Stock Pics & Installation Pics
100Amp Fuse used for sound system :D.
This is the car before I got it
The Zetec 16V DOHC engine providing 130hp
Rear Speaker installation
I put in 6x4 from my old car so I had to make back plates to fit them in the 5x7 hole
Here they are both already installed just need to put the cover back on
the sound system setup diagram, the fuse I used is a 100AMP Industrial Standard
Painting some dashboard piecies, this is the main piece that covers the instrumentation dash cluster, I painted the vents for the window & the passanger vent covers as well
Here it is again from another angle, what you wanna do before applying paint is sand it with 120-220 paper, then 400 and 600 or 1500 until its smooth as desired
This is it again, before painting, and after sanding you wanna wipe it off with final wipe solvent, or something strong that will clean it off.
Giving it 3-4 coats is best for when it scratches etc..
I examined the instrumentaiton cluster aswell to find out how to install the reverse glow and paint anything inside.. I dont think they make any reverse glow lights in km/h for the escort :(
This is a door lock actuator, I got it form the junkyard, can also be purchased on ebay, both of them are thesame on both sides and can be pulled from a zx2 that only has the one on the drivers side. The wiring is already in the doors, you just have to extend it from the rubber that goes into the door, to the actual acutoatr, also you will need a steel wire, I recommend getting the one from the zx2 that you got the acutator from, but if it dosn't come with one you can make one yourself. I recommend getting the ford part tho. After that you will need to hook that actuator up to the door lock using that steel wire/bar and make sure you got the wires right going to the actuator, its a motor so make sure you get lock/unlock right cuz it reverses the polarity when locking and unlocking. To hook this up you can find the green/orange wire inside the harness going to the door (inside the rubber going into the door), and there will also be another wire beside it, it is basically next to the speaker wires, opposite end of the mirror wires. You will see the wires going to the mirror and the speakers once you open the door. The only other 2 wires left are for the actuator, and you will see them because they are pretty thick, thicker than the rest. To open the door is simple, unscrew the handle by popping off the plastics where the handle is and unscrewing using a phillips, also get the ones on the outside of the door (2) small phillips plastic snapins, remove all other snapins , there should be 2, and then start from the bottom to unsnap the door panel.
REMOVING REAR CUSHION:
I removed the back seat the other day to clean it and found glass underneath. I noticed that the wiring harness for the fuel pump has no fuse under the seat but its under the hood as opposed to the probe. The seat is really easy to remove, same as the probe using clips you can press in with a screwdriver, it gives good access to the fuel pump below.
REMOTE/KEYLESS POWER DOOR LOCK ENTRY
OK, so I played around this for the whole weekend almost, my light didn't turn on anymroe when I hit the unlock button so I got furious and started taknig everything apart ( I just recently put in the 2nd actuator on the passanger door). Anyways I tested all the wires @ the power door locks /keyless relay and found out that there is only a few important ones associated with switches. Here are the colors:
Gray - Lock Doors (both)
Purple - Unlock drivers door, also used for the dome light to come on ( I had to rewire it & use a diode so the dome light wont open the doors).
Blue - unlock both doors
Green/black - Unlock trunk
White - I think its just a 12V cable.
I think that is all you will need if you want some cool things going on.. Anyways I decided to put some butons on the dash for opening / closing doors and it worked out alrite, I used pc push buttons from used atx cases, in the future I wanna put them in the middle so the passanger & driver have access to them.
POWERED DOOR LOCK BUTTONS
If you have keyless but no power door lock buttons on the inside of your car, this will let you add some. Locate the harness with the remote trunk release wire described above, now find the GRAY and BLUE wires, these are solid color and 1 is for opening the door, the other for closing the door. Before doing this mod I recommend getting a Solenoid for the passanger door so both doors will open with your keyless entry & power door locks, I don't have one on the passanger door so I will get one and do the mod then. I'll give more details when I actually do it.
