parboy’s 1994 Toyota Supra

Today was spent tidying up a few of the loose ends we had yesterday. For starters, we had to create a place to mount the huge tsunami ANL fuse holder. There was not any room close to the battery, so we had to dream up something. Not to mention it had to be under 18" from the battery due to USACi rules. Here is the wire in front of one of my 18" wheels. This is the wire we used from the battery to the fuse holder. We took the battery out and were able to make a mount shelf for the fuse holder. The battery fits right back in place. You can also see the Tsunami battery terminals we used. They each will accept two 4 gauge and two 8 gauge cables. We installed the remote amp control for the Memphis st1000d in the center console box. All the cables and wire are run to the hatch area. As you can see, there is a big ole hump right in the middle of everything! The spare tire used to reside here. We didn't know that was there untill today, so that kinda threw us for a loop. We do have some idea's cooking though :) You guys will just have to check the next page to see what we decide to do :)

Ok, today was box building day! If it wasn't for that stupid hump that the spare tire used to reside on, it would have been alot less time consuming. We didn't let that little set back stop us though! Derrick designed a wedge style box with 2 step up's to go over the hump. We did the 2 steps to keep the airspace loss to a minimum. After all was said and done we still have 2.15 cu/ft, which is perfect for the 2 eclipse alluminum subs. Here is the floor of the hatch area prepped with sound deadening spray. This stuff works great! This is the bottom of the sub box with the steps to go over the hump. We stiffened it up with fiberglass to help stop any unwanted resonances. Inside of the box Inside of the box after sealing with silicone. Top of the box The box all put together, this is the bottom showing the steps again.

Ok, when we last left off the box was finished. Now we need a place to mount the amps. We decided to mount an amp on each side of the box so we built a shelf on each side for that purpose. Here are a couple pics of the box with the amp shelves. Here we are just test fitting the box with the amps in the car. With the amps mounted, here we are connecting the subs to the 1000d amp. We used 8ga cable for the subs. Here you can see all the power connections thru the distribution blocks. The shelf on the back will be home to the lightning audio stiffening cap.This is the box mounted in the car and everything wired up and ready to rock!A straight on shot of the trunk with everything hooked up.We finally got to listen to the system today after weeks of waiting. I wish I could fully describe the cleanness of the sound. Crisp highs, great midrange, and accurate lows is what it's all about!All that remains now is to build the trim panels to tie everything we built into the form of the trunk. Those pictures are on the next page

Today was the day we finished it all up. Just doing the trim panels today took us about 12 hours. We made templates with cardboard then traced them out on 1/4 masonite board. We then cut and sanded on them untill the fit was correct, installed the "pops" to hold them in place, then wrapped them in vinyl. Here we are test fitting the front panel. I plan to mount a nitrous bottle here at some point :) Testing the side trim panels. Everything completed. Driver side view. Everything completed. Passenger side view.The overall shot of the new and improved trunk area :)Here are the new pics showing the custom billet nitrous bottle bracket and the install in the hatch area. Once again I want to thank all the guys at Bryant Car Stereo for exceeding my expectations and providing a great looking, and more importantly, great sounding install!! Mark, Matt, Derrick, and Dallas...YOU GUYS ROCK!

