Page 1 - Intro
Page 2 - Work Done
Page 3 - Picks from Dealer
Page 4 - Heeater core
Page 5 - Timing and Water pump
>>Page 6 - Diagnostic <<
Page 7 - Exterior
Page 8 - Interior
Page 9 - "Rated R"
Page 10 - Misc

Well How to get the CEL (Check engine light) from the car. First of all you need a check engine light working in the dash, easi way, you can turn the ignition on no starting and light should be there, in the dash. If you have one you are in business. or if you dont have it just move light from another plalace into it, like hand brake or something.
Okey now you have light, thats good.

There is another way, all you need is a LED and a 330 ohm resister. Solred one leg of the resistor to one of the legs of the LED. Its better to connect resister to the minus of the LED, so you could know which is minus and which is plus. You can add extension wire to it, its entirely to you. You plug it between K line and ground or plus. dont remember right. I prefer check engine light in the dash, and thats becouse as you drive you can see if you have something wrong.

Now prepare a jump wire, like 5 cm in length will be enough. Open the hood, or any where were you have fuse box, and there should be two connectors by two [2x2]. easi to spot. some cars have more that 2 pairs like 3 pairs or even 4 pairs. these connectors can be find in older models. Anywho, you can get a OBDII connector and plug it in, so that even an idiot could get the codes.

Going back to pulling the codes. There a two types of codes in my taste, the ones that pop up during driving and thouths that are already present.

Many people will tell you that you will need a computer restart to clean them, but they are wrong. each time you turn the ignition off the computer is restarted. Thats how dealers make you pay more. d:O

Actually doing that. You plug the jump wire directly between L line and ground. for 4 seconds then unplug. run into the car, and even if you are slow no wories the codes will repeat them self untill you turn the ignition off. Then the car will start blinking out the codes if you have any.
Four at the time. there are small intervals and big interval. it goes like this EX.: blink=b, st=s. b s b s s b s b s b s b s s b s b s >>> 2411. Got it? If you have 4444 then evrything fine, others are not. If you have 1111 then the ECU is bad. Like I have 2411 whenever I drive on the highway, it has to do something with EGR.

Now how to check the Oxygen sensors:
well to check oxygen sensors its preaty easy. All you need is a needle, Digital voltmeter, and a car. You have to trace the oxygen sensor from it self to the first connector or hub. Now there is 3 versions of the sensor. 1 wire, 3 wire and 4 wire. Also there is a wideband and short band sensors. in 1 wire sensor the black wire is a sensor wire, in 3 wire connector there is extra 2 wires to the black which are plus and they are for heating [usually white]. In 4 wire to the 3 wires there is one wire that is ground. Now you should have found in our cars 3 wire sensor. trace it from the exaust manifold and then put a needel through the black connector so that you could plug the voltmiter to the sensor. Now if your car is cold then you need to heat her up for about 2 minutes to be exact [1 minute for sensor and 1 minute just to be sure]. If car was running before then give her about 1 minutes. As you plug plus of the voltmiter to the sensor's black wire, connect minus to the minus of the car. turn the sensor in boudries of >1 volt. And read the values, the values supose to vary between 0.1V to 0.9V. if value is 0 or more that 1 volt then the sensor is bad. If the value is always the same then the sensor is bad. If values vary between, then sensor is probably good. I say probably becouse, the values might be wrong to the relationship to A/F mixture, reasons are too cold sensor, too hot, carbon deposit, old etc....
Example when I idle the sensor's vary between 0.4V to 0.7V ocasionaly goes to 0.1V to 0.8V-0.9V. the sensor jumps circles between values in about 2-5 seconds.

If the sensor is bad, You have 3 choises:
1. buy 1 new sensor, its cheaper but not recomended by me becouse second sensor might be diferent values and old,etc..
2. buy 2 new sensors.
3. make a o2 simulator, which will act as 02 sensor but will not work as well.

Also if you cheap then you can put regular 1 wire sensor in. It will take longer to start working that 3 or 4 wire sensor. If the ECU wont throw a CEL the its fine, if it will you will have to put resistor between plus wires and ground. No big deal. Or you could just leave the sensor heat wires in the sensor but take the signal wire and rewire it through the new sensor. eather way works fine.

Simulator, very easy to build, just take a treap to local Radio Shack. buy Components:
R1 100 K Ohm
R2 1 M Ohm
R3 100 K Ohm
R4 10 K Ohm
C1 4.7 uF
C2 22 uF
D1 1.7v@20mA LED
D2 1.7v@20mA LED
and a 555 chip.

I took it from Oxygen simulator
Dont get woried, all is cool.
You can use it but its a bit iligal. This unit will buipass the cat check up. The disadvantage is that ECU will work a bit wrong, and might very the AF ratio. not buy a lot. Just think about what it can do, and can't.

Wideband sensor:
well there is no diagnostic for it, but I will tell anyway. Wideband is same as narrowband, but with one diference. Wideband sensor as suggests from its name is wide range sensor. it works from 0.1V to 5V. From 9:1 to 20:1
And if to compare to narrowband works only in 14.7:1 and volatge output by a book is 0.1V to 1.1V and slite variation in fuel mix puts narrowband into off 0.1V or on 1.1V thats why if you want a A/F sensor wich is presise you must use wideband sensor. :-) And Best of all on our V6 cars there are 2 slots for O2 sensors on each exaust. one is used by stock sensor, second is closed. You can use second hole to use WB O2. ;)

MAF sensor:
Ah the metter of life. Without it cars that have electric injectors would have to run on carbs or mechanical injectors. Its really easy to check. All you do as a O2 sensor is plug in and see what voltage there is. Our MAF sensor has 3 wires. 12V plus, minus, output. How it works, I have no idea, but I'm glad its there.
RPM V.
800 1.45V
1100 1.57V
2000 1.9V
2500 2.03V
3000 2.3V
3500 2.4V
Floor the pedal max V would be 3V
its easy the more voltage then ECU knows ther is more air, then it increases the impulse wides of open injector, thously increases fuel.

MAF sensor, 1 wire power, 2 wire ground, 3 wire sensor

Pasenger side connector for O2 sensor

Driver's side connector for O2 sensor

Both oxygen sensors have a 2 wire conector for heating, and 1 black wire for sensor.
Coming up:
etc.... :-)
ask And I try to explain, really dont be shy :)

Page 1 - Intro
Page 2 - Work Done
Page 3 - Picks from Dealer
Page 4 - Heeater core
Page 5 - Timing and Water pump
>>Page 6 - Diagnostic <<
Page 7 - Exterior
Page 8 - Interior
Page 9 - "Rated R"
Page 10 - Misc