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Engine and Performance Modifications:
- A cars engine will only work as well as the parts will allow. This means that each individual part in the system plays a big role. Where you might not feel big gains from one piece, it will help the next be that much better.
---- K&N Cold Air Intake ----
Personal Rating: * * * * *
My Review:
The first thing was to get rid of the stock restrictive intake. So, i ripped that thing out and got a fresh K&N Intake up under the hood. It now sounds pretty good! Really no good gains, but feels a bit better up on the top end!
Installed on 10/23/05
---- MSD Ignition Coil ----
My Rating: * * *
My Review:
I began thinking about ignition and controlling spark. Reading into my NGC ECU's shortcomings, I decided the only way to control spark is to just upgrade the parts that are on it to increase performance. I bought the MSD ignition to begin the modifications for Fuel and spark to better control that then the stock coil pack. It works great, but does nothing for the car. Thus the three stars.
Installed on 1/11/06
---- DC Strut Bars ----
My Rating: * * * * *
My Review:
After I started planning out my modifications, I started to think about some suspension> I wanted something quick, easy, and would help stiffen up the ride a bit while I decided the right suspension set-up I want to run.
I am impressed with these DC strut bars. Some people are convinced these won't fit on an SXT... Well, they are wrong :D
Installed on 1/31/06
---- Vibrant Dual Outlet Muffler ----
My Rating: * * * * *
My Review:
I purchased the Vibrant Exhaust off of the usual place (being Howell Automotive). It sounds really throaty and nice. I'm very happy with how it sounds. Expecting a turbo project in the future, I wanted something cheap to modify the exhaust. I didn't want to spend 600 bucks on a good 2.25" exhaust when it would just be thrown away once the turbo got in. So, a muffler was the obvious choice. The only downside is how it hangs lower than most exhausts. Takes some getting used too...
Installed on 4/27/06
Final Notes
It took some serious muscle to get it off the dang original mounts, but after it was all off the installation went well.
---- 60mm MPx Throttle Body ----
My Rating: * * * * *
My Review:
I went ahead and purchased a 60mm Throttle Body. I wasn't expecting much but to allow better air flow. I was wrong! It turns out the throttle body really helped with throttle response and a bit more performance up on the top end. My old throttle body wasn't cutting it, and this bigger one really opened up some ponies up top. The throttle response went through the roof and was the biggest, notice-able, upgrade.
Installed on 7/20/06
Final Notes:
I know this single upgrade was really early. I should have waited until more engine work had been done. It bogs down really badly when you accelerate too hard from low RPMS. However, it helped for me due to me living at 7,500 ft (and I knew I was doing some major work down the road).
------- Install Tips!! -------
A Quick Tip for Mounting Your MPx or After-market Throttle Body
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PROBLEMS THAT MAY OCCUR DURING INSTALLATION IF YOU FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS! I DO NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS!!
The throttle body comes with no bracing at all. When I installed mine I didn't feel happy with it simply bouncing around in my engine bay!
I went down to Auto Zone and picked up a 3" exhaust gasket with three wholes. I got home and measured the distance from the original mount(from the mount that attaches above the radiator) to a whole that was pre-drilled into my 60mm throttle body. I cut the exhaust gasket leaving 2 holes, matching it up I smoothed out the cut and made sure it fit. I then proceded to thread the whole with a similar sized screw thread. Then I put a washer on both sides of the cut exhaust gasket and attatched the throttle body. This SOLVED the problem of no support!!!
---- Prothane Race Upper and Lower Motor Mounts ----
My Rating: * * * * *
My Review:
I noticed, when accelerating at higher speed, a lack of power being put down to the wheels(thus it would fall flat on its face). Even simply accelerating from a stop a lag and loss of power felt apparent. I looked up the Prothane mounts as a way to eliminate power loss due to engine rattle a wheel hop. Before we dig into this, I purchased the Prothane Race Motor Mounts. Boy did this help with what I new I was feeling at the gas pedal. Up around 75 now accelerates cleanely and smoothly unlike before where she would hesitate and fall on her face. Even better was the response off the line! I can feel that engine get straight to the point instead of simply jostling around.
Installed on 9/20/06
------- Install Tips!! -------
Motor Mount Instructions!!