Audio ComponentsEclipse 55040 Head UnitEclipse 8052 5.25" ComponentsEclipse 8963 6.5" Point SourceEclipse 88120 DVC 12" Alluminum Subs (2)Memphis ST1000D 1100w @ 1 ohmMemphis ST3004 75w x 4 @ 4 ohmsLightning Audio 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor with digital volt readoutTsunami Twisted Pair RCA CablesTsunami 4 Gauge Power/Ground cablesTsunami Speaker WireTsunami Battery TerminalsTsunami ANL Fuse HolderFollowing the excellent job done on my viper, I would not even consider having another shop to work on my supra. So, once again, im headed to Bryant Car Stereo in Bryant, AR for the install. These guys have treated me very well for any and all of my car audio and security needs. If anyone reading this is in the central Arkansas area, I highly recommend you give them a call.INSTALL PICSThis first day of the install was spent doing the cabin speakers, head unit, getting the power cable and rca cables started. Here is a shot of the door with the panel removed Here is the mounting plate we had to build. The stock location was only good for 4" speakers and I have 5.25". Derrick built a pretty sharp plate system. Here is the door showing the crossover and mid mounted A close up of the door panel showing the tweeter mount location And here is the door back together. You can see the mount spot for the tweeter, which is not installed yet. We are going to play around with the angles to get them aimed properly for a great front stage. The doors are all back together and tweeters flush mounted. This is a shot of the rear speaker area. You can see the eclipse crossover screwed to the car with everything zip tied together. Here is the rear speaker area with the 6.5" point source installed. It holds 6.5" stock, so we only had to build a spacer to get the speakers to fit snug. And this is the dash pulled apart. We just got the head unit installed with the rca's connected. Below the radio is the HKS boost controller and the HKS turbo timer. Here is the dash put back together with everything in place. Derrick custom made the plastic side pieces around the boost controller and turbo timer, then wrapped them in vinyl to match the rest of the dash. A shot from the hatch showing the interior of the car. Most of the items installed today were able to go in the stock locations with little changes made. We were trying to make it look as factory as possible, whenever possible. The only part of the cabin install that is not factory are the tweeter locations. We did not want to sacrifice sound imaging, and the spot we chose proved to be the best option. Everything else can be returned to original which is what I was trying to accomplish.

1994 Toyota Supra TurboThis is my current project. Some of you may remember my previous car, World's Loudest Viper. I recently sold the viper and bought this supra. Of course I removed the stereo before selling it!! :) For those of you wondering why I went from a viper to a supra, I'll try to explain. I love to drag race my cars. The viper was getting killed at the track by these pesky 6 cyl turbo cars! Not to mention the monthly payment on the viper did not justify the once per week I was driving it. I was able to sell the viper and pay cash for the supra. Looking back, I dont regret selling the viper. I have now become hooked on forced induction. You hear alot of guys saying "there's no replacement for displacement". I'm here to tell you that "technology is the replacement for displacement"! After spending around $1500 in performance parts, this supra will now destroy my old viper on the track! I will document on the following pages the installation progress of the sound system in the supra. Thanks for looking, and please be sure to vote.Well, here is my new baby:When I bought the car it was pretty much stock and had never had the boost increased. I changed all that very quickly. With race gas and running 19-20psi of boost, HP output is 500 bhp. On the dyno recently she put down 435 rwhp sae. I just added a vpc and afc on 12/30/02. With them untuned I was able to pick up 10rwhp. I just recently completed the install of the new single turbo kit. It is an RPS kit using a Precision Turbo 63mm turbo. At 18psi this thing is just loads of fun, at 26psi it is unfreakenbelieavable :) In order to support the increased airflow this turbo produces I needed to upgrade the fuel system. For that task I enlisted the services of Polk Performance in Bryant Arkansas. They handled the job beautifully and did excellent work taking care of the car and making sure that I was happy. We just put the car on the dyno on 12/1/03 at Polk Performance. Running 1.8 bar(~26psi) boost the car made 605 rwhp and 570 rwtq, which equates to 712 hp and 671 torque at the motor. The boost only dynosheet is below:I recently installed an NX wet nitrous kit and got some new numbers on the bottle. I was spraying a 65 shot of nitrous on this pull. For some reason, the car was losing power in the upper rpm's. It looks like the nitrous shut off around 5700 rpm's and cost me around 30 hp. If the nitrous would have sprayed all the way across, the rwhp number would have been closer to 680 rwhp! I will figure out what happened and get back to the dyno for some new nitrous numbers that will show the full potential of my set up. The nitrous dyno sheet is below:Below is a list of the current modifications. EngineStock 2JZ-GTE motorRPS turbo kit, PTE TE63 turboHKS Adjustable Cam GearsHose Techniques Silicone HoseHardpipes.com Polished Upper Radiator PipeApex'i IntakeHKS VPC (eliminates the maf)Apex'i S-AFC (air/fuel controller)NX wet kitFuel SystemPolk Performance designed and installedPolk Performance polished fuel railTwin walbro 255 pumps780cc injectorsAeromotive fuel pressure regulatorK&N high flow fuel filterB&M fuel pressure gauge mounted to reg-8 steel braided feed line-6 steel braided lines to rail-6 steel braided return lineAeroquip AN fittingsBoost ControlGreddy BCC (boost cut controller)HKS EVC EZHKS Super Sequential BOVHKS Racing Type 1 BOVGaugesApex'i EL 60mm electronic boost gaugeApex'i EL 60mm electronic EGT gaugeFJO Wideband O2 MeterExhaustHKS Super Dragger Cat-BackRPS MidpipeRPS Downpipe with flex sectionCoolingGreddy 3 row Front Mount IntercoolerGreddy Oil Filter Relocation KitDrivetrainSouth Bend 6 Puck Dual Friction DiscSouth Bend Pressure PlateFidanza Alluminum FlywheelB&M Ripper ShifterSuspensionEibach Pro Kit SpringsKYB AGX Adjustable ShocksRactive Strut Tower BraceBrakesGoodriche Stainless LinesStillen Metal Matrix PadsMotul 600 Dot 4 FluidWheels/TiresBlitz 03 Wheels, 18x9F and 18x10RBrigestone Potenza Pole Position S-03 Tires. Size 255/35/18 front, 285/35/18 rear.Nitto 555R Drag Radial's on Stock Rear Wheels. Size 275/40/17.AccessoriesOEM Euro glass headlightsWhite Face GaugesHKS Turbo TimerXenon Hi/Low/Fog LightsBel 980 Radar DetectorFuture ModsTRD Steering WheelBody ModificationsNew PaintMy other installs can be viewed at the following links:2000 Dodge Viper, sold2000 Toyota Tacoma 4WD

