FUEL SYSTEM MOD:I decided not to go with a race design fuel pump. I didn't like any I found because they all needed some type of voltage control module to keep them from overheating on the streets. Most OEM types of fuel pumps are well made and work without overheating issues. You just have to find one big enough to meet your flow requiremnts.I went with this Bosch fuel pump #-044 which flows a strong 330 lph @ 75 psi. It was recommended by Marco @ Magnus Motorsports to be just what I was looking for. Thanks Marco ;-). Compared to my old Walbro 255, it's quite a bit bigger. My real concern was how to get it mounted. It will not fit in the tank sending unit, so don't waste your time. I found it fit in the 2g fuel filter mounting bracket perfectly. And since I installed a new fuel filter, it wasn't being used anyway. Don't you just love recycling? ;-)This is the stock 2g fuel sending unit after it was modded. I used the factory line as a guide to drill a hole big enough to get a -8 bulkhead to pass through and tighten down with some fuel proof sealant. I really had a fun time getting this to work. I had to "tweak" the metal lines around it to clear. A -6 bulkhead would be much easier to install. For most people, that's all that would be needed. If I'm going to take on something like this, I tend to go bigger than what some may think is needed. But this way I don't have to do it twice if -6 came up being too small. The -8 line connects the bulkhead to the screen filter. The pump came with a check valve on the outlet side which I wasn't going to use, so I cut it shorter, removed the check valve and drilled out the center to enlarge it closer to the -8 inner diameter. It was not a perfect match, but very close. After working the outlet to the screen a little, it screwed right in and the the -8 line was attached.If you decide to go with a -8 bulkhead you will need to attach the fuel line fitting to the bulkhead prior to installing it in the sending unit. You will not be able to tighten it after it's installed. The "flats" of the nut are lined up against the fuel syphon/cross-over pipe and sending unit electrical connector. Then once the sending unit is installed in the tank, remove the crimp ring/sleeve from the fitting, thread it over the -8 line, attach it to the fitting and tighten it. Installed back into the vehicle.-8 fuel line feed up from under the car, attached and tightened.View from under the car at the passengers side showing that there is a plenty of clearance to do this.Another angle to see it from.I mounted the fuel pump and bracket at the passengers side rear floor where it just starts to curve up to meet the rear seat. This pic was taken from in front of the RH rear tire. It's hard to tell from this pic, but the pump is well protected by the floor pan. It hangs level with the floor pan and bottom of the fuel tank.A pic from in front of the pump and facing the rear of the car.Another pic from the front of the vehicle to give you a better idea of how it fits into that area.The -8 fuel line was fed up along the firewall near the battery tray and secured. Then sent into the fuel filter, -8 check valve and fuel rail. I used an "old school" ignition coil mouting bracket to mount the new fuel filter. Fit perfectly.AS A NOTE:This pump is strong enough to syphon the fuel up and out of the tank without a lift pump or priming. I had less than 1/4 of a tank of fuel and without hesitation, fuel was flowing and pressure was there in no time. Once fuel is in the pump, the fuel is fed into it by gravity since it is even with the bottom of the tank. I also drilled the outlet fitting that screws into the pump to a larger inner diameter to help keep it closer to the -8 size.