Page 1-Background Information (1 Pic)
Page 2-Updates (0 Pics)
Page 3-Starting Pics (7 Pics)
Page 4-Motor/Turbo Pics (32 Pics)
Page 5-Interior/Exterior Pics (11 Pics)
Page 6-Misc. Pics (8 Pics)

-And So It Began-
Welcome to my madness. Here is where I outline and try to keep you updated on the progress of my project. I am transforming a mild-mannered 14yr old pick-up into what I *hope* will be quite a sleeper!

Details include:

Swapping out the old 2.0l SOHC engine (aprox. 75HP,) carburated, with over 130,000 miles for a 2.0l DOHC engine with zero miles and fuel injection:

The engine is soured from a 1999 Kia Sportage with less that 30,000 miles on it. The stock engine in the truck is from the F-block family of Mazda engines. This block is also used in the Mazda MX-6 and some 626 models as well as the Ford Probe. Some of these engines are 2.0l and some are 2.2l, as used in the turbo applications. All of these are SOHC. A DOHC version of the F-block was available in the AWD 626 sold in England, Japan, and Australia; it is refered to as the FE3, and never came to the U.S.. I found out about this engine from ProbeTalk.com and SoloMiata.com. (see links)

There had been allot of discussion about putting the DOHC head on a SOHC engine, swapping an J-spec FE3 and the like. That�s how I discovered the 'de-tuned" version of the FE3 was sold to KIA by Mazda for use in the KIA Sportage. This engine is rated at about 130HP. The KIA is set up for RWD application(s) while the Mazda motor is set up for FWD application(s). The engine I purchased is marked with many FE marks (as shown on the engine pic page) The engine was purchased from a totaled 1999 Kia Sportage with less than 30,000 miles and an AT tranny.

I stripped most of the unneeded accys off and took it to Kammer and Kammer in Huber Heights, Ohio. There they stripped the engine down completely, cleaned it, balanced the rotating assy and boxed it all up for me to then drive to Sinden Racing Services in Indianapolis, Indiana for cryogenic tempering. This form of tempering treats the entire metal, rather than just surfaces as in shot peening. Also, cryo-tempering withstands additional machine work. I brought the tempered long block back to Kammer and Kammer for reassembly. During all this I kept the stock internals: cast iron crank, cast iron connecting rods, cast aluminum pistons, but replaced the piston rings and all engine seals and bearings. This leaves my compression at the stock 9.2:1. The FE3 engine comes stock with oil squirters to cool the pistons which will come in handy when combating detonation.

I purchased an engine painting kit from POR-15; Ford red. The color, however was more lipstick magenta. :-( I called POR-15 and they told me there had been some formula problems. I painted the block and the oil pan in red since I was already purchasing lots of other POR-15 products, and my accent color for this project is red. This is one of the very few things I'm doing that don't have a direct impact on performance...this is *VERY* much a function-over-form exercise!

Turbocharging the engine.
I purchased a Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo from High Performance Online. I also acquired a Tiel Wastegate and a TurboXS BOV that will be vented back into the intake post-filter, pre-turbo(eventually). I will have to custom-fabricate an exhaust manifold to use since I'm very possibly the first person to turbocharge this engine in the U.S.. (NOTE: As it turns out, I'm not! Check out the links)

I intend to use iron weld el's to make a "log" manifold; the kind very similar to those used on Miatas. I can't use one of the Miata manifolds since nothing matches up.(Randy of SoloMiata says a gasket match can be performed to make one of those fit, FYI) The Miata uses the B-series block.

I purchased a new intercooler that would normally be used in a 2000 Ford F-350 turbo diesel. This intercooler is *WAY* big! I will probably loose more than the standard 1psi over the intercooler. I expect 1.5-2psi lost. I should also experience turbo lag due to the large internal volume in between my throttle and my turbo. My hope is that the turbo lag will give my rear tires a moment to quit spinning and grab the pavement before boost kicks in! The loss in boost over the intercooler I'm using as a sort of engine protection. I intend to run only about 5-7psi on the street and 7-10psi at the track so I'm not mondo-boosting it like some of the import tuners to begin with. My initial set-up will have plenty of *safeguards* helping me protect the engine until I can fine-tune the whole system, one item at a time.