Ok, when we last left off the box was finished. Now we need a place to mount the amps. We decided to mount an amp on each side of the box so we built a shelf on each side for that purpose. Here are a couple pics of the box with the amp shelves. Here we are just test fitting the box with the amps in the car. With the amps mounted, here we are connecting the subs to the 1000d amp. We used 8ga cable for the subs. Here you can see all the power connections thru the distribution blocks. The shelf on the back will be home to the lightning audio stiffening cap.This is the box mounted in the car and everything wired up and ready to rock!A straight on shot of the trunk with everything hooked up.We finally got to listen to the system today after weeks of waiting. I wish I could fully describe the cleanness of the sound. Crisp highs, great midrange, and accurate lows is what it's all about!All that remains now is to build the trim panels to tie everything we built into the form of the trunk. Those pictures are on the next page

Ok, today was box building day! If it wasn't for that stupid hump that the spare tire used to reside on, it would have been alot less time consuming. We didn't let that little set back stop us though! Derrick designed a wedge style box with 2 step up's to go over the hump. We did the 2 steps to keep the airspace loss to a minimum. After all was said and done we still have 2.15 cu/ft, which is perfect for the 2 eclipse alluminum subs. Here is the floor of the hatch area prepped with sound deadening spray. This stuff works great! This is the bottom of the sub box with the steps to go over the hump. We stiffened it up with fiberglass to help stop any unwanted resonances. Inside of the box Inside of the box after sealing with silicone. Top of the box The box all put together, this is the bottom showing the steps again.