REMOTE TRUNK RELEASE
This only works if you have the power option for keyeless entry etc.. You will need a push button for this, not an on/off switch, just a 12 volt impulse is needed to open the trunk. The wire that opens the trunk is on the passanger side kick panel, just underneath under the dash by the passenger door, there are 3 plastic snaps holding it, remove them, 1 is by the hinges of the door, so you'lll need to open the door. Once open you will see a few wiring harnesses, look for a green w/ black stripe wire in a male plug almost near the bottom, the wire will be a few slots away from all the other wires in the male connection plug. What you can do to test this out is hook up a volt meter to the wire, no splicing required even just slipt it into where it connects in the male plug. Now run a wire from your fuse box thats currently on and attach it to the on your volt meter, take the - wire on your volt meter and touch it to the wire coming from the green/black wire for the remote trunk release, now press the keyless entry remote trunk release and you will see the volts go up, if it does then you found the right wire, if not try the other green/black wires in the other harnesses. If you find the right harness with the correct green black wire you can also add other remote buttons e.g. for your doors. Anyways connect your push button 1 wire to the ground of the car, 1 to the remote trunk wire and mount the button where you want, I mounted mine under the dash near the glove compartment so both the passanger & driver can get to it and its not in the way to avoid incidental pressing.
SHIFT ROD/ SHIFTER
Problem: Loose shifter problem, also the shifter vibrates when driving at higher speeds. I suspect its the bushings.
Solution: Get a pack of 2 or 4 shifter rod bushings, there are 2 that connect at the shifter end, and 2 at the transmission end. Replacing those will get rid of the vibration, if you use tighter, more harder bushings for a more tighter shifter you will still get vibrations, so you sacrifice a bit of noise for a tighter shift. To get rid of the vibrations I recommend getting a steal/aluminum shift knob that attaches with allan bolts, apply electrical tape & or plastic to the shifter where the knob will go, this helps alot with vibrations. Also I noticed on the transmission where the rod is there is a small steal block mounted with silicone, if this falls off you will get more vibrations, mine did so i will have to silicone it back on with windshield silicone.
COLOURED LIGHT BULBS
Problem & Solution: Buying special coloured light bulbs is expensive and they usually are cheaper than the plain ones you buy. They only last a few months before burning out, I'm talking about the cheap lights that are like $10 a piece made by APC, and your paying 4x the price or more because thier blue. I found a nice solution to avoid buying them, just get plain white lites and you can use a permanent marker of the color of your choice to color them in. The more coats you apply the darker the effect (more blue, more colorful..) I recommend Sharpie markers, I tried various ones including industrial strength permanent markers but they didn't cover as well as others.
IAT SENSOR TRICK MOD
This mod is pretty easy, you can use a 1K Ohm to 10K ohm resistor, or an adjustable resistor that you can hookup under the dash somewhere. You will need to locate the IAT Sensor, it is on your intake near where the filter goes, it is the one with 2 wires going to it, you will need to cut one and install the resistor in between, it dosn't matter which wire you use to cut. I used a terminal block on each side so instead of soldering the wire their just pressed togehter with screws. Let me try to draw the diagram with a switch to let you turn the mod on and off:
IAT Cable _________/\/\/\________ Other end of IAT wire
Extra Switch |_____/ _________|
Switch to short the circuit, & bypass resistor
I didn't do it this way, but I thought of it I just used a resistor that you can adjust the resistance with from 0 Ohms to 10K ohms.
GOVENOR/ ECU SPEED LIMITER
Problem: Did anyone disable their govenor without having the check engine come on? Let me know if theres something out there, is getting a mod chip for the ECU gonna do it? Is there a way of chipping the ECU yourself? On google I found this link that said its possible and that the guy actually did it but he didn't explain how.
