How-To's on this page:
- Blue LED's in gauge cluster
- Flip-flop trunk
- SRT-4 gauge pod
- SRT-4 vac/boost gauge
- Second SRT-4 gauge pod

--> How to install blue LED's in your gauge cluster

--> Tired of the green cluster lights? Changing them to blue LED's is very simple and wont cost you very much!

What you'll need:
- 8 LED lights, 12V 194 (6 if you dont replace the turn indicators)
- Philips screw driver, stubby and a long one.
- Pliers
- Piece of rubber hose

--> Find yourself 8 blue LED's

--> Remove all 4 screws holding the dash in place.

--> Remove the side pillar covers.

--> Remove the dash cover. Start up pushing up to release all the metal clips, then pull straight back.

--> Remove the plastic cover at the bottom of the gauge cluster.

--> Remove all 4 screws holding the gauge cluster in place.

--> Remove the gauge cluster by simply pulling it forward. You don�t have to worry about wires because the gauge just plugs into the dash.

--> Remove one of the illumination lights by twisting it. They will be the big gray ones.

--> Now the difficult part. You need to remove the light bulb from the socket, but it is very hard because the light bulb is actually soldered in place. CAREFULLY used some pliers and an old piece of rubber hose to remove the bulb. Don�t squeeze too hard because it will break and send glass flying everywhere.

--> Insert the LED into the socket. You need to make sure that your contact wires look like mine in the picture in order for the bulb to make contact.

--> Now another tricky part. LED�s are polarity sensitive. You need to make sure the positive terminal is connected to the positive power supply from the gauge cluster. This might take some trial and error to get it working. I suggest you replace 1 bulb at a time, plug the gauge cluster back in, and make sure it is working correctly. If it isn�t reverse the bulb in the socket.

-->Here is the finished product. I�m not quite happy with the looks. I purchased the LED�s that emit light from the end of the bulb and I think I needed the ones that emit from the side. Good enough for now but I will be changing them sometime in the near future.

--> *Update* This is what it looks like with the reverse lens wide angle LED's. Much better!

--> Good luck and feel free to contact me with any questions!

--> How to flip-flop your trunk

--> You've seen them at car shows and in magazines. Now it�s time to "flip-flop" the Neon. And best of all, it's almost free!

What you'll need:
- 10mm socket & ratchet
- Flat tip screw driver
- Reciprocating sway or angle grinder
- Hacksaw
- File
- Think clean blanket
- Masking tape
- Two washers
- A friend

--> First draw a circle around the bolt connecting the trunk to the connecting arms. This will allow us to correctly position the trunk when we are finished.

--> Disconnect all the wires and pull the harness out of the trunk. Use the flat tip screw driver to open the clips holding the black wire casing to the trunk connecting arms.

--> Remove the bottom bolts on both sides of the trunk using the 10mm socket and ratchet.

--> Now with the bottom bolts removed, lower the trunk and remove the top bolts. This will prevent the trunk from falling on your rear window. I suggest placing a blanket under the corners of the trunk just in case it slips.

--> Once all the bolts are out, get your friend to help you remove the trunk and place it on the thick clean blanket. BE CAREFUL not to scratch your paint!!

--> Mask of the sides of the trunk bracket and some of the surrounding area.

--> Using the hack saw, cut a small notch into the bracket. This will make it easier to start cutting with the reciprocating saw or angle grinder.

--> Now using the reciprocating saw or angle grinder, cut a section out of the bracket so that the connecting arms can freely pivot on the bracket. Clean up the sharp edges with a file so you don�t cut yourself.

--> The finished product.

--> Now get your friend to help you re-install the trunk. Start with the top bolts this time and insert a washer between the trunk bracket and the connecting arm. Don't tighten it too much at this point. Once you have both top bolts in place, the trunk should be able to easily pivot. If it does not easily pivot, you may need to remove more metal from the trunk bracket.

--> Finish the project by installing the bottom two bolts and reconnecting the wires. You may want to paint some parts for a better look.

--> Now when you go to a car show you can pull out the bottom two bolts and "flip-flop" your trunk

--> Good luck and feel free to contact me with any questions!

--> How to install a SRT-4 gauge pod

--> As most of you know, a custom gauge pod was designed for the SRT-4 in order to house the boost gauge. Luckily for us SX 2.0 (and Neon) owners, this gauge pod will also fit into our cars because they share the same dash cover. In this how to, I�ll show you how you can install one of these gauge pods.

