. Intro Ram 5's 20x10's with Nitto 420S 305/50-20's. My stock rim and tires vs new ones. Bedrug and tonneau liner match perfectly. I put LED lights under the bed rails. Here are the old stock pedals and my new Ford Harley Davidson Edition F-150 pedals. These are the front and rear sway bars which were powder coated red and my drop spindles were powder coated black. The spindles were part of the 2/4 lowering kit. This is my Dynatech Headers and cats coated. This is my custom exhaust past the cats with Flowmaster Super 40. I have since built another middle section with an Original 40 and a manual cutout. Here are the badges that didn't make it past day 2. I removed the tow hooks and put in this custom lower grill. And here are the headlights comparing the stock ones vs. the new ones with clear corners. This is a picture comparing full wheel well liners vs the stock ones and a picture of the liners installed. The clips and fasteners for the liners bothered me after I put them on so I took them off and painted them. I painted all the fasteners and clips all around the truck similar to these. New Taylor 8.2v Red Shorty Plug Wires Inside of the cab I started adding some more silver. I also installed an SRT-10 push button start. Intro Ram 5's Wheels, Nitto NT420S 305/50-20 and a Yorkie 2600 stall Edge torque converter and PML deep transmission pan. My Dynojet Wideband Commander kit.

I removed the package tray, and this is what it looks like behind seats with the tray removed. Here is all the B-Pillar trim pieces, and what the B-Pillar looks like with the trim removed. Back wall trim piece, very thin and no sound dampening, and the back wall with no sound deadening at all. I drilled out the spot welds and removed the center seat shoulder belt mounting bracket. That left bare metal but a flat surface to work with. I painted over the bare metal. Next I taped over the vents and spent two hours deciding if I could seal them off. I opened and closed the doors for two hours straight. I decided the vents were going away and then I made some patch panels. The outside was painted red. The patch panels are in. They will be covered in sound dampening and completely covered when all is done. I started in on the dash to see what wires were there. The worked on the wiring harness and it is now ready for the change over. I also mocked up the faceplate and head unit and fitted everything to the way I like. Then everything was removed and the stock put back in place. The head unit, bezel, and wiring harness is now ready for the final install. I tore into the doors and made some adapter plates. I will be replacing the 6x9 factory speakers with 6.5" midbass woofers in the doors. The adapter plates were made out of high density 1/4" thick MDF. I then painted the adapter plates flat black and checked to see what they looked like installed. Then they were taken out and the stock speakers were put back in. The door speakers are now ready to be installed when the time comes. From the factory the roof had two pieces of mat thrown on them. I matted the entire thing using Rammatt and B-Quiet. Then I covered the whole thing with Ensolite and put the headliner back in. I matted the entire floor board and back wall with multiple layers. A layer of Ensolite covered the floor. All the stock wiring was kept above the sound dampening. Then I started laying out the sound system wiring. I loomed the wires, cut a relief in the factory carpet, and reinstalled the carpet. The B-pillars were a pain and I put a lot of sound dampening inside them and then covered them in Ensolite. I concentrated the majority of the door matting on the inside. Then I reinstalled the vapor barrier. The door panels were given some matting and Ensolite. The enclosures for the subs are going together. The box was put together using glue, biscuts, screws and nails.  After sealing the enclosures with caulking, I coated the ensides with fiberglass resin for a complete air tight seal. The kick panels have been started and the subs mounted in the box. The box was painted flat black while I adjust and tune the system. It will be covered later. After the speakers were mounted and positioned I removed the speakers and started cutting the pods out. I wrapped the pods in fleese and then saturated them in resin. After the resin dried I started the first sanding. After smoothing everything out I covered the pods in fabric.