One of the reasons for this site is to help otherss who are going down the same road. While there a lots of pictures, perhaps there is a measurement or view that does not suit your needs. Go ahead and post a comment and I will try to add the image or measurement.
Due to the temporary nature of her stay in my possesion, Lil will be sporting the following plate for the duration of the project. Note that this picture was taken almost four years AFTER the start of the restoration. may 20,2007
Nov 3,2007Lil arrived as one sorry heap of Bug Eye Rust. (November 2003)
The following shows some progress as she comes back to life.Note from the future. March 11, 2006: We have all made the joke about "Jack up the rad cap and build a new car under it"!! Well I had no idea at the time I was bout to embark on such a journey. Really, she did not look TOO bad at first glance.
Did I mention EVERYTHING is coated with TAR?
No worries mate, she buffed right out! (Jan 26 2007)
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It will take till Nov 3, 2007 to reach this stage!
I seem to be missing some metal.
Nothing over here either.THIS IS THE POINT WHERE WE TURN THE CORNER ON THE PROJECT. KEEPIN MIND THAT IT HAS BEEN OVER A YEAR SINCE I STARTED. THIS IS MY FIRST ATTEMPT AT BODYWORK AND SO FAR IT HAS BEEN DEMORALIZING DISCOVERY OF ONE MESS AFTER ANOTHER. I HAVE SPENT OVER FIVE THOUSAND ON ACID DIPPING, PANELS AND TOOLS, AND EVEN I AM NOT SURE THAT IT IS POSSIBLE TO RESTORE THIS THING. I HAVE YET TO WELD ANYTHING IN MY LIFE! THERE COULD BE A STEEP LEARNING CURVE AHEAD SO LETS SEE IF THIS THING CAN HANDLE THE CURVES!
Amazing what a Mig welder and a cheque book can do.
Looking better. Sheet metal screws are holding everything together at this point.
Feb 19,2006 Good day at the shop. I managed to cut out the old trunk floor and fit the new one. Note also how the rotiserie mounts are moved from the rear bumper to the spring boxes. This will take a lot of the stress off the rear clip while it is missing a floor.
Old floor removed
Work has started on the rear clip. Feels good to be doing something that is not structural. All I can say is thank the powers that be for repair panels. The following pictures show todays work.
For those of you going down this path, this is a tricky panel to weld in: You are pretty much commited to a butt weld because of the curve of the rear bit. The join with the back panel is tricky because it has the bead in the middle and is hard to separate. Patience is a BIG part of this job. An important note: if you are going to replace the floor like I am, do not install this panel until after the floor is in!!!
Todays task (march 11, 06) was to replace the entire rear floor panel. I had originally bought a rear trunk floor section only, since nobody listed the entire assembly for the bugeye. Victoria Brit assured me that this panel, made for a MG Midget, would not work with the bugeye, but I bought it anyways figuring "What do they Know"?!
This is a very well made assembly and the differences to the bug are minor. There are a few extra features, but for the most part they are for the better. The panel required NO modifications to fit in the bugeye space.
The new panel looks to be very well made
The old panel comes out by drilling the spotwelds that hold the frame. This is easiest to do from the wheellwell, drilling inwards. Since you will be tossing the old frame rails, you do not need to use a spot-weld cutter, just a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Amazing what a little creativity and the ability to cuss in three languages can acomplish!
Replacing such a large panel is good for instant gratification! Think I had better clean the camera lense also.I am a bit concerned about how the new bump stop is going to work with the finished assembly. It could be removed, but I hope that it will work as an improvement from the original.
Moving to the front. Here are some before and after shots.
Before=BAD