Today was spent tidying up a few of the loose ends we had yesterday. For starters, we had to create a place to mount the huge tsunami ANL fuse holder. There was not any room close to the battery, so we had to dream up something. Not to mention it had to be under 18" from the battery due to USACi rules. Here is the wire in front of one of my 18" wheels. This is the wire we used from the battery to the fuse holder. We took the battery out and were able to make a mount shelf for the fuse holder. The battery fits right back in place. You can also see the Tsunami battery terminals we used. They each will accept two 4 gauge and two 8 gauge cables. We installed the remote amp control for the Memphis st1000d in the center console box. All the cables and wire are run to the hatch area. As you can see, there is a big ole hump right in the middle of everything! The spare tire used to reside here. We didn't know that was there untill today, so that kinda threw us for a loop. We do have some idea's cooking though :) You guys will just have to check the next page to see what we decide to do :)

Today was the day we finished it all up. Just doing the trim panels today took us about 12 hours. We made templates with cardboard then traced them out on 1/4 masonite board. We then cut and sanded on them untill the fit was correct, installed the "pops" to hold them in place, then wrapped them in vinyl. Here we are test fitting the front panel. I plan to mount a nitrous bottle here at some point :) Testing the side trim panels. Everything completed. Driver side view. Everything completed. Passenger side view.The overall shot of the new and improved trunk area :)Here are the new pics showing the custom billet nitrous bottle bracket and the install in the hatch area. Once again I want to thank all the guys at Bryant Car Stereo for exceeding my expectations and providing a great looking, and more importantly, great sounding install!! Mark, Matt, Derrick, and Dallas...YOU GUYS ROCK!

Audio ComponentsEclipse 55040 Head UnitEclipse 8052 5.25" ComponentsEclipse 8963 6.5" Point SourceEclipse 88120 DVC 12" Alluminum Subs (2)Memphis ST1000D 1100w @ 1 ohmMemphis ST3004 75w x 4 @ 4 ohmsLightning Audio 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor with digital volt readoutTsunami Twisted Pair RCA CablesTsunami 4 Gauge Power/Ground cablesTsunami Speaker WireTsunami Battery TerminalsTsunami ANL Fuse HolderFollowing the excellent job done on my viper, I would not even consider having another shop to work on my supra. So, once again, im headed to Bryant Car Stereo in Bryant, AR for the install. These guys have treated me very well for any and all of my car audio and security needs. If anyone reading this is in the central Arkansas area, I highly recommend you give them a call.INSTALL PICSThis first day of the install was spent doing the cabin speakers, head unit, getting the power cable and rca cables started. Here is a shot of the door with the panel removed Here is the mounting plate we had to build. The stock location was only good for 4" speakers and I have 5.25". Derrick built a pretty sharp plate system. Here is the door showing the crossover and mid mounted A close up of the door panel showing the tweeter mount location And here is the door back together. You can see the mount spot for the tweeter, which is not installed yet. We are going to play around with the angles to get them aimed properly for a great front stage. The doors are all back together and tweeters flush mounted. This is a shot of the rear speaker area. You can see the eclipse crossover screwed to the car with everything zip tied together. Here is the rear speaker area with the 6.5" point source installed. It holds 6.5" stock, so we only had to build a spacer to get the speakers to fit snug. And this is the dash pulled apart. We just got the head unit installed with the rca's connected. Below the radio is the HKS boost controller and the HKS turbo timer. Here is the dash put back together with everything in place. Derrick custom made the plastic side pieces around the boost controller and turbo timer, then wrapped them in vinyl to match the rest of the dash. A shot from the hatch showing the interior of the car. Most of the items installed today were able to go in the stock locations with little changes made. We were trying to make it look as factory as possible, whenever possible. The only part of the cabin install that is not factory are the tweeter locations. We did not want to sacrifice sound imaging, and the spot we chose proved to be the best option. Everything else can be returned to original which is what I was trying to accomplish.

