--T56 CONVERSION WIRING GUIDE--

This is a little Wiring Guide of the Wiring that I did to my Car for the T56 Conversion.

Harness Wiring

First thing that was done was re-wiring the Harness for the T56 Transmission. I'm used the same Harness that I built to put the 402 LQ4/L92 Stroker Engine in my Car.

In the Harness, strip out all the Auto Wiring except one wire that goes to the PCM(I left the Torque Convertor Clutch Signal wire, you will need this eventually for the Reverse Lockout Signal), and also leave the pink power wire that powers the Solenoids for the 4L60E Transmission. To find the power wire, trace the pink wires in the 4L60E Transmission Connector, the wire will go through the Harness and eventually to the Connectors on the Fender. This is the same for the LT1 Harness also. You will need this wire to power the Reverse Lights, and the Reverse Lockout Connector.

Reverse Lights:
Start with an open Pin on the Harness Connectors that plug into the ones under the Dash. Make sure that on the Car side of the Connector it's also one that is open. Wire that pin, and then wire it through the Harness and eventually to the Reverse Light Connector for the T56. It will splice into the Wire that's green(non power wire) on the Connector. It will help to have a Tranny to measure the length..try to use my pic to judge it, it's got a brown Connector. I placed it about 6" down from the branch of wiring in the Harness that goes to the Transmission, made it about 12" in length. This will make your Reverse Lights work properly.

Reverse Lockout:
Take the Reverse Lockout Connector and lay it next to the VSS Connector(the wiring is about the same length). Take the green wire(non-power wire) from the Connector and connect it to the one wire that you left in the Harness from when you stripped out all the Auto stuff(not the power wire, the one that I was referring to above to leave going to the PCM), and then take the other end that's at the PCM and put it to the Pin on the PCM Connectors is the Reverse Lockout. I don't know what exactly the one is for the LT1's, the LS1 F-body's is PCM RED #44. This will make the Reverse Lockout function like it's factory when the Car is tuned for it.

Skip Shift: I didn't bother with this because I removed it from the Transmission.

If you have done everything by what I just said at this point, you should have the pink wires left. You are going to connect the pink wires from the Reverse Light and Reverse Lockout Connectors into the power one that I said to leave that was in the Harness, this will be the Fused Power for them.

Basically I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed the Connectors for T56 Reverse Lockout, and T56 Reverse Lights. The VSS(Speed Sensor) stayed the same.

Interior Wiring

Basically with the Interior Wiring I removed all the Automatic Wiring and installed several things for the T56 Wiring. I wired the Reverse Lights, installed a Neutral Safety Switch for the T56, and I re-wired the Pedal Switches to dis-engage the Cruise Control as well.
Some of the wires in the Car will be power wires and they must be properly capped off if they are not removed.

Reverse Lights:
Take the Reverse Light wire off of the Auto Switch on the Shifter(Lime Green wire in the pic) and extend it over to the Harness Connectors on the Passenger Side. Connect it in on the same pin that you did on the Engine Harness side.

Neutral Safety Switch:
I installed a Relay onto the Starter Wire coming from the Ignition Switch, I made it so it's activated with the Neutral Safety Switch on the Clutch Pedal. Basically when the Pedal is pushed in, the Relay activates and allows the Start Signal to go to the Starter and turn the Car on. I wired it to where the Relay is only energized with the Key in the START Position, not the RUN Position, that way the Relay doesn't energize everytime I push the Clutch in.

Cruise Dis-engage Switch on Clutch Petal:
There are 2 Switches on the Brake Pedal in these cars..one of the Switches has 2 Connectors going to it, the other has 1. The Switch with the 2 Connectors is for the Brake Lights(3-Wire Connector closest to Pedals), and for the Convertor Lock/Unlock. The smaller single-Connector Switch is used for the Cruise Control dis-engage.
What I did was move the smaller Switch over to the Clutch Petal, then I cut the Convertor Switch Wiring and wired that switch into the Cruise Control Switch wiring. Now what used to be the Convertor Lock/Unlock is now the Cruise Disengage on the Brake Petal. Since the car is now a Standard, this opens up this option, and it works like it did from the factory. For it to work right, both Switch Connectors must be wired in series with each other on the Cruise Control Circuit.

This swap isn't diffifcult, just time consuming as well.