Problem & Solution: Cheap back break shoes made alot of noise when breaking so I had to replace them. I found Monroe Premium break shoes that were actually thinner than the ones I had on there originally. The padding was thinner but once I put them in the noise was gone. I recommend these
BLEEDING THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
My clutch is either going or needs some adjustment, I already adjusted the cable freeplay and height which can be done using a 12mm and 10mm wrenches underneath dash where the pedal is. To bleed the clutch you will need a 8mm wrench and a hose, and a container to dispense the liquid. The slave cylinder is located on the transmission under the hood, between the radiator and the tranny, it has a piece of rubber covering the bleeding screw. You have to get someone to pump the clutch pedal and hold it as you release the screw to let the fluid out and get the air out of the system. do this until no more air bubbles come out. lock the screw and repeat if necessary. I will post pics below when I do it.
If you look just between the radiator and the tranny, go deep down you will find the bleeder screw for the slave clutch cylinder. You can see my screwdriver there in the pic above.
I melted some holes and put these tweeters in, still working on the crossover, but I found some great links on how to do it using capacitors and inductors. I want to limit the amount of volme that comes out of these speakers so I'll use a resistor. View pics below. I will be adding my own cross over composed of inductors, resistors, and capacitors soon...
REAR TAIL LIGHTS:
I painted my rear tail lights, i'll post the pictures soon but when I put the one in the oven to cure faster I left it in too long and it melted, so there are melt marks on it, i'll probably get a new set and do it over because of this, other than that it looks good..
The other day I was coming back from the bar & noticed a police car while I was speeding, so to avoid any tickets I hid in a parking lot, one that I was not familiar with, I was driving and all of a sudden the parking lot drops 90 degrees straight down 2Feet, I was going about 30km/h so I didn't get stuck just busted up my bumper a bit & what saved the car from more serious demage is the steel bar & holes underneath used for hauling the car. The bumper was already a bit rough, I will have to fix it anyways in the summer so no big deal. Heres what it looked like, I called it the ZX2 stunt jump but it was not intentional just didn't see it, luckily the car made it and kept driving, didn't get stuck between the 2 levels of the lot, just hit the bottom, made some big scratch marks when it hit and I kept driving:
GOT THE CAR DECEMBER 2005:
I got a great deal on this one off a dealer I knew, it had 198,500KM, and there are some minor things I have to take care of. I need to do some body work, theres a small hole in the muffler, the bumper is a bit messed up, I already got a new one but I'm waiting till the spring to paint the bumper cover. This is my 5th car, and the fastest, probably best car I had so far, not sure yet because the probe was nice but the rest of the cars weren't nor were they fast. Most of them were above 15 seconds 0-60mph, except the CRX which was pretty fast and would keep up with the ZX2 with a 0-60mph of 8.4 seconds, and after taking off almost every part off it, it was doing under 7.5 seconds w/ K&N air filter LOL.
When looking for a car I recommend you check all the fluids, check for rust, exhaust hole leaks, possibly examine the e-test, check to see if you can check the PSi in the cylinders, do research to find out what the specs should be in the first place for it. Check for any suspicious looking body work or uneven things e.g. the hood, make sure gaps are equal. Look for scratches and dents, examine all the accessories to make a note of what is and what isn't working. Check for leaks underneath, make sure e-break is working, make sure car makes no noise or make sure your away what is making noise e.g. exhast hole or brakes or bearings or struts / shocks. I suggest you look at the car, don't get too excited just sleep on it and make your decision the next day and also make sure you look at a ton of other cars.
