Putting it back together
I would have to say that the people on ROP were extremely helpful in getting this done correctly. The first thing was to get the block and wash it with soap and water and a lot of brushes to get in all the passages. At this point the next step would be to check all the clearances, but first I didn't have the necessary tools, and second people that have dealt with Jeff said all his machining was perfect. First step is to get the crank in. Now Olds have this bogus rope seal which many people use successfully. It just so happens that the Ford 460 seal will work perfectly and this is what I used.
Ford 460 seal
I used carb cleaner to clean all parts before assembly. Put the lower half of the Ford 460 seal into the block. Make sure that there are no burrs on the knurling where the seal will ride. I used emery cloth and got it nice and smooth. The knurling will not cuase leaks.Put each bearing shell in the block and make sure all the shells are flush with the block.Use plenty of assy lube, and coat the shells. Now carefully lower the crank into the lower shells. Put plenty of assy lube on the crank and spin it a couple of times to get everything lubed. Put the top bearing shells into the caps making sure the tangs fit good and the shell is flush with the main caps. Lube the shells and place each main cap in the correct location(You did mark them right?) Use the required ARP lube and coat the threads, washers and nuts for the main studs. Now is time to set the crank thrust.
Torque mains 1, 2, 4 & 5 to about 40 ft. lbs. or so.
Torque the number 3 main to 20 ft. lbs.
Get a large rubber mallet and smack the crank forward and then backward hard. Spin the crank between smacks.
Torque the number 3 main to 40 ft. lbs. and repeat the process and then torque to 60 and repeat again and finally use your final torque setting.
The crank should spin freely with little effort.
Now measure your clearance. Preferably with a dial indicator. You can use a small prybar or screwdriver to carefully move the crank if necessary. Lightly pry the crank in either direction and zero your dial indicator, then lightly pry in the opposite direction and read the dial indicator. This is your clearance.
Once the crank is in and torqued, repeat the torquing process 5 times. This is what ARP recommended to clean up the threads.Here is a quote from there site
" 1. The friction factor changes from one application to the next. That is, the friction is at its highest value when the fastener is first tightened. Each additional time the fastener is torqued and loosened, this value gets smaller. Eventually the friction levels out and becomes constant for all following repetitions. Therefore, new fasteners should be tightened and loosened through several cycles before applying final torque. The number of times depends on the lubricant. For all situations where ARP lubricants are used, five cycles are required before final torquing."
At this point the crank should move with very little effort. Mine was very easy to spin. If not please do not continue.
Now its on to the pistons. Remember that since we opened up the bore .0035" from what TRW recommends, the rings that came with the Summit kit are no good. Luckily Summit delivers in 2 days so I got file to fit rings. Make sure you get the ring grinder also.Put the #1 ring into the #1 bore and push it down a few inches with a piston. Measure the gap, and file the ring to get the correct gap of .020". This will take a while so crack a few beers. Repeat for the second ring. Once complete, install the rings onto the piston in there respective places. Put each connecting rod in a vise to hold it with blocks of wood protecting it. Use your ring expander to get the rings on. Repeat for all 8 pistons. Once the are done it is time to put them in the block. I used a bowl of fresh 30 weight to lube the pistons up before insertion. Use your ring compressor, and tighten then dip in the oil. Put two pices of 3/8 fule line about 6 inches long over the rod bolts so you don't knick the crank. Put the #1 piston in the #1 cylinder and just tap the top of the piston and it should go into the bore. Pull on the rod, and when it gets close to the crank, put the top rod bearing shell onto the rod. lube really well with the assy lube, and pull onto crank. Put the othe shell onto the rod cap, lube well and put the rod cap on. Use the ARP lube on the threads,washer, and nut and tighten. Repeat for #2 cylinder. Work your way down until all are done.