91Camaro-RS-B4C’s 1991 Chevrolet Camaro

What the hell happened here. There were several years of build up information. Now it is all chopped up, and disorganized. Not sure if I should just delete, delete & start over.... lots of the information is gone for good. This was the only record of what was done, what happened & when it all took place.

Fastest 1/4 mile run stock was 13.979 sec @ 97.78 mph with the alternator unpluged. (Normally runs were between 14.3 & 14.7) Mods at this point (10/10/01) included Jet TPI air foil, K & N air filters, and Altered air boxes......... You can check out more Camaro time slips @ f-body.org www.f-body.org/timeslips/drillslip/cfm?er=13

Here is the 1991 B4C next to my first car. My First car was a 1982 Camaro Sport Coupe. I special ordered it to have full instrumentation and the F-41 suspension and limited slip rear end simular to the Z-28. To have a crush velour blue interior like a Berlinetta. And the factory ralley wheels. The only draw back was I could only afford insurance on the 2.8L V6 I'm saving the car for my oldest son. It doesn't get driven much due to a rear main leak. So at present it has around 78,000 miles is all original except for the dual exhaust muffler and a grant steering wheel. I also have a set of Cragar SS mags. unfortunatly I only have this one photo in the computer right now. Maybe someday I'll get the box out and put more of them online. Page 3 = a detailed step by step build up of my B4C.

These are a series of photos my youngest son (age 10) took of me @ Nebraska Motorplex October 29, 2005. I actually lost this run against the Ford Torino in these photos, but I beat him just a few minutes before these with a quicker reation to the light. I had been making passes non-stop because the track was getting ready to shut down for the day & I was trying to squeeze in just a little more fun before I had to leave. So the B4C was hot & slow. The 2 time slips looked like this: 1st run ( the one I WON) -------B4C--------Torino R/T-----.013-------.484 60'----2.035------2.061 330----5.893------5.805 1/8----9.091------8.913 MPH---76.83------79.44 1000--11.781-----11.521 1/4---14.186-----13.885 MPH--*97.04------96.71 LEFT WINS 2nd run ( the one I lost ) ------Torino-------B4C R/T-----.012-------.077 60'----2.134------2.059 330----5.917------5.879 1/8---78.82------76.73 1000--11.682-----11.771 1/4---14.056-----14.180 MPH--*98.24------96.78 LEFT WINS

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

Bought a "new" 2007 Chevy Silverado to tow my Camaro to the drag stip in Kansas City, MO.                                         Adding $400 a month car payments to my budget was not a smart thing to do.                                                        I got it the last day of January 2008. I've put on 3000 miles around town since then. The recomended break in towing is suppose to be done @ 50 mph for the first 500 miles. It was a hard 215 mile trip to KCIR @ 50 mph & the return 215 miles wasn't any easier.                                                                           Gas prices are also going to kill the idea of doing this on a regular bases. Plus with little to zero overtime I have no cash for improvements to my 1991 Camaro. So the performance was more of the same from last year.

November 18, 2006 Went to DYNOSPORT the dyno shop in Lincoln NE today. Was given the opportunity to make several base line passes. The best one produced... 239 RWHP with 345.1 max torque He ran a dynojet performace evaluation program on my best run and the torque numbers were a little lower: 239 hp with 324 max torque.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

These are a series of photos my youngest son (age 10) took of me @ Nebraska Motorplex October 29, 2005. I actually lost this run against the Ford Torino in these photos, but I beat him just a few minutes before these with a quicker reation to the light. I had been making passes non-stop because the track was getting ready to shut down for the day & I was trying to squeeze in just a little more fun before I had to leave. So the B4C was hot & slow. The 2 time slips looked like this: 1st run ( the one I WON) -------B4C--------Torino R/T-----.013-------.484 60'----2.035------2.061 330----5.893------5.805 1/8----9.091------8.913 MPH---76.83------79.44 1000--11.781-----11.521 1/4---14.186-----13.885 MPH--*97.04------96.71 LEFT WINS 2nd run ( the one I lost ) ------Torino-------B4C R/T-----.012-------.077 60'----2.134------2.059 330----5.917------5.879 1/8---78.82------76.73 1000--11.682-----11.771 1/4---14.056-----14.180 MPH--*98.24------96.78 LEFT WINS

Bought a "new" 2007 Chevy Silverado to tow my Camaro to the drag stip in Kansas City, MO.                                         Adding $400 a month car payments to my budget was not a smart thing to do.                                                        I got it the last day of January 2008. I've put on 3000 miles around town since then. The recomended break in towing is suppose to be done @ 50 mph for the first 500 miles. It was a hard 215 mile trip to KCIR @ 50 mph & the return 215 miles wasn't any easier.                                                                           Gas prices are also going to kill the idea of doing this on a regular bases. Plus with little to zero overtime I have no cash for improvements to my 1991 Camaro. So the performance was more of the same from last year.

Bought a "new" 2007 Chevy Silverado to tow my Camaro to the drag stip in Kansas City, MO.                                         Adding $400 a month car payments to my budget was not a smart thing to do.                                                        I got it the last day of January 2008. I've put on 3000 miles around town since then. The recomended break in towing is suppose to be done @ 50 mph for the first 500 miles. It was a hard 215 mile trip to KCIR @ 50 mph & the return 215 miles wasn't any easier.                                                                           Gas prices are also going to kill the idea of doing this on a regular bases. Plus with little to zero overtime I have no cash for improvements to my 1991 Camaro. So the performance was more of the same from last year.