SHORT SHIFTER INSTALLATION:
You'll need to probably remove the exhaust cover underneath the car, I suggest you put the car on some ramps first and go underneath, unscrew cover i think there are 5 10MM bolts. Next you wanna unscrew the shifter bar from the shifter rod, it uses a 12MM so you can do it by using 2 12s, one on each side, one on bolt, one on nut. Now you wanna go inside your car and remove the e-break cover by unscrewing the 2 philips screws near the back, and taking it off by pulling up & over the ebreak. Next remove the 4 clips holding the cup holder plastic where the shifter is aswell, don't forget to remove your shift knob, and now pull the plastic up and it will come off. Next you don't have to remove the whole assembly here where the shifter is.. I did but its not necessary, I just replaced other things etc.. and was just checking it out.. All you need to do now is remove the spring that holds your shifter rod in place, to do this use a screw driver and wedge it out where it sticks out, it will pop off and now you can pull the shifter right out assuming that its unscrewed from underneath like I described before hand. Pull it out and put the new one in, It might not go in easily so what you do is go underneath the car and start putting stuff back together, dont forget to put the new bushings in if you have them , put the 12mm bolt & screw through the new shifter with the bushings and washer and now wedge with a crowbar down on the shifter bar going to the tranny to get the shifter to pop down in place.. Once thats done tighten the 12MM rod and go back uptop and put the spring back into place.. this might be hard to do, I wedged it in on one side (oval side) and pushed the remaining part with the screw driver and it worked out alrite.. now that thats in you can start putting everything back, all the plastic etc.. and your shift knob. At the bottom aswell your done here so put back the heat shield if you took it off and don't forget to try out the shifter to make sure it shifts alrite. You will find that its about 6cm to 10cm shorter than the original, and you will have to yank it harder to get it over to gears but with less throw. Also the height is different so you have to get used to it and I noticed when shifting I had to get used to the short throw feel.
b&M short shift inside with a bearing on it and you can see the ENERGY SUSPENSION stabilizer bushing there beside it, its about 3.4cm in diameter, the shfiter busings are 1.4cm in diameter and a bit bigger on the outide walls.
My shifter installed, the blue thing is my 1gb verbatim key chain flash drive, it adds HP :P im just kidding !! Geez you damn ricers hehe
it feels great!
Underneath where it was connected to the stabilizer rod etc..
Apply these on a warmer day and make sure surface is clean, also ensure you allign it properly with your eye on where you want to put it.
STABILIZER BUSHING on TRANNY END for SHITER
This is pretty simple, wil take you about 30 mintues or less, 15 if you have all the tools and are quick. You will need a 14MM wrench/socket.. remove the double nuts on the end of the shift bar whre you see the rod eye bushing, now pop out the old bushing, this might be the hard part, I wedged out the steel middle core first by using a small round bar and then with a screw driver I wedged out the center rubber. Next put the new polyurethene bushings in and the new steel core and put everything back together.. your done
MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE
The drain plug is easy to find its on the bottom of the tranny, the spot to add new fluid is at the speed sensor, you have to unscrew it and add fluid there, the recommended fluid is ATF mecron (yes automatic tranny fluid for the manual transaxel).. The fords do that.. dunno why, but they say not to use gear oil. Anyways I'm not sure where the speed sensor is, I couldnt' find it, I want to do this soon so if I find it I will post some pics, or if anyone else knows where it is let me know.
Typical ford speed sensor
I would like to add that you can use the front 23mm fill bolt instead, I made a custom funnel with a hose and used about 3.3L of m1 syntetic mecron. Just drain the fluid using the bottom screw, then add the new fluid in the fill screw. Look at pic for more details.
FLUID LEVELS: for manual transmission use 3.38L of ATF mecron and for the engine use 4L of 10W30 or in summer 5W30.
Clean the botto of the car so there is no salt or dirt, then wipe it off with some paint thinner or final wipe solution before painting, prepare the rubberized undercoat and spary underneath and try to avoid not getting any on the exhaust. Once done let it dry and then run the car for 20 minutes to burn off any excess coating that got on the exhaust or parts that get warm. I also recommend you cover up your rims or you'll have fun cleaning them off afterwards (very time consuming).
