9/7/08 -went to a local car cruise and got favorable reviews on the Jeep! Wasn't sure how it was going to be received but was immediately swarmed by people checking it out- even though there was alot of amazing vehicles there already. I guess all that hard work will pay off after all.
For the latest pics and stories go to page 6-
for the epic adventure in full -start reading below -I will point out the actual starting point :)
these are more recent photos immediately below
Hot rod Jeep!
Hood is off while I install the new hood hardware and buff it out.
Latest updates- the gas tank is back in and it is driving better than ever. The new rear bumper and the factory optional tow hitch are installed.
I recently scored a good deal on a bikini top on E-Bay. Also previously bought a 'windbreaker'
(and you can see the new taillights)
-it's like a top except just covers the area behind the seats attached to the rollbar. Will try to get that on soon and post more pictures. Working 6 days a week kind of slows down the hobby projects!!
HERE'S WHERE THE ADVENTURE BEGAN!!
This is my 78 Jeep CJ-5 that I bought off the E-bay auction site in late Oct. 05. It's got the 304 V-8 with a 3 speed which I recently found out was a rather rare combination from the factory. From what I read recently less than 1% of the CJ5's were made this way in '78. According to the previous owner it was also a Levi's edition model- unfortunetly all the Levi's stuff is long gone, but still kind of cool to know. Above is a picture of it shortly after I brought it home. It was in desperate need of a mechanic such as myself to straighten out the various little odds and ends that make a vehicle run and drive right.
When I tell people about it and the fact that it's got a new engine and new fiberglass body and I'm working on it they ask "what's left to be worked on?". I reply that I could write a book on what's left to be worked on. This is my attempt at writing that book. This 'book' is a work in progress, please bear with me as I will continue to update and edit this thing as time allows. Hope you enjoy reading this anyway-leave a comment and a vote-thanks!!
(I'm working on it right now- have some pictures of the work in progress on these pages, will continue updating as time allows)
It came with alot of cool stuff like a new Shell Valley fiberglass body,a newly rebuilt 304- .040 over bored (makes it a 311 cu. in. now)/hot cam/headers/Edelbrock 4 bbl. carb.Here's a shot of the custom upholstered marine grade vinyl seats.
Once I got this sucker running right it really sounded awesome. There is a 4 inch suspension lift/ and a 4 inch body lift. I will be removing the body lift because it's not suggested to use a body lift w/a fiberglass body.
I have replumbed alot of the various systems(fuel and brake stuff)and have redone the electrical system almost completely. There is a new fuel pump, and discovered that the previous owner had installed the fuel filter backwards! With this type of filter it has a one-way check valve that was facing the wrong way thereby preventing fuel from being sucked up to the carb! This wasn't the only problem with the fuel system as I discovered after getting that figured out. There was also a new Edelbrock Performer 4 BBL. carb on the engine, adapted to the 2 BBL. manifold. I discovered that the adapter plate had holes in the bottom (for bolting to different types of manifolds) that were left unused. This of course produced severe vacuum leaks that gave the new engine fits trying to run. Had to innovate a fix for plugging this up, it's amazing what a little JB Weld will fix (it's the only thing I could find that was impervious to gasoline- welding, for example, would certainly have warped it).
Whew!! After getting these and other little things straightened out I figured out another problem. The timing was WAY off! Almost one cylinder retarded! Had to switch the wires around on the distributor cap one cylinder back and then swivel the timing back around to spec.
Poor thing was trying to run with all these problems-no wonder the previous owner gave up trying to figure out how to get this sucker running. (Still working on the tune-up as I just recently discovered the spark plug wires are arcing next to the headers. Open your hood in a darkened garage sometime and look for arcs-might surprise you!) Anyway, once I got all this figured out the engine ran like it should for the first time. The big cam sounds absolutely bad-ass!! It will be a blast to drive as it will have a lot of power for such a short wheelbase (83 inch!)vehicle.
Here's a shot of the battery tray I fabbed out of some scrap steel I had setting around. I redid the wiring under the hood while I was at it.
The new battery tray replaces the cheap plastic tray the previous owner had installed.