Replacing the stock carburetor/ECU with fuel injection/WOLF3D ECU.
I purchased a WOLF3D from Wolf to control all aspects of engine management. I choose this system mainly for the external memory card function. I can store my fuel curves in an external memory card and swap tunes as easily as turning the truck off, swapping cards, and tuning the truck back on! I can also connect the cards to my PC and work on my curves that way too. Since this is a street/strip truck project, being able to quickly switch between two tunes will be a great help! The ECU comes complete with wiring harness and all sensors. I will be using a Crank Angle Sensor from MSD to send the engine position info to the ECU.

I will also be purchasing new injectors from RC Engineering. The stock KIA motor comes with 130cc/min injectors. I will be buying 440cc/min injectors. I will also be buying the Aeromotive rising rate FPR. I've already purchased the Aeromotive fuel pump and fuel filter I will be using to feed the engine. I purchased stainless steel hard line and a 16gal. fuel cell from Summit Racing (as well as most of my misc. parts). I will fab a bracket to install the fuel cell and pump/filter in the back of the bed where the old spare tire bracket currently is. Hopefully, this additional weight shift to behind the axle will help with my forecasted traction problems.

Misc. additional modifications.
I have already lowered the truck 2" using Chassis Tech front spindles and rear leaf springs. Just lowering the truck this amount really made a big improvement in the handling characteristics. I also purchased 16" American Racing Wagon Wheels (think NASCAR) and W rated low profile tires. These wheels air heavy, but weight reduction isn't an issue yet. They were also only $50/ea., freeing up extra $$ for really good rubber! I *wanted* to use late-model 5-spoke RX-7 wheels but my truck is a 6-lug and those are 5-lug. The wheel adapters alone would have cost me over $600!!!

ETC
Before I got *really* into this project I had to almost completely replace the brakes. The stock replacement front rotors that I got from Spradlin Automotive were Brembo's! I also got my rear drums from them but the packaging gave no indication as to weather or not they were also Brembo. I purchased "loaded" calipers from NAPA as well as the rear pads for the drums. I had Goodrich custom fab a stainless steel brake line set for my application. These will be reinforced with the stainless steel hard line I will be replacing all the stock steel lines with.

I have replaced the stock bench seat with bucket seats from a 1986 RX-7. They were $25/ea. at the junk yard, in great shape, and really match the gray interior; and they feel great too! I have purchased a bunch of AutoMeter gauges from Summit for monitoring engine vitals. I'm going to try to keep placement of these as stock as possible; or at least below eye sight! (competitor's eye sight that is!) The overall feel I'm going for is sleeper, remember.

When I got really into the project I discovered some cancer in the inner side of the frame; mostly under the cab itself. I have stripped as much of the old rust and scale and undercoating I could off the frame and have re-painted it with POR-15. This stuff looks great, and I guess I will find out if it works as great as they claim! The factory black paint job is relatively intact, but the pin stripes are really fading and need to come off. I have spent the last 10mos. trying various physical and chemical methods of removing them without damaging the paint, in order to avoid having to either primer or re-paint the whole truck. After all has been said and done, I have decided to just strip them off chemically/manually and paint the whole truck black primer. This will allow me to make body panel mods/repairs as needed and at least pave the way for a good paint job at some later date.

ETC-2
Did I miss anything? I can't recall at the moment. If I need to declare an "affiliation" it will be to the club/company I have to formed to give some sort of validation to this project: OddBallRacing. My tech support will be coming in the form of my brothers, Russ and Mick, as well as the staff of Ward Motorsports.

The goal? Spend less than $10,000 total to go 1/4 mile in less than 14sec. I must give at least a little motivation to the Hot Rod 12/20 club. Those cars that can do a 12sec 1/4 mile and still get 20mpg. Motivation also comes as an outcry against the thousands and thousands of bolt-on, look pretty, 1,000lbs. of stereo equipment carrying, fart-tip having, red light revving mis-guided masses. I'm hoping this project will be an exercise in the exact opposite of that!