1994 Toyota Supra TurboThis is my current project. Some of you may remember my previous car, World's Loudest Viper. I recently sold the viper and bought this supra. Of course I removed the stereo before selling it!! :) For those of you wondering why I went from a viper to a supra, I'll try to explain. I love to drag race my cars. The viper was getting killed at the track by these pesky 6 cyl turbo cars! Not to mention the monthly payment on the viper did not justify the once per week I was driving it. I was able to sell the viper and pay cash for the supra. Looking back, I dont regret selling the viper. I have now become hooked on forced induction. You hear alot of guys saying "there's no replacement for displacement". I'm here to tell you that "technology is the replacement for displacement"! After spending around $1500 in performance parts, this supra will now destroy my old viper on the track! I will document on the following pages the installation progress of the sound system in the supra. Thanks for looking, and please be sure to vote.Well, here is my new baby:When I bought the car it was pretty much stock and had never had the boost increased. I changed all that very quickly. With race gas and running 19-20psi of boost, HP output is 500 bhp. On the dyno recently she put down 435 rwhp sae. I just added a vpc and afc on 12/30/02. With them untuned I was able to pick up 10rwhp. I just recently completed the install of the new single turbo kit. It is an RPS kit using a Precision Turbo 63mm turbo. At 18psi this thing is just loads of fun, at 26psi it is unfreakenbelieavable :) In order to support the increased airflow this turbo produces I needed to upgrade the fuel system. For that task I enlisted the services of Polk Performance in Bryant Arkansas. They handled the job beautifully and did excellent work taking care of the car and making sure that I was happy. We just put the car on the dyno on 12/1/03 at Polk Performance. Running 1.8 bar(~26psi) boost the car made 605 rwhp and 570 rwtq, which equates to 712 hp and 671 torque at the motor. The boost only dynosheet is below:I recently installed an NX wet nitrous kit and got some new numbers on the bottle. I was spraying a 65 shot of nitrous on this pull. For some reason, the car was losing power in the upper rpm's. It looks like the nitrous shut off around 5700 rpm's and cost me around 30 hp. If the nitrous would have sprayed all the way across, the rwhp number would have been closer to 680 rwhp! I will figure out what happened and get back to the dyno for some new nitrous numbers that will show the full potential of my set up. The nitrous dyno sheet is below:Below is a list of the current modifications. EngineStock 2JZ-GTE motorRPS turbo kit, PTE TE63 turboHKS Adjustable Cam GearsHose Techniques Silicone HoseHardpipes.com Polished Upper Radiator PipeApex'i IntakeHKS VPC (eliminates the maf)Apex'i S-AFC (air/fuel controller)NX wet kitFuel SystemPolk Performance designed and installedPolk Performance polished fuel railTwin walbro 255 pumps780cc injectorsAeromotive fuel pressure regulatorK&N high flow fuel filterB&M fuel pressure gauge mounted to reg-8 steel braided feed line-6 steel braided lines to rail-6 steel braided return lineAeroquip AN fittingsBoost ControlGreddy BCC (boost cut controller)HKS EVC EZHKS Super Sequential BOVHKS Racing Type 1 BOVGaugesApex'i EL 60mm electronic boost gaugeApex'i EL 60mm electronic EGT gaugeFJO Wideband O2 MeterExhaustHKS Super Dragger Cat-BackRPS MidpipeRPS Downpipe with flex sectionCoolingGreddy 3 row Front Mount IntercoolerGreddy Oil Filter Relocation KitDrivetrainSouth Bend 6 Puck Dual Friction DiscSouth Bend Pressure PlateFidanza Alluminum FlywheelB&M Ripper ShifterSuspensionEibach Pro Kit SpringsKYB AGX Adjustable ShocksRactive Strut Tower BraceBrakesGoodriche Stainless LinesStillen Metal Matrix PadsMotul 600 Dot 4 FluidWheels/TiresBlitz 03 Wheels, 18x9F and 18x10RBrigestone Potenza Pole Position S-03 Tires. Size 255/35/18 front, 285/35/18 rear.Nitto 555R Drag Radial's on Stock Rear Wheels. Size 275/40/17.AccessoriesOEM Euro glass headlightsWhite Face GaugesHKS Turbo TimerXenon Hi/Low/Fog LightsBel 980 Radar DetectorFuture ModsTRD Steering WheelBody ModificationsNew PaintMy other installs can be viewed at the following links:2000 Dodge Viper, sold2000 Toyota Tacoma 4WD