FIXING CAR AUDIO ELECTRONICS (AMPLIFIER)
When your car audio amplifier fails that means the short circuit protection failed or it overheated.. This can be caused by a short in the speaker wires or the power wires which sould disable the amplifier until the short is gone, this triggers the short circuit protection which is activated usually by a thermal sensor that quickly reacts to the change in temperature and shuts off your amplifier.. What happened in my case is the short was touching all the time, and shorting out then opening and causing the amp to turn on and off.. gradually building up heat on the short circuit protection which shorted out my MOSFTER power supply transistors inside the amplifier. Since these transistors are super sensitive they blew before the fuses did, and since its a mono class d amp all the transistors are inline so they all blew. The best thing to do is open it up and see if there is any blackened areas, and pull out some of those components by heating it up with a solder gun and pulling it out and testing it, you can find the specs for most electrical components on sites like "all data sheet" To test out these devices you will need to read some stuff on resistors, capacitors, inductors, transistors etc.. on a site like "how stuff works", and you will also need some testing stuff like a multi-meter to test for ohmage voltage and amplitude etc.. Good Luck!
FLEX PIPE (TEMPORARY FIX):
I used some clamps to fix it for now, its less noisy and I can't really smell it inside, the new part costs $180 and I have't seen one on ebay.. Anyone know anything about this?
REAR SWAY BAR /ANTI ROLL BAR SWAYBAR
Don't worry about your front sway bar, its 25mm thick so its pretty good,you just might wanna change the end links , get some energy suspension bushings installed instead of the rubber stock ones.
For the back there is a 13mm swaybar and its very flimsy, I recommend getting a different one to get rid of understeer, theres the 19mm found on the 1992-96 ford escort lx, and the 21mm on the 92-96 escort GT (recommended), and you can also go for a 91-92 protoge rear sway bar thats 20mm. Also get the new 21mm or whatever you got bushings and new end link bolts and washers. There are 4 bolts holding the thing, here is a picture to help you out.
REAR SWAYBAR BUSHINGS BOLTS AND WASHERS
I was only trying to tighten these up when they snapped, so I cut my own new bolts, got some screws, reused the rubber, but made a new spacer out of steel, no more plastic, it was cheap anyways this is much better.
CHECK TIMING BELT
The Way I did it was removed the 3 8mm bolts on the engine that cover the timing belt, pulled the cover straight up and off, checked it out and it looked good to me so I put it back.
LOWERING SPRINGS AND STRUT ASSEMBLY REMOVAL INSTALLATION
Jack up the car and remove the 4 bolts holding the front strut assembly. The AC line is being held here too so remove it.
Stock front vs 1.8" DZ sports lowering spring
Using the spring compression tool, I put socks in between to prevent the paint from chipping. Before ofcourse putting on the new springs you will have to compress the old one, then remove the center bolt using a 17mm, then remove the top cap and change the springs, try to align it perfectly so that it goes in the same way the old spring was in (there is grooves). When putting the top back on make sure you align it with the screw, there is a groove for this so it will only go in one way.
Now go put it back and screw in the top. Then screw in the 2 fat 17mm bolts in the bottom aswell. They are sometimes a pain to get in out you might need to use a hammer to wedge them out once undone. To get them back in I used a screwdriver to align the holes and then popped them back in. There is also the brake line you have to attach back to the strut, this is held in by a pin that slides in and out.
For the back all you have to remove is the back panel, I removed the side panel to make it easier.. but it wasn't because you have to put it back afterwards.
On the other side I didn't remove the side panel and as you can see there are 2 14mm bolts holding the strut in place and a pin aswell. At the bottom there are 2 17mm bolts, remove those first then remove the 2 top ones and bend the pin back to let the strut assembly drop.
This is the rear strut from the top again, once removed, take off the rubber and compress the spring, then unscrew the 17mm bolt on the top of the strut.
Stock vs lowered rear strut, and as you can see its so low that when you put the back ones in you don't need to compress it, it will just go on but you need to make sure it clamps on right in the end when lowering the car.
I painted the front and back with high heat paint, like 3 coats, then topped it off with 3 coats of acrylic paint for maximum shine. Before doing this tho I sand blasted the whole drums, and front calipers, and I also did the same thing to the struts, I reused the stock struts btw. & its fine.
Same Idea on the other side, here it is with the strut out.