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PROBLEMS THAT MAY OCCUR DURING INSTALLATION IF YOU FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS! I DO NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS!!
1.) Grab a jack and using a piece of wood (or anything to disperse weight� I used like 5 magazines ;) ), put the jack below the oil pan. Jack it up to where it will support the weight of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO JACK IT UP TOO FAR!! The goal is to allow for easy installation, and it gets a bit tedious when your having to match the wholes for the bolts�
After Jacking and securing your engine, you are free to start anywhere you wish.
2.) I started up top with the upper engine mount. Simply unbolt the bolt holding the engine mount in place. It is firmly in there so a bit of muscle is needed.
3.) You need to cut away some of the old rubber to make it fit. For this, you simply need to place the insert in and see where it is being stopped and cut it away.
4.) After you have the insert in, and using some loctite, place the engine bolt back in and tighten it back in.
5.) The Lower mount is a bit of a PAIN! The only thing that�s different, and a PAIN is the plastic fender wells. You need to take it off, bolts being up underneath the vehicle with some plastic tabs every here and there. Do not try the installation without trying to take the plastic fender wells off, you will fail miserably.
That�s IT!! Good Luck!
---- PaceSetter Header, AEM Adjustable Cam Gear, Crane Valve Springs, Crane Camshaft grind #0012 ----
My Rating * * * * *
My Review:
I really can't tell you what each individual modification did (the header and the camshaft), but what I can tell you is that she feels so much better. Dang what a noticeable gain. I mostly give the minor intake and minor exhaust work I have completed now. I can feel that cams influence throughout the upper power band, and I am sure the horribly made PaceSetter is helping somewhere.
I bought the Crane Cam #0012 for the reason that it is a turbo grind camshaft. I am going to be turbo-ing this beauty, so why not get a turbo grind cam!!
The header I bought as, yet again, another quick exhaust fix. The stock tubing is more than adequate and the only short comings have now been replaced (VERY CHEAPLY!).
Installed on: 3/18/07
------- Install Tips!! -------
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR PROBLEMS THAT MAY OCCUR DURING INSTALLATION IF YOU FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS! I DO NOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS!!
Some Installation Help
If you are planning on doing a cam in your neon, I would recommend doing a few things. I am going to go over some very minor things and some advice I learned from the install.
-Before The Install!
1.) If you don't have a Chilton's manual or something of the like.. BUY IT!
2.) If you are buying anything above a crane cam #0010 (or the equivalent COMP cam) purchase new valve springs. The reason is the added lift given by the new cam and put on the stock springs IS TO GREAT. Buying new valve springs is RECOMMENDED by myself.
3.) If you have never done anything serious to a neon or never gone this far into your engine bay, set aside a good chunk of time to do this. If its your first time doing anything like this to a neon... set aside 3-4 solid days...
--Install Comments
1.) If you get stuck on the metal plate before the belt cover, you need to jack the engine up and down to get to the bolts. They are too long to take out without jacking the engine up and down.
2.) The Valve Spring retainers can be a b!t**. Taking the valve retainers off is no biggy. Putting on the new springs+retainers is the troubling part(especially for the ones on the corners of the block!). For the new springs and retainers I believe we compressed the springs first, set them in place, and put the new retainers on.
Good Luck. If you have questions feel free to ask!
---- PowerSlot Slotted Rotors ----
My Rating * * * * *
My Review:
With a turbo project resting on the horizon, I decided to play it safe and upgrade my braking system. I am more than doubling my horsepower, and stopping WILL become an issue. So, for 89.99 a pop off of www.modernperformance.com , I picked up some PowerSlot Slotted Rotors.
The install took 2 hours, and the setting of the pads took 1/2 an hour. The rotors came with recommended instructions on how to set them in.
They stop great!! No regrets!!
Installed on 4/4/08
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P.1: Current Car Specs and Recent News
P.2: Current and Future Projects
P.3: Project SXT-T Owner Blog (work in progress)
P.4: Your on it.
P.5: Appearance and Misc. Modifications
P.6: Videos of the car (autocross/engine mods/Random)
P.7: Updated Pictures (more of what it looks like now)
P.8: Page dedicated to the passing of a dear friend.
P.9: Pictures from the bigger projects
P.10: Project: Turbo!; Current Project Blogs and Information regarding them.
