ENGINE REMOVAL (8/10/07)
Stupid me, I forgot to take a picture of the engine before
I started rippin and tearin. Well in this shot all the major
accessories and smog equiptment are off of the engine,
but there is still plenty of work to be done.
This is the answer to the question, "how are you feeling",
after working under the car for an hour.
We have liftoff !!!! Life lesson learned though, dont
pull the motor and trans together unless you have a
really tall hoist.
Yeah I know, gross isnt it.
End of Day 1
Assesment time!
I see pavement !!
nice artsy photo
The new engine courtesy of Phoenix Engine Rebuilders
Heres the short list of upgrades:
350CI Chevy small block
Competition Cam "Street Performance"
Edlebrock "Performer" Intake with High polish
Edlebrock " 600cfm "Performer" carb with high polish
MSD "Street Fire" HEI Ignition
AC Delco plugs 45 degree gap
8.5mm MSD ignition wires
Here's the long list of the parts for the
Power2® engine from Phoenix Engine Rebuilders:
Power 2 PER or SP cam kit
Power 2 hydraulic lifters
Power 2 spring set, heavy duty (900,series sets)
Polished intake included
New steel intake valves
New heavy duty steel exhaust valves
Premium positive valve seals, polyacrylate
Heavy duty roller timing chain
Controlled internal oil system (a PER exclusive!)
Heavy duty, high volume Melling oil pump
Heavy duty steel collar oil shaft
Heavy duty oil pickup screen
High quality American made SP or SL pistons
PER® High Performance plasma SP molly rings
Brass freeze plug kit
High quality rear main seal double lip polyacrylate
PermaTorque heavy duty gaskets and gasket set
Main bearings, Tri metal, high quality
Rod bearings, Tri metal, high quality
New rod nuts installed
Cam bearings, high quality 360 Set
POWER 2® ENGINE MACHINE LABOR includes:
PER 4-angle® valve job
Mill-matching surfaced heads
Heavy duty thick wall valve guides
Valve guides custom cut for posi-seals
Jet vat block and magnifluxing
Remove and replace all freeze plugs
Remove and replace gallery plugs
Remove and replace cam bearings
Custom centerline boring of block (true 90 degree V8 centerline)
Power hone to fit pistons and rings
Custom crank micro polish adius oil holes
Rods pressed off, then heat fitted
Rods checked for alignment
Street balancing
I can see your feet !
Every job needs a supervisor
BG throttle body cleaner is quite universeral
Painted firewall with Duplicolor Truck Bed Liner...great stuff
I filled small holes with bondo and cleaned off any rust
Sprayed the liner on the cross member and suspension
Fender liners were coated in POR with a base coat and this
picture shows me resanding to smooth out imperfections for
a top coat to go on later.
I polished the brake lines and gave the Booster a hit of POR
POR is some messy stuff
Misc pieces painted in enamal black
The 700r4 transmission was fully rebuilt and had a shift kit
put in it, I cleaned it and painted it with enamal. Total cost
was under $700 dollars for everything.
The truck bed liner even coats plastic to make it look like new
Its nice to see a little before and after to know just how
much work you've acomplished.
My make shift paint booth
This important for anyone doing a 305-350 swap.
The FLYWHEELS ARE DIFFERENT !! The 350 is much
larger and will require you to get a different starter.
This was my final bolt check before I started to go together.
Im glad I did... the oil pan was barely on.
Finally the engine bay is all cleaned up.
IMPORTANT !! Make sure that your torque converter is all
the way in before installing the engine. Sounds silly but I
figured it out the hard way. My converter fell in three times
as I spun it and it still wasnt in all the way once the engine
was put it. It fell in another inch after I fought it.
Yes...
I know there not headers...
Yes...
I know I shouldnt be able to pass inspection with the air
pipes taken off. I got it all under control.
The Edlebrock Carb that came with the engine (turning out to
be a pain in the ass) and the shift kit that the Trans shop put
in the tranny.
It says MSD on the box, but I guess it was their economy
one. I didn't know that till I got it.
Im trying to do as little damage as possible.
I've been working on this about 85% by myself. Trying
to install the engine alone, wasnt going so hot though.
My engine crane is this many inches to short. I chocked it
with wood and took th weight off the crane untill I could
come back with some help.
