This mod will allow both rear tires to get power in 2HI. One tire burnouts suck! I know this is an older truck, but it shows how an "open" differential works.
Locker Mod/ ABS VSC Mod writeup:
Many people have completed this simple Mod and love it. It just takes some basic electronics skills and patience.
LINK TO FACTORY SWITCH WRITEUP
How to use seperate switch-
First, remove your key from the ignition, then remove glovebox and 10MM bolt on the latch
remove black plastic cover held in by latch bolt. You don't actually have to remove the ECU if you find connector F-12. It's the one on the upper right looking at the picture.
A DPDT on-none-on switch is basicly two switches built into one, so for simplification we will divide the switch into two "banks".
In the picture above you can see the divider between the two banks. On this particular switch the center poles are the commons, meaning current flows through them to either on end or the other. The difflock wires run from connector f-12 to the rear end, so the dangling wires will be the ones on the computer side, we hook the ones that run to the rear end to our switch. Attach M1, the green wire from pin 2 to one common, and M2 the Blue wire to the other common on the other bank. Flip the switch to the position you choose to be "UNLOCKED". Attach a +12V fused and keyed power source to the same bank as the blue wire, wich has continuity in the "unlocked position", and hook up the green wire with the black stripe (PIN 21) to the same bank as the green wire, wich has continuity in the unlocked position. Now flip the switch to the locked position, and hook up the pink wire to the same bank as the blue wire. Then attach another +12V wire to the last pin. Put your key back in the ignition, flip the switch to locked, wait for the lock light to stop blinking,and go lay some patches.
This is from the write up Dick Foster from TTORA did, and comatack edited.
An extreme example of where a fully locked rig will get you.
