Page 1: How to remove the doors
Page 2: How to sound deaden the doors
Page 3: How to seal the doors
This is my first stage of sound deadening my 2004 Toyota Tacoma with Second Skin products.
Each of these doors is getting the following:
16 sq feet Damplifier Pro
8 sq feet Damplifier
2/3 gallons Spectrum
1/2 gallons Spectrum Sludge
9 sq feet Overkill
9 sq feet Rattle Pad
This is by far way more than most people will ever need to do to their car doors. I tend to go balls out though.
Enjoy!
Here is a pic of the raw door.
Once the upholstery is off you can remove the plastic moisture barrier. Once the doors are deadenend this will not be needed.
Once the plastic door shell is removed and plastic moisture barrier is gone, I can access the inner skin of the door.
here you can see a layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro on the inner skin of the door. This will get 2 layers with a 3rd layer directly behind the speaker.
Placing a layer on the inner skin
Here is a closer shot of the inner skin with several layers of Second Skin Damplifier Pro on it.
This shot shows the inner skin of the door with a nice thick layer of Second Skin Spectrum, a liquid noise and vibration damper. It starts out blue and once it is dry turns black total thickness on the inner skin is about 2 mm, with an extra mm behind the speaker. This product can be sprayed or painted on with a brush, trowel or roller. I used a brush. This took about 3 layers to get to 2mm
Closer shot of the inner skin with Second Skin Spectrum. Spectrum is designed to adhere to metal so the foil backing of Damplifier is perfect for it
Inner skin with Spectrum after an hour to dry. This is the final color of the polymer. Black
This is the next product to go in the doors. Second Skin Overkill. Overkill is a closed cell neoprene sponge used to absorb airborne sound waves. Very similar to wet suit materials (without the addition of nylon). When used in the doors it will absorb the road noise frequencies that penetrate the Damplifier Pro and Spectrum. It will also help reduce the echoes from the midbass speakers in the door cavity to a minimum. This will help create a more stable environment for the speakers to perform in.
First I sprayed 3m Super 90 adhesive on the inner door skin, then a layer of glue on the foam. After 90 seconds I stuck the 2 sticky sides together. This Tacking up process is necessary. Once the glue is exposed to air, it releases gases, if you don�t allow both sides to sit, the gases will be release when the foam is on the panel an the foam will bubble up.
Here is the inner skin with a full layer of Second Skin Overkill
Next I started to spray the doors with Spectrum. I chose to spray it on the outer skins just to show how it is done. whether it is sprayed or painted on the results will be the same as long as the thickness is correct. At least 1mm, as much as 4mm.
More Spectrum being sprayed on.
Spectrum is now at about 1mm on each of the doors. Once I am done it will be about 2 or 3mm thick
3 mm of Second Skin Spectrum dried
This is the 1 gallon bucket that Second Skin Spectrum Sludge comes in.
I decided to spread Sludge on with my hand. So, on goes the latex glove...
...And on goes the Spectrum Sludge.. about 3 mm worth everywhere you see here
Here is a bunch of Sludge around the are where the RE Audio XXX components will go
Another handful of Sludge
Applying it to the back of the outer skin of the door
Another shot of Sludge. About 5 mm worth
Here is a shot of the door covered with dried (but not cured) Sludge. At this point the outer door skin has between 3 mm and maybe 6 mm of Acrylic polymer on it.
Page 1: How to remove the doors
Page 2: How to sound deaden the doors
Page 3: How to seal the doors
