KLR142's LAST UPDATE: 10/10/07
Newest update are the changes in bold to my car's setup before it was sold.

^^^What my car looked like before I sold it... :(

Just kidding... That's what my car looked like summer of '04, but with wheels I'm considering getting photoshopped onto it. Pretty tight aye?

-Check out the pages one by one, and read the story of my car and I. Also, if you look closely, you will see minor differences in the body always changing(trim, trim colors, wheels, lol). There is a lot more of the story after the last page that I never got around to telling. I might someday, we'll see.

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If you want to see videos of my car in action or more(and higher resolution) pictures, just lemme know in my guestbook and I can lead you to some...
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MY CAR'S CURRENT SETUP!

Weight: 2500lbs in daily driver trim(meaning, with carpeting, single speaker, radio, door panels, bumpers, seats...). When I go to PIR next I'll have the carpet out, the seats out, the bumpers off, and the radio out, and we'll see how much it is then. Oh, and this was with a FULL tank of gas.EDIT: My last time at PIR the car was fully stripped, the camshaft had two worn exhaust lobes and bad valve seats on those two, yet I still managed to lay down a 17.3 second run at 76 miles per hour. GO OLD VOLVO!!! The engine sounds like it has rod knock at idle, but it's been that way for at least a year so I just kept on treating it like it was new... Last I heard, the new owner is still driving it, but he's crashed it at least once, damnit!

Drivetrain:
-1971 b20b junkyard motor, unknown past, and very dirty inside I did compression and leak down tests and the fourth cylinder is down! Bad rings or something. So this motor's down and out, no drag/dyno runs until I get a new motor either built or swapped in. EDIT:The motor was fine, relatively, just needed a valve adjust.
-Pertronix Ignitor installed, instead of getting distributor rebuilt. Timing is much more steady now, car pulls much smoother and stronger and longer in the high rpm.
-Max timing advance set at 32 degress. John Parker says they like 30-32 deg. total advance, that feels about right with my car too, I'll find out what it REALLY likes in about a month on the dyno... =D That equates to approximately the stock setting of 10 degrees static timing.
-Bosch Blue coil
-NGK BP6HS plugs
-Magnecore 8.5mm plug wires
-Rebuilt and slightly modified dual SU HIF6s done by Rhys, of Island Automotion
-Late FI model 4-2-1 exhaust manifold(biggest bore factory b20 setup)
-Full 2" mandrel bent, perforated core, straight through Simons Sportsystem exhaust
-b18 alloy intake manifold
-Changed to:SU HIF6 airbox with stock paper filter(until I can find a fitting K&N) and NO cover on the top, from the previous setup of: SU HIF6 airbox with a K&N remote mounted filter for a CAI. The current setup has more power and sounds damn sexy.

Suspension/brakes/wheels:
-Unknown springs, possibly just drooping stock ones
-16x7 ARE gold mesh beauties with old 205/55-16 tires
-IPD sway bar in front, rear has been REMOVED
-KYB Gas-A-Just(aka "Whites") shocks, used poly sway bar bushings in the front for mounting
-Cut about an inch off of the bump stops front and rear
-Poly sway bushings
-PBR Deluxe front, PBR Metal Master rear
-Brembo replacement rotors
-Castrol GTLMA brake fluid

Exterior
-Painted trim black around turn signals and rear taillights.
-Older style Red/White/Red taillights installed
-New undamaged hood installed, not painted to match quite yet though...
-Front center section(including radiator) from a 71 140
-Stripped bumper rubbers, and painted them black(will eventually be running no bumpers again)
-Stripped side chrome strip and chrome grill surround crap
-replaced big broken stock rear license plate light holder thing with a tiny one from my local auto parts store
-Stripped side markers, rear ones replaced with almost flush ones(need to remove them, go without any)

Interior/Other misc. stuff:
-4 spoke steering wheel for more stiffness when compared to the original 2 spoke
-Painted Valve cover
-Metallic blue goodies: shift knob, door locks, rear grab handles, windshield wipers, and oil filter
-Stripped original black off of dash for that brushed metal
-Partially stripped sound deadening
-Tach on the dash
-Blue lighted toggle switch for the brights in the middle of the dash

To do list:
-Convert to an electric cooling fan that does a better job of cooling at idle, and doesn't sap power above 4krpm and is quieter at those speeds as well(I have one, but haven't finished the custom install yet)
-DYNO IT! I'm expecting about 100hp at the wheels, compared with the 84hp last time in bad tune, etc...
-Take out EVERYTHING, and go to the DRAG STRIP again and lay down something in the high 16s instead of high 18s...Look above, I did a 17.3 at 76 with a head and camshaft that were BADLY worn.
-Oh, and some cut 164 and 245 springs are going in soon

When time/funds allow to do list:
-PBR Ceramic pads when current pads wear out
-Clean up body damage and respray areas(or get a different shell)
-Get shocks that can handle the custom 600lb front and 225lb rear springs I ordered, which might need to be cut down a little bit to lower the car some more so they will actually be stiffer than that... There's no way the KYB's can touch those rates...
-Delrin idler arm bushing
-Custom adjustable panhard and torque rods
-Poly suspension bushings everywhere else
-Some sort of LSD for the rear
-Get black side trim to cover up all the holes from my removed chrome side trim

Not so imperative to do list:
-Get my '74 block rebuilt with lowest overbore needed, deck the block, balance everything...
-Send off the head for modification by John Parker of V-Performance.com and get a custom ground cam from him as well...
-Possibly lighten my already lightened '74's flywheel some more, and install a new clutch/pressure plate
-Finish stripping it for mainly track use(or get a different shell)
-Maybe eventually a respray in a different color(or get a different shell)
-Possible work on adapting vented front rotors with new calipers