I got it in later no problem.
Its really starting to shine with the carb on it now.
My Grandfather making my fuel line set up...
Im not happy with how it came out...
Arguments were plenty that night.
Starting on the wiring.
Well I decided to move onto installing the accessories.
They're not as clean as I'd like them to be but I just wont
open the hood for nit pickers.
I really like my new valve covers.. I know they're not like the
ones I photoshoped on my art page, but these came to my
attention later. I'm thinking of getting them powdercoated
black and doing some pinstriping on them. I'm not sure how
it will hold up to the heat though.
The distributor is the only thing under the hood with color,
just the way I wanted it.
For anyone who wants a oil pump prime tool, this is how I
made mine.
1) I removed the cap and rotor to start.
2) At the bottom is the cam gear, to remove that take a
small punch and remove the roll pin.
3) Next I removed the reluctor wheel that the rotor attaches
to by turning the distibutor upside down and hammering it
off (its pressed on)
4) Once thats off you will have to put it in a vise and take a
punch to the bushing. It takes some time, but once the
bushing is off, your drill will accept the shaft and...
WALA !
Radiator's in
Tons of room. I could still install electric fans if I was obsessed
with keeping this thing cool.
This is my homemade throttle linkage. Im pissed because I
basically found what I made at Advance Auto a week later.
What I had to do was convert a hole that was 5/8, to about a
1/4 to make my throttle cable work.
(From left to right)
- a rubber bushing to take up the gap
- a washer to prevent the bolt from going through
- throttle bracket
- custom drilled washer <1/4
- throttle cable end
- thredded sleeve with cotter key hole
- cotter key.
In case anyone needs a reference on how belts are
routed on a 350 with A/C.
Plug wires and some more hoses are now on.
That shroud looks reallllll good.
Almost ready to fire for the first time.
Assesing my mess.....
Hoses routed, straps on... I do believe were ready to fire.
At 8:30 pm on 9/28/07 my engine ran and it ran well. Im as
shocked as you are haha. I had HUGE AMOUNTS OF
SMOKE due to two reasons. The first is that when I was
priming the oil pump I did it with the valve covers off so that
I could see that every rocker was suppllied oil and it did
spill over a little. Reason two POR IS NOT MEANT FOR
MANIFOLDS and the glaze burned off with emense
amounts of smoke. I thought I had an oil leak at first. The
manifolds still look good, there just a flat rough black.
I went by the engine rebuilders specifications break in
procedure and it was as follows:
1) First start up done with straight 30w oil
2) Leave distibutor loose to adjust timing shortly after start
3) With all fluids full, start the engine and let run at 1200rpm
for a half hour or untill thermostat opens
4) Let engine cool fully.
5) Tighten cylinder heads, intake, and rocker arms back to
factory specifications.
6) One back together, Drive the car at unconstant speeds
around 30mph for the first 500 miles. Drive normally
without taking the car on the highway.
7) At 500 miles drain the oil and change the filter to remove
all metal and contamanites. ( I installed magnets that I
bought from Radio Shack on the oil filter, 2 on the oil pan,
and 2 on the transmission pan )
This is my custom made Kickdown cable and
Crusie Control cable bracket. Nothing I bought
aftermarket worked. Its pretty simple really. Its 1 1/2 inch
wide by 1/8 inch thick aluminum flat stock. Got it at Lowes
for $8. I measured and cut sections and also used my grind
wheel to chamfer and smooth down the edges. From there
I used the brackets from one of the kits that I bought at
NAPA and drilled holes accordingly. Evertyhing lines up
sweet and the hardest part of this project was finding
screws and nuts small enough so that it wouldnt stick out.
I decided at the last second to black out my header panel.
I dont know why but my car is creepy looking without
headlights in it. Almost like it has no eyes.
A body man I am not... I got everything close but couldnt
budge the header any more to get it perfect.
The first shot with the hood back on.
One last look at the shinyness
All buttoned up
INDEX
PAGE (1) OVERVIEW
PAGE (2) PHOTO SHOOTS
PAGE (3) ENGINE INSTALL
PAGE (4) SPECIFICATIONS
PAGE (5) FUTURE MODS
PAGE (6) MY ART WORK
PAGE (7) MISC