This is the rear strut before I put it back, I sand blasted it and as you can see it looks awsome!
PCV- The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is an emissions control device that routes unburned crankcase blowby gases back into the intake manifold where they can be reburned. The PCV system is one of the oldest emission control devices, and also one of the most beneficial. Besides totally eliminating crankcase emissions as a source of air pollution, the constant recirculation of air through the crankcase helps remove moisture which otherwise would cause sludge to form. Thus the PCV valve extends the life of the oil and engine. The PCV valve requires little maintenance.
Replacement interval: 30,000 to 50,000 miles (48,000 to 80,000kms)
Location: It is by the exhaust manifold/ header stuck to a rubber hose, see the pictures
Removal & Installation:
Pull the valve out of its hole, then while gently holding the rubber hose that it is in, pull on the PCV valve while twisting it, it will soon come out, installation is reverse of remova
WARNING: Careful not to brake the hose, it can easily break in the corner that it bends so be very careful.
IAT & ECT RESISTOR MOD (W/O USING POTENTIOMETERS)
found info on best resitance here;
Dynoed to add 16hp so your car will have 146hps.
You can use a switch that can turn both on and off at same time, remember when closed its not gonna use the resistor, if open it will
Use 25k ohm 1/2volt for ect, and 37.5k ohm 1/2 volt for the iat.
fuel filter - a filter in the fuel line that screens out dirt and rust particles from the fuel, on the zx2 it can be found right before the fuel injectors, and is cylindrical in shape, it hangs on the firewall and is attached to 2 rubber hoses. It traps any dirt in the fuel so that you don't clog your injectors.
Replacement IntervaL: every 60,000 miles (100,000km) or every other year.
Removal & Installation:
You will need to remove the intake from the upper intake resonator down to the air filter to get to the fuel filter easily. Next you need to unscrew it from the firewall using a 6-8mm socket, I dont remember which one it was exactly. Next you will need to pull the plastic clip from the upper hose where the fuel filter is connected to, then there is the same clip at the bottom. Don't worry if you break these, the replacement fuel filter comes with new ones. Now while holding the fuel filter, pull the top hose, and temporarily clog it with something to preven fuel leaking, do the same to the bottom hose, and quickly swap in the new fuel filter, apply the new plastic pins and screw it back onto the firewall.
REMOVING THE TRANNY:
If you need to do it heres a short writeup out of the Chilton manual, theres more steps for installation which I didn't include
remove the battery
remove the air tue /intake assembly
if necessary remove & disconnect CCRM
unplug heated o2 sensor electrical connection
disconnect speedo cable from tranny , the VSS
remove slave cylinder line to slave cylinder hose retaining clip, then disconnect slave cylinder line from slave cylinder hose and plug the hose
install a support bar to hold the tranny
remove insulator nuts forom left hand engine support bracket
remove front and rear upper transaxle to engine bolts
raise & safely support car
drain the transaxle fluid and install drain plug
disconnect ac line from the retained located on the engine support crossmember
unfasten the engine support crossmember bolts and nuts then remove the crossmember
unfasten the gearshift stabilizer bar to transaxle nut then remove the stabilizer bar and support from the transaxle
remove starter motor
disconnect lower slave cylinder tube and remove the slave cylinder
unfasten lower transaxel to engine bolts and remove the transaxle from car
FRONT 02 SENSOR:
you can use a 7/8" wrench underneath the car.. my car had p0133 come up and I used some lubricant on the wires and nut before I was gonna remove it and it fixed the error code.. the wire must have been coroded.
PCM ECU Removal and installation
WARNING: Injry may occur during these various installations, I do not take responsibility for you getting hurt , like I have. stuff like burns, cuts, falling into a hole? Yeah So be responsible.. Look at these pics:
Last time I was tightining the swaybar bushings the bolts snapped on the rear ones so I had to wedge them out, I used a crobar & it slipped and hit me in the face, I got a bad bruise, cuts and my nose was bleeding..hurt pretty bad.