Ok, when we last left off the box was finished. Now we need a place to mount the amps. We decided to mount an amp on each side of the box so we built a shelf on each side for that purpose. Here are a couple pics of the box with the amp shelves. Here we are just test fitting the box with the amps in the car. With the amps mounted, here we are connecting the subs to the 1000d amp. We used 8ga cable for the subs. Here you can see all the power connections thru the distribution blocks. The shelf on the back will be home to the lightning audio stiffening cap.This is the box mounted in the car and everything wired up and ready to rock!A straight on shot of the trunk with everything hooked up.We finally got to listen to the system today after weeks of waiting. I wish I could fully describe the cleanness of the sound. Crisp highs, great midrange, and accurate lows is what it's all about!All that remains now is to build the trim panels to tie everything we built into the form of the trunk. Those pictures are on the next page

Today was the day we finished it all up. Just doing the trim panels today took us about 12 hours. We made templates with cardboard then traced them out on 1/4 masonite board. We then cut and sanded on them untill the fit was correct, installed the "pops" to hold them in place, then wrapped them in vinyl. Here we are test fitting the front panel. I plan to mount a nitrous bottle here at some point :) Testing the side trim panels. Everything completed. Driver side view. Everything completed. Passenger side view.The overall shot of the new and improved trunk area :)Here are the new pics showing the custom billet nitrous bottle bracket and the install in the hatch area. Once again I want to thank all the guys at Bryant Car Stereo for exceeding my expectations and providing a great looking, and more importantly, great sounding install!! Mark, Matt, Derrick, and Dallas...YOU GUYS ROCK!

Ok, today was box building day! If it wasn't for that stupid hump that the spare tire used to reside on, it would have been alot less time consuming. We didn't let that little set back stop us though! Derrick designed a wedge style box with 2 step up's to go over the hump. We did the 2 steps to keep the airspace loss to a minimum. After all was said and done we still have 2.15 cu/ft, which is perfect for the 2 eclipse alluminum subs. Here is the floor of the hatch area prepped with sound deadening spray. This stuff works great! This is the bottom of the sub box with the steps to go over the hump. We stiffened it up with fiberglass to help stop any unwanted resonances. Inside of the box Inside of the box after sealing with silicone. Top of the box The box all put together, this is the bottom showing the steps again.

Today was spent tidying up a few of the loose ends we had yesterday. For starters, we had to create a place to mount the huge tsunami ANL fuse holder. There was not any room close to the battery, so we had to dream up something. Not to mention it had to be under 18" from the battery due to USACi rules. Here is the wire in front of one of my 18" wheels. This is the wire we used from the battery to the fuse holder. We took the battery out and were able to make a mount shelf for the fuse holder. The battery fits right back in place. You can also see the Tsunami battery terminals we used. They each will accept two 4 gauge and two 8 gauge cables. We installed the remote amp control for the Memphis st1000d in the center console box. All the cables and wire are run to the hatch area. As you can see, there is a big ole hump right in the middle of everything! The spare tire used to reside here. We didn't know that was there untill today, so that kinda threw us for a loop. We do have some idea's cooking though :) You guys will just have to check the next page to see what we decide to do :)