This new tray resembles the stock design, but upgraded with sturdier square tubing and angle iron. I used threaded inserts to blind mount it to the firewall because of the heater unit on the other side of it. It's kind of difficult to get good photos of something painted black- I will get pictures before installing stuff in the future!
Here's a cam shot of the windshield newly installed-because it's a fiberglass frame-the thickness and shape of the opening is too far off for a conventional install with a gasket. I figured out that others are using glue like a late model windshield-so I glued that bastad in! Also had to put in some new threaded inserts for the frame install, this time I used steel inserts. Much harder to do the steel ones as compared to the aluminum ones!!
I relocated the ignition module and starter solenoid as the previous owner had them mounted to the frame right behind the front tire. They would have been exposed to everything that the front tire could throw at it and offroad that's a definite no-no for electricals. I put them up high and dry on top of the inner fender. Once the body lift was removed there wasn't room on the frame rails anymore because of the inner fenderwells moving down. Figured out that the ignition module doesn't ground through the casing (by looking at a wiring diagram for it) but you do have to add a ground wire to the starter solenoid bracket.
[UPDATE--1/23/07)--I've custom fabbed an exhaust system. I ordered some mandrel bent angle pieces that I will cut and weld together to go over and around the transfer case.
There's the tubing! That ought to flow-it's 3" Lookin for a band saw to cut tubing with, it's the only way to get a clean and accurate enough cut.
There some pics of why I need to change this exhaust system. As you can see the previous owner simply smashed the pipe in about halfway to barely clear the transfer case.
(looking down the inside of the tube)
This being right behind the header outlet will kill horsepower big time. It also left the outlet rubbing right against the shock boot! There was no attempt at securing the end of the pipe with a hanger. The driver's side was left sitting on top of the rear axle! As the axle moved the exhaust system had to move with it-obviously this wasn't going to work either. I've made some adjustments to the driver's side already, a simple angle cut and weld and a new hanger and we are good to go. (UPDATE 3/16/07)--Got a bandsaw-it looks like it works awesome!
It can either work vertical or horizontal-it has a gravity feed feature where you can clamp down the piece to be cut and turn on the saw and walk away.
It will shut itself off after the cut is complete. Pretty nice for $200 from Harbor Freight. It will give me the straight and clean cut that I need to do the exhaust tubing and weld back together cleanly. I didnt have a good way to do this before- hacksaws and cut-off wheels on angle grinders don't cut it clean and accurate enough. Not to mention the amount of work it is to manually cut this stuff - really takes a long time too.
Obviously I'm stoked about my new tool!
(update-it's now 4/22/07) There's the new passenger side exhaust, first one showing some of the process of welding together and cutting off the excess. Second one is the finished product. You wind up with a 3" mandrel bent exhaust piece that nobody sells. The alternative is easier of course, simply go to an exhaust shop and have them do it. The results though won't be anywhere near as nice- both in flow and appearance. If I wanted to be really trick I would grind off the welds so that it all appears as one tube.
However when the skid plate is installed (see picture)you really don't see any of the exhaust -so it would be kind of a waste of time.But.....
--Stay tuned for further developments!
Note the brake hose is relocated to the top of the axle pumpkin. Stock it is off to one side on the passenger axle tube. My modification will allow the axle to flex more without fear of over extending the hose.



That's the driver's side shown without the skidplate in place. Ihad to redo the mounting for the skid plate as the bolt's threaded inserts in the frame are wasted. I'm drilling holes in the frame so I can access the inside of the fully boxed rails-once done I will use grade 8 nuts on top of the new grade 8 bolts.(update- it's done-you can see the holes in the frame in the above close-up of the skidplate.) Anyone that has dropped one of thse skidplates before can imagine what that means when the bolts are stripped out - PITA! Hopefully this will mean the end of that trouble and the skidplate will be accessible easily even when off-road. Before that skidplate got installed I put on a new polyurathane transmission mount, the stock one was toast and was missing a bolt because of stripped threads. That wouldn't have worked very long off road. That's not photoshop-it's really that red!
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