What you�ll need:
- A SRT-4 gauge pod, part # WX53XDVAA, aprox $25 CAD
- Dremel or drill with sharp drill bit
- Two nuts and bolts with washers
- Silicone or hot glue

--> Remove the dash panel and turn over. Remove the dash part on the underside.

--> Notice that there is a location to mount the gauge pod.

--> Now mark a section to cut out of the dash. Be careful and make lots of measurements! The dash is worth about $210 CAD. Cut the hole using a Dremel or a drill. It doesn�t need to be perfect, as long as the gauge covers everything up. I went a bit too far on the lower left side so don�t cut as far down as I did.

--> This is what the cut should have looked like.

--> You�ll need to find a way to mount the pod now. I used hot glue to attach nuts to the under side of the dash piece, whatever works. Here is what the finished product will look like.

--> Good luck and feel free to contact me with any questions!

--> How to install a SRT-4 Vac/Boost gauge

--> Now that you know how to put a gauge pod in, we�ll need something to put in it! In this how to, I�ll show you how you can install a SRT-4 Vac/Boost gauge. I know the boost portion of the gauge is useless, but the VAC is nice for monitoring vacuum leaks when you do intake mods. At SRTforums.com, you can get one of these gauges dirt cheap!

What you�ll need:
- SRT-4 Vac/Boost gauge. I suggest looking on the srtforums.com website.
- All the connecting nuts and hoses.
- Teflon tape.
- Drill and bit.
- Electrical wire.
- Shrink tube or black electrical tape.

--> Remove the dash panel. Notice there is a very convenient power supply. Black is ground and the other two are +12 V. Connect your gauge light to these power lines. Once connected, turn the key on and make sure the gauge lights up.

--> Route the vacuum hose through the dash to somewhere near the brake pedal. Drill a small hole through the firewall to route the hose into the engine bay. I drilled mine near where the hood release cable goes through the firewall.

--> Mount the gauge in the pod, connect the vacuum hose, and put the dash back together.

--> Now we need to connect the vacuum hose to the engine. I tied into my cruse control vacuum line by adding a T connector.

--> I connected my vacuum line using water proof shrink tube. Place the shrink tube over the T connector and the vacuum line. Insert the vacuum line into the T connector. Make sure you don�t push it in too far. Heat the shrink tube. Now start the engine and check for leaks. If all goes well, your gauge will now be working. My car idles at about -20.

--> Good luck and feel free to contact me with any questions!

--> How to install a second SRT-4 gauge pod

--> I�ve heard some talk about whether or not a second gauge pod could be installed to the right of the current gauge pod. After looking at the dash for a while and thinking about it, I decided to try it. I was confident it would work, and I was right! In this how to, I�ll show you how you can install a second SRT-4 gauge pod.

What you�ll need:
- A SRT-4 gauge pod, part # WX53XDVAA, aprox $25 CAD
- Dremel or drill with sharp drill bit
- Two nuts and bolts with washers
- Silicone or hot glue
- Aprox 3x3� piece of tin and tin snips
- Pop rivets or self taping screws

--> Remove the dash panel and existing gauge pod and turn over. Remove the dash part on the underside.

--> Mark out the section of the dash that will need to be cut out. Keep in mind that in this picture I cut the first hole out myself so yours will most likely look different. Just make sure the two pods fit nicely side by side.

--> Cut the hole out using the Dremel or drill.

--> Now you need to cut the underside part of the dash in order to make room to mount the new gauge.

--> In order to mount the pod, you need to make a mount out of the tin. It�s not really hard, just time consuming. You�ll need to play around with it until you get a good fit.

--> The new pod will need to be shortened in order to fit under the dash properly. Trim the two back edges until the pod will fit under the dash.

--> Now you can drill some holes in your tin and mount the pod.

--> If the gauge doesn�t quite fit when you try to reinstall the dash, you can do one of two things. Position the pod further back so it fits, or cut into the dash above the air vents. I personally cut into the dash using a utility knife because I didn�t want to change my mount position for the pod.

--> Good luck! Take your time and everything will work out OK. Feel free to contact me with any questions!

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Page 3 - Appearance Mods
Page 4 - How To's
Page 5 - Various Pics