Audio ComponentsEclipse 55040 Head UnitEclipse 8052 5.25" ComponentsEclipse 8963 6.5" Point SourceEclipse 88120 DVC 12" Alluminum Subs (2)Memphis ST1000D 1100w @ 1 ohmMemphis ST3004 75w x 4 @ 4 ohmsLightning Audio 1 Farad Stiffening Capacitor with digital volt readoutTsunami Twisted Pair RCA CablesTsunami 4 Gauge Power/Ground cablesTsunami Speaker WireTsunami Battery TerminalsTsunami ANL Fuse HolderFollowing the excellent job done on my viper, I would not even consider having another shop to work on my supra. So, once again, im headed to Bryant Car Stereo in Bryant, AR for the install. These guys have treated me very well for any and all of my car audio and security needs. If anyone reading this is in the central Arkansas area, I highly recommend you give them a call.INSTALL PICSThis first day of the install was spent doing the cabin speakers, head unit, getting the power cable and rca cables started. Here is a shot of the door with the panel removed Here is the mounting plate we had to build. The stock location was only good for 4" speakers and I have 5.25". Derrick built a pretty sharp plate system. Here is the door showing the crossover and mid mounted A close up of the door panel showing the tweeter mount location And here is the door back together. You can see the mount spot for the tweeter, which is not installed yet. We are going to play around with the angles to get them aimed properly for a great front stage. The doors are all back together and tweeters flush mounted. This is a shot of the rear speaker area. You can see the eclipse crossover screwed to the car with everything zip tied together. Here is the rear speaker area with the 6.5" point source installed. It holds 6.5" stock, so we only had to build a spacer to get the speakers to fit snug. And this is the dash pulled apart. We just got the head unit installed with the rca's connected. Below the radio is the HKS boost controller and the HKS turbo timer. Here is the dash put back together with everything in place. Derrick custom made the plastic side pieces around the boost controller and turbo timer, then wrapped them in vinyl to match the rest of the dash. A shot from the hatch showing the interior of the car. Most of the items installed today were able to go in the stock locations with little changes made. We were trying to make it look as factory as possible, whenever possible. The only part of the cabin install that is not factory are the tweeter locations. We did not want to sacrifice sound imaging, and the spot we chose proved to be the best option. Everything else can be returned to original which is what I was trying to accomplish.

