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DIY: Pulling the 4 cylinder engine!
I just pulled the engine in my v6 Tiburon to install a new clutch, so i figured I'd pull my girls 4cyl engine to put in a new clutch, timing belt, water pump, and a few other minor things. Pulling the 4cyl is so much easier than the v6. Its smaller, has less wire harnesses, and there's more room to work around it. To get my v6 ready to be pulled out, it took about 6 - 8 hours. I'll have the 4cyl out in about 4. In these instructions, I will explain how to do most of the work, but i will leave out some little things like removing all the wire plugs that hook to the engine, and stuff like that. Another good thing about the 4cyl is that all the plugs are different sizes, and a certain length, so you can't possibly get any of them mixed up. I didn't have to mark where anything went, but if you feel the need to, you can. Alright lets get started!
Here's what I'll be replacing:
First thing you'll need to do is make sure you wont need your car for a couple days, just incase it takes you a little while to do all of this. Second would be to have the car on a flat level ground, because you will need it to be jacked up.
Set your park break as much as you can, and if you have something to place behind the back wheels, that would be good too.
Before you jack up the car, you'll need to remove the hood. Its best to have 2 other people helping you with this part.
Loosen the lug nuts on the front passenger wheel. Once they are loose, you can now jack up the car, and place a jack stand underneath it.
Once the wheel is off, remove the plastic guard that covers the pulley. Its held on by two 10mm bolts. After you remove it, you'll see the underdrive pulley
Using a 22mm socket and an air gun, remove the bolt that holds the pulley in place. The reason for removing the pulley is to have enough clearance when removing the engine. I didn't know to remove it on my v6, and i had lots of trouble gettin my engine to come out.
IF YOU CAN NOT GET THE BOLT TO COME LOOSE, TRY THIS:
Unplug the coil pack
Place the 22mm socket onto the pulley bolt. You'll need a long breaker bar to place on the socket, making it sit straight up the backside of the engine mount. Now, get inside the car (carefully since its jacked up). Make sure you're not in gear! turn the key as if you were starting the car. The car wont start since you unpluged the coil pack, but it will still try to turn over. This will cause the pulleys to turn, which will cause the breaker bar to go against the motor mount, causing the bolt to loosen itself enough so that you can loosen it the rest of the way.
Disconnect your battery and remove it from the engine bay (if you dont want to completely remove it, just disconnect the ground. I took it all the way out so I'd have more room to work)
The next picture shows that I have removed the coolant overflow bottle, so we can have more room to get to the alternator.
To remove the power steering pump (without disconnecting any lines) unscrew the 2 bolts that hold it to the bracket. Once both bolts are off, remove the belt from the power steering pulley, and move it to the side. Make sure you dont damage the hoses.
Now you can remove the alternator. There are 3 bolts for this one. You remove the bottom one (there's a nut on the right side, once its off you can push the bolt out the left side) for the top 2 bolts, remove the one that goes left and right, and just loosen the one that faces foward and backward. Remove the belt from the pulley. Now remove the wire plug, and the nut holding the other wire.
Its a little hard to get the alternator out of the engine bay but it has just enough room to come out from the top. This is what you should have now
Now you have to loosen the last belt tensioner so you can remove the last belt, which is the a/c belt. The red circle shows the belt tensioner. Its to the left of the underdrive pulley. The green circle shows the bolt that you have to loosen in order to remove the belt. Once the belt is off, remove the other 2 bolts on the belt tensioner so that it comes off the car, so you'll have enough clearance when pulling the engine.
I removed the following pulleys: Underdrive, water pump, and the belt tensioner.
Now remove the 2 bolts holding the slave cylinder to the transmission. also, remove the pin that holds the cylinder to the arm, and remove the arm. If you dont do this, you won't be able to pull the engine from the tranny.
You dont have to do this next step, but I did so I'd have more room, and because I was flushing the whole cooling system anyways.
I removed the radiator, and left the a/c condensor there.
On the back of the engine, you'll find the a/c compressor. Its held on by 4 long bolts. 3 will come all the way out, and the 4th is blocked by an a/c line, but it gives you enough room to get it loose. Once all 4 bolts are loose, let the compressor rest on something thats out of the way of the engine. You won't be removing this.
Unplug the 4 injectors if you haven't already, and remove the 2 bolts that hold the fuel rail to the engine. You dont have to remove the fuel rail, just the wire harness that's attatched to it.
Remove the 2 nuts, and one bolt that holds the down pipe
Now its time to get your hoist in place. Here's how I hooked the strap to the engine
Now its time to start removing the bolts that hold the engine to the transmission. There are 10 bolts total. They face different ways, and there are different lengths, so make sure you keep track of which ones go where. On the back side of the engine, you'll find the starter. It's held on by 2 of the 10 bolts. Once its unbolted, just pull it, and the wire harness out of the engine bay.
Now here's the fun part. Once the bolts are all out, you'll be able to wiggle the motor from the tranny. You might have to use a prybar to loosen it a little. Just make sure you didn't forget a bolt somewhere ;) In order to get the engine out, you have to remove some motor mount bolts that are attatched to the tranny. In the picture below, you can see the front motor mount. I removed the top two bolts, and loosened the botom left one.
On the driver side motor mount, I removed the middle bolt, which allowed the transmission to drop down enough so the clutch would clear the top of the transmission when pulling out.
And here it comes!
Here's a shot of the transmission and the engine so you can see where the bolt holes are located
Once you've got the engine away from the car, lower the hoist so that the engine sits on the ground lightly. Dont set it all the way down, because you might bend something.
Start removing the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Once all 6 are out, you can remove the pressure plate, and the clutch disc.
Install the new clutch disc, making sure you have it facing the correct way
Insert your clutch alignment tool, and slide the new pressure plate over the tool, and up to the flywheel. Align the 3 studs, and put the 6 bolts back in. If you have trouble getting the pressure plate to go back on the 3 studs, try using a block of wood and a hammer.
DO NOT PUT THE THROW OUT BEARING ONTO THE PRESSURE PLATE!!!!
Clutch - DONE
Now its time for the water pump. Here it is takin off already, to show you the bolt locations.
You have to remove the timing belt cover and the lower timing belt tensioner in order to get to all the bolts that hold the water pump to the engine.
New and Old
Notcie the nub on the old pump
and the nub on the new pump
I drilled a hole in the water pump pulleys, and made it work.
Put some gasket sealant around the water pump and where it meets the engine
Put the bolts back it, and the water pump is complete.
For the timing belt, as long as you dont move the gears, you wont have any trouble. I marked both the upper and lower gears with a marker. Then counted the number of nubs on the belt between the two marks. When I put the new belt on, I counted to make sure the same number of nubs matched up with the marks I made on the gears. Very easy.
Before you put the engine back in, you need to place the throw out bearing in the tranny.
This is the throw out bearing
The next pictures are dark, but you should be able to get a good idea of what im talking about...
Place the throw out bearing on the shaft in the tranny. You can see the 2 little arms on the right, which will slide over the throw out bearing, on those 2 little tabs.
Once you slide the arms into the throw out bearing "tabs", you can push it all the way towards the back of the shaft, like this
Now when you put the engine back in, the pressure plate will "click" into the throw out bearing. I ended up getting my engine all the way in, and didnt hear the click until i moved that clutch arm (from the top of the tranny, that little gear thing)
Now just put everything back together in reverse order. Remember to check everything many times, because you don't want to forget anything when doing a project like this. If you need additional help, just let me know!
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