INTERIOR MODIFICATIONS

From MGW I ordered the following Triple Chrome items:

Interior temperature control dials
Radio knob (fits Shakers only)
"Eject" Power outlet plug
Cupholder insert
Parking brake handle
Door Pins
Chrome coolant cap
Chrome oil filler cap
Dipstick handle - The dipstick handle is a simple fit - you just cut off the top part of the stock yellow ring pull handle and clamp the new piece in place:

This is the interior shot with dials and EJECT plug fitted (left) and with the radio knob fitted (right):

These shots show the cupholder insert and parking brake handle fitted:

The red interior begged some enhancement and those enhancements came courtesy of http://www.redlinegoods.com ho supplied a red shifter boot, emergency brake boot and a stretch cover for the centre armrest: this is the centre armrest before and after

Here is the gear shifter boot. Fitting it is a bit of a fiddle but with a little patience, the end result is certainly worth the effort. Fitting the brake cover is also a royal pain and all I can tell you here is to NOT use 1/2" screws as suggested as they're too long - it's obvious but someone will drive the screw through the top if they don't think about it. I also found that gluing the cover in with a hot glue gun made the re-assembly easy and allowed you to position the cover correctly. I had to make two holes to cover the round pins at the nack end and for some reason, there were only 3 large slots on the inside edge where there should have been 8 smaller ones. Again, I cut my own slots and used the glue gun. In my view, there's a bit too much leather in this piece and it could be neater. Ignore the slightly orange color on the photos as this is the flash. It's a pretty fine match in daylight.

The final result:

This is the true colour in daylight.

PEDALS

Now as you can see, the footwell is looking a little plain. I had a look round for pedals and finally decided on these from Ultimate Pedals Online. They offer a choice of finishes and grommets. Yes, I like them without grommets but can't risk the shoe sliding off the pedals in the UK. I don't like the crosshead screw bolts provided either - sunken allen heads would be way better and less prone to slipping.

Install:

You'll need a small thin pilot drill bit, a 4.5mm drill bit for the gas pedal and a 5mm drill bit for the brake and clutch pedals with a 5.5mm drill bit in case the alignment isn't perfect. You'll also need an 8mm open/ring spanner, a crosshead screwdriver, a Stanley blade, sandpaper, masking tape, a pencil and a contortionist with 3 arms.

1.  Remove the pedal rubbers from the clutch and brake. You'll note they are both metal and cupped in the middle with an outer lip which is where the pedals will be secured using the supplied bolts, washers and nyloc nuts. Note the gas pedal is plastic and the throttle will be secured using two of the supplied self-tappers. Place paper or cloth under the pedals to catch all the crap.

2.  Clean the rubbery gunk off the clutch and brake pedals using the Stanley blade and sandpaper. Familiarise yourself with the pedals by feeling behind them so you know where you can and can't drill. Note particularly the brake pedal arm position as this should affect your choice. Now apply masking tape to all 3 pedals. I used a couple of layers to avoid drill slip.

3.  Offer up the pedals, one at a time, and align them with the top and bottom of the stock metal pedals. Position so the mounting holes you're going to use fall centrally on the outer pedal lip. Now, holding in place, use a pencil to draw through the circles. You may want to draw a few circles to see where best to secure them.

4.  I chose the two middle vertical holes for the gas pedal. Hold the pedal up to the stock pedal, making sure it doesn't come any lower than the stock pedal or you'll lose travel and it may get stuck on the carpet. Even drilling these holes in the plastic can be fiddly as the mounting points are in "dips" on the pedal. Drill carefully with the small pilot drill and only continue to the 4.5mm drill bit after test fitting the pedal for alignment using the supplied screws.

5.  The critical part is drilling and mounting on the two metal pedals. The instructions don't help as they show different pedals. I used the outer holes on the second row down. However, on the brake, this means the left bolt is very near the brake arm and it can be a world of pain getting the bolt secure so think about moving that one down a row to make it easier. They suggest a centre punch before drilling but both pedals move (duh!) so I used a thin pilot drill bit to very carefully drill the first hole slap bang in the centre of two of the drawn circles. From there, I progressively used bigger drill bits until I got to the 5mm which allows the supplied bolts to slide through easily, assuming they're in the right place.

6.  Test fit the pedals using two of the supplied bolts. If the alignment is slightly off (as mine was on the brake), use a 5.5mm drill bit to give you a little bit more latitude so the bolts slide through easily but make sure you don't go too near the edge of the lip. Now secure using the washers and nyloc nuts supplied with a crosshead screwdriver and 8mm spanner. If you use the left hole position I used, next to the brake arm, forget the washer as it won't fit and it will be hard enough just getting the bolt secure using your 3 armed contortionist.

That's it then. Here's the finished job.