1994 Toyota Supra TurboThis is my current project. Some of you may remember my previous car, World's Loudest Viper. I recently sold the viper and bought this supra. Of course I removed the stereo before selling it!! :) For those of you wondering why I went from a viper to a supra, I'll try to explain. I love to drag race my cars. The viper was getting killed at the track by these pesky 6 cyl turbo cars! Not to mention the monthly payment on the viper did not justify the once per week I was driving it. I was able to sell the viper and pay cash for the supra. Looking back, I dont regret selling the viper. I have now become hooked on forced induction. You hear alot of guys saying "there's no replacement for displacement". I'm here to tell you that "technology is the replacement for displacement"! After spending around $1500 in performance parts, this supra will now destroy my old viper on the track! I will document on the following pages the installation progress of the sound system in the supra. Thanks for looking, and please be sure to vote.Well, here is my new baby:When I bought the car it was pretty much stock and had never had the boost increased. I changed all that very quickly. With race gas and running 19-20psi of boost, HP output is 500 bhp. On the dyno recently she put down 435 rwhp sae. I just added a vpc and afc on 12/30/02. With them untuned I was able to pick up 10rwhp. I just recently completed the install of the new single turbo kit. It is an RPS kit using a Precision Turbo 63mm turbo. At 18psi this thing is just loads of fun, at 26psi it is unfreakenbelieavable :) In order to support the increased airflow this turbo produces I needed to upgrade the fuel system. For that task I enlisted the services of Polk Performance in Bryant Arkansas. They handled the job beautifully and did excellent work taking care of the car and making sure that I was happy. We just put the car on the dyno on 12/1/03 at Polk Performance. Running 1.8 bar(~26psi) boost the car made 605 rwhp and 570 rwtq, which equates to 712 hp and 671 torque at the motor. The boost only dynosheet is below:I recently installed an NX wet nitrous kit and got some new numbers on the bottle. I was spraying a 65 shot of nitrous on this pull. For some reason, the car was losing power in the upper rpm's. It looks like the nitrous shut off around 5700 rpm's and cost me around 30 hp. If the nitrous would have sprayed all the way across, the rwhp number would have been closer to 680 rwhp! I will figure out what happened and get back to the dyno for some new nitrous numbers that will show the full potential of my set up. The nitrous dyno sheet is below:Below is a list of the current modifications. EngineStock 2JZ-GTE motorRPS turbo kit, PTE TE63 turboHKS Adjustable Cam GearsHose Techniques Silicone HoseHardpipes.com Polished Upper Radiator PipeApex'i IntakeHKS VPC (eliminates the maf)Apex'i S-AFC (air/fuel controller)NX wet kitFuel SystemPolk Performance designed and installedPolk Performance polished fuel railTwin walbro 255 pumps780cc injectorsAeromotive fuel pressure regulatorK&N high flow fuel filterB&M fuel pressure gauge mounted to reg-8 steel braided feed line-6 steel braided lines to rail-6 steel braided return lineAeroquip AN fittingsBoost ControlGreddy BCC (boost cut controller)HKS EVC EZHKS Super Sequential BOVHKS Racing Type 1 BOVGaugesApex'i EL 60mm electronic boost gaugeApex'i EL 60mm electronic EGT gaugeFJO Wideband O2 MeterExhaustHKS Super Dragger Cat-BackRPS MidpipeRPS Downpipe with flex sectionCoolingGreddy 3 row Front Mount IntercoolerGreddy Oil Filter Relocation KitDrivetrainSouth Bend 6 Puck Dual Friction DiscSouth Bend Pressure PlateFidanza Alluminum FlywheelB&M Ripper ShifterSuspensionEibach Pro Kit SpringsKYB AGX Adjustable ShocksRactive Strut Tower BraceBrakesGoodriche Stainless LinesStillen Metal Matrix PadsMotul 600 Dot 4 FluidWheels/TiresBlitz 03 Wheels, 18x9F and 18x10RBrigestone Potenza Pole Position S-03 Tires. Size 255/35/18 front, 285/35/18 rear.Nitto 555R Drag Radial's on Stock Rear Wheels. Size 275/40/17.AccessoriesOEM Euro glass headlightsWhite Face GaugesHKS Turbo TimerXenon Hi/Low/Fog LightsBel 980 Radar DetectorFuture ModsTRD Steering WheelBody ModificationsNew PaintMy other installs can be viewed at the following links:2000 Dodge Viper, sold2000 Toyota Tacoma 4WD

Ok, today was box building day! If it wasn't for that stupid hump that the spare tire used to reside on, it would have been alot less time consuming. We didn't let that little set back stop us though! Derrick designed a wedge style box with 2 step up's to go over the hump. We did the 2 steps to keep the airspace loss to a minimum. After all was said and done we still have 2.15 cu/ft, which is perfect for the 2 eclipse alluminum subs. Here is the floor of the hatch area prepped with sound deadening spray. This stuff works great! This is the bottom of the sub box with the steps to go over the hump. We stiffened it up with fiberglass to help stop any unwanted resonances. Inside of the box Inside of the box after sealing with silicone. Top of the box The box all put together, this is the bottom showing the steps again.

Today was spent tidying up a few of the loose ends we had yesterday. For starters, we had to create a place to mount the huge tsunami ANL fuse holder. There was not any room close to the battery, so we had to dream up something. Not to mention it had to be under 18" from the battery due to USACi rules. Here is the wire in front of one of my 18" wheels. This is the wire we used from the battery to the fuse holder. We took the battery out and were able to make a mount shelf for the fuse holder. The battery fits right back in place. You can also see the Tsunami battery terminals we used. They each will accept two 4 gauge and two 8 gauge cables. We installed the remote amp control for the Memphis st1000d in the center console box. All the cables and wire are run to the hatch area. As you can see, there is a big ole hump right in the middle of everything! The spare tire used to reside here. We didn't know that was there untill today, so that kinda threw us for a loop. We do have some idea's cooking though :) You guys will just have to check the next page to see what we decide to do :)