RECOMMENDED TOOLS FOR HEADER INSTALL

ALSO: COMMENTS/IMPRESSIONS are at the bottom of this page.

See previous page for CONCERNS/PROBLEMS ADDRESSED DURING INSTALL.

In no way is this the perfect list. In no way is this every tool we used. Make do with what you can. Or just have someone else do it. (Just remember that the money you pay somebody else to do it is money you could put towards anything else.) I included equipment also.

* = might not need but we used anyway

safety glasses
mechanics gloves
creeper* (not needed if you use a lift)
3/8" ratchet
3/8" broken neck ratchet
metric wobble sockets
wobble extension
metric crow feet set*
3/8" extension (a few inches long)
3/8" metric deep sockets (might want to use some compatible with an impact wrench)
med crescent wrench*
7/8" large combination wrench
7/8" stubby combination wrench
air supply*
1/2" impact wrench*
1/2" air tool sockets-metric*
3/8" impact wrench*
3/8" air ratchet*
3/8" torque wrench for up to 24 ft lbs
MIG/TIG welder (if you weld your own o2 bungs)
flashlight
trim panel removal tool (for all the snaps at various points)
soldering iron (only if extending o2 wires)
rosen core solder
22 gauge wire (4 colors; used for extending o2 wires)
heat shrink tubing or electrical tape
wire loom (get the non-spiral type cause it's not as hard to wrap around 10 ft of wire)
assorted zip ties
dremel with sanding drums*
jack and jack stands or car lift
metric taps and dies*
sawzall*
WD-40
anti-seize compound for nuts and bolts

COMMENTS

This is definitely a 2-man job.

We used jack stands at the front of the car, but a lift would have been nice. You just would have been going up and down on the lift quite a bit.

It's easiest to remove the stock headers in pieces. Go ahead and disconnect the y-pipe and pre-cats.

If you're extending the wires on the rear o2 sensors solder them together. Use Heat shrink tubing around the new joints. Loom the wires. Zip tie them to the fuel lines.

I was surprised that I had to extend the pre-cat o2 sensors (the blue ones). I added a foot to each.

We did have to remove the intake manifold to gain better access for the rear header manifold. Be sure to cover your intake with clean rags or something similar so nothing falls into the block. This time would also be good for changing your spark plugs since everything is already apart.

I finally ran my EGT/Pyrometer temperature probe. I have it on the rear manifold just after the 3 pipes merge.

I wanted to replace one of the stock pre-cat o2 sensors with a wideband sensor. This would make it easier for me to tune the a/f ratios since I'm spraying. I just didn't buy a wideband o2 kit in time. I was thinking PLX or Innovative Motorsports.

The directions from Cattman said that for the front bank removal of the radiator might be needed. For the '02 and '03 it's not necessary. Just lift the fan shroud while snaking the header manifold up from the bottom.

There are extra holes in the block and gaskets where the headers mount. I don't remember if they were used for the heat shields, but I'm pretty sure that's just because the VQ is a block in many Nissan applications. My headers only bolt up with six studs/nuts, like stock, and they work fine.

I'm very surprised at fitment. We did have the issue with the front engine mount. We also had a few scares, but with a little elbow grease and four hands, things worked. No real fitment trouble was seen.

I do hear a rattle when starting out. However, I know it's coming from an o2 sensor that we accidentally mounted in a position that makes it touch the floor pan.

The heat shields don't go back on the manifolds. We'll see how well that works out.

On start-up it sounded like we had some leaks. But after inspection and warming up all that went away. Possibly joint expansion and all the gaskets seating???

The HPC coating on the headers will heat up on start-up and give off a little smoke. You'll have some stank for a couple days too, but it'll be the stank of something beautiful.

I'm running with stock cat-back. The sound from the headers is wonderful! It is not at all bees-in-a-can. The sound is throaty from start to the midrange, but is very subtle thereafter. I can hear a little droaning when downshifting. It does "pop" once in a while. But from the driver's seat I can hear a little of that 350Z and G35 hum.

The sound is in no way intrusive cruising at highway speeds. I was worried about it droaning or buzzing up in the rpm range, but I hear none of that. You can easily forget it's there. Now all I need is a dyno.

I like it! Job well done Cattman! Thank you for your support of the Maxima community and that you are readily available.