RAPTOR SHIFT LIGHT INSTALL
www.raptorperformance.com

This is the Raptor shift light - small, lightweight,high quality. The adjustments to alter the rpm limit are simple to adjust with a watch screwdriver. The unit comes with two alternate mounting grips. I used the bigger one.

I set the unit for a single feed as it was going to be tapped into the coil feed and set the rpm to 5700.

Test the light to make sure it's working by placing the red and black wires on the battery terminals before you start. That way, if it doesn't work later, you don't have to pull it all apart again.

The red wire needs a switched live feed.
The black is earth.
The green will pick up the coil pulses to calculate the revs.

INSTALLATION
Firstly, determine where you want it mounted. I chose the A-pillar as it was the easiest location. Remove the A-pillar trim. In the first photo, you will see a black square which is a velcro-style pad to which a mushroom-shape fastener attaches. The velcro is supposed to pull off but on mine, the mushroom head snapped off instead so take care. The mushroom head locates into this slot (right)so you need to pull up and back..

Feed the cable down into the slot on top of the dash until it emerges beneath. I didn't drill the trim at all, the cable will just run behind it. Under the dash, secure the cable safely. You now have to get it through the bulkhead!!
I used the outer sleeve of a biro as a conduit. I pushed it into the right hand indent of this rubber grommet (where that single black cable passes through) behind the pedals and through. I used silicon fluid as a lubricant. This tube really needs to curve upwards like a banana for reasons we'll cover in a moment:

There's no easy way to photograph this - this is the area under the driver's side hood hinge where the cable emerges...deep down in that tiny hole. Access is blocked on the inner side by a steel panel and it's almost imposssible to get to so you either have to dismantle this area as best you can (I didn't) or skin your knuckles and arms trying to get hold of that cable (I did). The biro tube is straight and you can't angle it upwards and it's out of reach so a curved tube might work better. However you do it, this is the most frustrating part. In the end, I snapped the biro tube in half in situ so I could push the end up:

I mounted the light using a piece of Velcro after numerous other adhesives just fell off. However, in the heat the glue melts and it falls off. I eneded up using a small screw.
Route the cable across the bulkhead - I bought some stick-on cable clips.

Head for the fuse box at the front of the car. What you're looking for here is a fused ignition-on live feed. Using a test-light on the various fuses shows very little choice but basically I went for the blue fuses on the left of the first picture. Don't worry, the tank above my fuse box is a relocation due to the supercharger.

NOW DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.

RED WIRE
Don't do this part by using crap Scotchloks, do it properly.
Undo the earth cable at the top edge of the fuse box.
Undo the 4 captive centre bolts that run down the middle of the fuse box.
Unclip the bottom of the fuse box and tip the fuse platform toward the front of the car.
Pull out the green plastic grid at the rear and remove the green cover so you just have the plastic grid.

Pull the green plastic terminal retainers out. Photo on the left shows the top side of the back fuse box grid and photo on the right is the underside of the grid. The connectors won't fall out, you have to push a small probe in to the top to release the retaining tang and the connector slides out. I removed the terminal with the twin red wires going into it (just behind the pink in this shot)and then soldered the red wire of the raptor light onto this terminal.

Keep the solder as neat and low as possible as you may have to sand it down flush to allow the green clip to go back into the white plastic grid.
Plug the terminal back into the grid and reassemble it.

Plug the grid back in to the fuse box, tighten down the captive bolts and reattach the earth cable (see below.)
BLACK WIRE
I soldered a ring connector on this wire (see photo above). Originally I connected it to the earth terminal at the rear of the fuse box but the light didn't work. I shortened the earth wire and connected it direct to the chassis and it worked fine.
GREEN WIRE
Attach this to the green wire on any of the coils. I used the passenger side rear coil. You can use a Scotchlok or you can do it properly. I bought some waterproof connectors from an electrical supplier. The wire is quite short so that probably made it a little more tricky.
The first part involves stripping back the black covering tape to sever the green wire to the coil. Push on the waterproof seals if you're using them.

Solder one of the connector terminals on one end of the severed wire. Solder the other terminal onto the other end of the severed wire AND the green raptor wire.

Push the terminals into their holders and clip them together

Tidy up the routing using stick-on cable clips and try it out.

FAULT-FINDING
The main fault on units that don't work is usually the earth wire. If it doesn't work, ground it to the negative terminal of the battery and then find a better earth.