Page 1: How to remove the doors
Page 2: How to sound deaden the doors
Page 3: How to seal the doors

The next step is to seal the large access holes in the outer skin. Sealing the access hole will help create a more stable environment for the mids to play in. Not exactly a sealed door, but every bit helps. The more I make this door like an enclosure, the better the results from the speakers will be. This next step is an incredible way to cover the access holes. I came up with this idea a while ago but have only been able to do it now.

First I cut a layer of Second Skin Overkill slightly smaller than a piece of Damplifier that fits nicely over the larger access hole in the outer skin of the door. As it is in this pic, it is sitting on top of the Damplifier to show the size difference.
This pic show each of the separate pieces, Damplifier and Overkill sprayed with a thin layer of 3M Super 90 Spray glue. They are sitting for about 90 seconds untouched to allow the gases from the glue to escape.
I allowed each side to sit for 90 seconds after which I applied each of the tacky sides together with some pressure.
Next I peeled off the paper release liner from the Damplifier and stuck the sheet in the door. Here all you can see is the sticky, butyl adhesive side of the Damplifier showing. The Overkill on the inside of the door will help absorb echoes and resonance from the RE XXX components. The less noise bouncing around in this door, the better the mids will sound. There is lots of synergy happening with this combination of materials.
Once fully inserted I positioned the Damplifier in the right place.
This is a picture of the adhesive side of Damplifier showing through the access hole. I had to stick my arm in the other hole to seal the Damplifier from behind. This is kind of tricky, but can be done. I made sure to apply liberal amounts of pressure to the edges where the Damplifier meets the hole to create a good seal
Here is another piece of Second Skin Overkill, cut to the shape of the access hole. I made sure to cut it slightly thinner than the actual hole. You will see why in a minute.
Here the Overkill is applied to the sticky butyl side of the Damplifier. Some pressure was applied from the front and back side of the mat to ensure a solid connection. This piece of Overkill will help reduce noise that would normally be transmitted through the access hole.
Here I am applying an additional layer of Damplifier on top of the foam. This is why I left some space around the Overkill. So that the sticky side of this layer of Damplifier would connect with the sticky side of the back layer of Damplifier, creating a very strong bond.
Here you can see how I pressed the Damplifier in to the edges of the access hole where the other layer of Damplifier is.
An additional layer of Damplifier goes on top of the first for an even better job.
Shot of the entire door
Time for more Spectrum Sludge!
I smeared this on at about 4 mm thick. This is definitely way too much, but who cares. 1 mm would be fine for most applications.
Shot of the entire door while still wet.
Shot of the door dried. Sludge only takes about 30 minutes to skin over.

Here is a shot of the next hole I will seal. This one is going to be a little more tricky since I can not stick my arm in to another access hole to help seal it from behind. Should be fun...
Making sure the Damplifier Pro is going to fit. This is my template piece.
This is another piece of Damplifier Pro with a layer or Second Skin Overkill stuck to it. The same technique was used as the other access hole. 3M Super 90 spray adhesive on both parts, Wait 90 seconds and apply.
Once there was a permanent bond I cut the piece in half.
Peeling back the release liner exposes the butyl adhesive.
Placing the Damplifier Pro in to the access hole.
This is a small piece of Sprinkler hose I cut to secure around the door locking rod. I slit it down the middle and wrapped it around the rod to protect the rod from the Damplifier Pro. The rod needs to move freely to open and lock the door.
This shot shows the first piece of Second Skin Damplifier Pro in place along with the small tubing.
The second sheet of mat was inserted.
In this pic you can see how I left a small opening on the left hand side. I did this so I can stick my hand in still and apply pressure from the back side of the mat.
Here you can see the first layer of Damplifier Pro applied to the adhesive side of our first layer. I chose not to sandwich the Overkill between the sheets on this hole. Mainly because it is already difficult to dampen properly, I wanted as much adhesion between sheets as possible. I will use overkill on top of the mat in a few more shots.
A few more pieces over the top of the first layer to help seal it up.
In this shot I made a template of Overkill to apply to the top of the Damplifier Pro
Overkill with a layer of 3M Super 90 spray adhesive on it. I also sprayed the Damplifier Pro but did not take a picture. Both pieces were set aside for 90 seconds to tack up and release gases.
Overkill securely glued in to place.
Another layer of Mat goes on top of the Overkill and helps seal the access hole.
Here you can see the mat firmly in place. all the edges are secure.
Time for more Spectrum Sludge. I love this stuff!
Smeeeeeaarr.....
Shot of the access hole fully covered in Spectrum Sludge. There is about 3 or 4 mm's on the mat edges which was allowed to dry. I then went back and added another handful of Spectrum Sludge to the inside area to bulk up the more fragile area or the project.
Here are some other smaller holes that I covered with a layer of Damplifier Pro. I also added a handful of Spectrum Sludge on top of these holes to seal and secure them.
Here you can see the door while still wet
30 minutes later and the Spectrum Sludge has skinned over. Sludge takes about 24 hours per 1mm layer to cure. it can take 7-10 days before full sound deadening results are achieved.

Page 1: How to remove the doors
Page 2: How to sound deaden the doors
Page 3: How to seal the doors