These are a series of photos my youngest son (age 10) took of me @ Nebraska Motorplex October 29, 2005. I actually lost this run against the Ford Torino in these photos, but I beat him just a few minutes before these with a quicker reation to the light. I had been making passes non-stop because the track was getting ready to shut down for the day & I was trying to squeeze in just a little more fun before I had to leave. So the B4C was hot & slow. The 2 time slips looked like this: 1st run ( the one I WON) -------B4C--------Torino R/T-----.013-------.484 60'----2.035------2.061 330----5.893------5.805 1/8----9.091------8.913 MPH---76.83------79.44 1000--11.781-----11.521 1/4---14.186-----13.885 MPH--*97.04------96.71 LEFT WINS 2nd run ( the one I lost ) ------Torino-------B4C R/T-----.012-------.077 60'----2.134------2.059 330----5.917------5.879 1/8---78.82------76.73 1000--11.682-----11.771 1/4---14.056-----14.180 MPH--*98.24------96.78 LEFT WINS

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.

HOW I BUILT MY HALFASS RAM (COLD) AIR BOXES For $10 to $30 & a little time. Not being good with computers. This was the only place I thought I could put this so other 3rd generation owners from ThirdGen.Org could easily access it. I also don't own a camera. My wife usually take photos for me. But I don't know how long it will take to talk her into some pictures and I didn't want to wait. Some snap shots were added 5/7/08 >>>>>> This step by step should be read knowing that I'm also not mechanically inclined. I don't own many tools. And I don't possess the knowledge on how to use them very well. You also may have to use the expand feature on the drawings in order to see the detail better. That said here goes nothing.... I made my cold air boxes out of A flat sheet of steel ducting. It was called a 16� single joist pan. It actually measures 16 1/2 � by 30 1/2 �. Each sheet is $4.99 It came with a female end seam already made. I got 3 of them @ Menards (local hardware store) One to practice making & fitting. and the other 2 as finished products. Total so far 3 x $4.99 = $15 My goal was to have something similar to hawks 3rd generation's Ram Air boxes. >Hawks 3rd Genderation Ram Air Boxes My 1991 Camaro RS-B4C doesn't have fog lights, so my secondary goal was to only scavenge about half the air going toward the radiator from each side of the grill. I used a Black & Decker workmate table as a vice. I had to buy sheet metal scissors ( the pair cost me $12) New Total $15 $12 = $27 tax NEXT: I measured the sheet metal for 10 inches. Cutting it down to a 10" x 30 1/2" piece. (see figure 1 & 1a ) Then I measured from the seam & put down lines @ 6 3/8 intervals. 6 3/8 12 3/4 19 1/8 25 1/2 25 3/4 The last line added a 1/4" to make the final seam fit together. (see Figure 1c ) I put the metal in the workmate and folded it over on the lines I had made. After each fold I took a rubber mallet & a hammer & went over each fold one at a time as I made it. I was trying to give it a nice crisp fold. Using the B&D workmate allowed the metal to wrap around while I made each fold. You end up with a loose box 6 3/8 square. and 10" long. Then you can cut off the excess at the 1/4" line ( the last line you made) (see Figure 2) I test fitted mine to the bottom of the plastic air boxes. And found there were some plastic molding obstructing a tight fit. I made some slits in the top of the new steel boxes. 2 on one side & 1 on the opposite. (see Figure 2a ) To match the molded plastic so that they mated up real snug. I has some small nuts/bolts & washers lying around the garage. So I drilled 8 holes. ( one on each side of each gutted air box & new steel box combination ) I use the nuts/ bolts to secure the cut off air boxes to the new sheet metal. The hard part comes in fitting them in. I used my pocket knife to cut a large square holes in the rubber membrane that is between the air boxes and the air inlets from the grill. I think this membrane is described in the step by step on the ThirdGen.Org web site @ TGO ram air There is a separate little plastic/hard rubber duct from behind the grill leading to the radiator. When I cut the rubber membrane I was careful not to cut this duct. Here is where photos would probably be better then words. I took the steel boxes I just made. And designated a front side & a back side. The back will remain 10� long. The front I measure down from the top 5 1/2 � and cut the rest off. (see Figure 3 ) Next I cut in from the front toward the back 2 1/2 �. (see Figure 3a ) Then I cut down from that point 1 1/2 �. ( Let call this point A) (see Figure 3b ) From there I made a slight angular cut toward the bottom. Next I drew 2 lines. One from point A to about 1 1/8 � from the top of the metal box. (Call this B ) The other line was from point A straight toward the back side (Call this C ) (see Figure 4) I made matching lines on both sides of each box. Then I made a cut from point A to point B. Then I cut from point A to point C. I bent the backside which is 10�. I bent it along the 1 1/8 inch point at the top. This was to get the back side angled away from the cross support in front of the radiator. Next I bent the back side again along point C. this was to make a scoop to meet up with the radiator ducting. ( Remember I only wanted to scavenge part of the air.) So I bent mine to fit the top half of the air ducting. After I figured out what would work for me I drilled another Hole in the side of each of the new steel boxes & put in a washer/bolt & screw to hold each side in it�s shape. ( If you have a rivet gun & know how to use it this might be easier) (see Figure 5 ) finish & fit photos.... Hope this helps or at least gives someone a better idea on how to build a simular air box.