Here's something I picked up from Florida 5.0, a new gauge cluster. It will bolt up in place of the stock unit and is available in many different configurations. I picked the 5 hole because my Tach will be located in a dash gauge pod for better visibility. If your Mustang came with Cruise Control all you have to do is splice into the speed sensor that is bolted to the transmission. Just disconnect the speedo cable and toss it. The speed sensor is the piece with the drive gear attached that most people change when they change the rear gears and try to correct the calibration. Just splice into the Orange/Yellow (Ground) and Dark Green/White (Sender) and calibrate per Autometers instructions. It doesn't matter what tire size or gear ratio you have. This is an overhead shot of the rear axle. On the right upper control arm you can see where I installed the aluminum bushing with the sperical bearing to elimnate any binding in the suspension. I still have to do the left side, the rubber bushings are a bear to get out so take your time. Here's a shot of the aluminum center section with a billet steel yoke for 1350 U joints. Another shot of the front. It's hard to tell in the picture but the lower control arm is about 1 inch from the side of the slicks. That's why I choose the offset control arms. If I had used the standard arm it would be rubbing the tire. Here's the heavy duty back brace Moser installed and you can also see the Wilwood 12" disc brake with 4 piston calipers. My experience with Moser was the best. They are great people to deal with and knowledgable. I ordered my axle assy on a Friday afternoon and it arrived the following Friday morning by UPS in 4 boxes. It was expensive but I now have a bullet proof axle (shorten to 57" from axle flange to axle flange, aluminum center section with full spool and Pro gears, 35 spline axles, and to make changing the gear lube easy a fill cap and drain plug). Next I will install the upper shock mounts to the frame rails and the lower mounts to the axle, then measure for the length of coilover shocks I need. Today I started installing the upper and lower shock mounts for the coilovers. A couple of shots with the Wolfe Racecraft Anti-roll bar in place and the coilover shocks. With everything tack welded in place I'll remove the axle and disassemble it and take the housing, upper, and lower control arms to the powder coaters to be powder coated in a nice silver color. My transmission and converter arrived this weekend, a JW Ultraglide with the best of everything they have to put in one. $$$$ With the transmission here, next weekend I'll start the front and mid motor plate setup. I should have some new photos then. Photo of the Trick Flow A460 tunnel ram I'll be using with 2 Quick Fuel 1050 carburetors. First I'll do some cartridge roll clean up and then tap and drill for the nitrous nozzles in each runner. My K member was delivered, so I though I would post some photos of it. It was made by AJE Racing without motor mounts and lowered rack mounts. It's a unique design which has a different mounting method for the lower control arms. You will also notice in the right hand photo I added a stub bar that attaches the the A pillar bar of the roll cage, passes through the fenderwell and ties into the outer parrt of the frame rail. This should really stiffen up the front along with the strut tower bars that are on the inside.