My dad orriginally baught and owned the car. The car was made 6 months before the DOHC version was introduced so at the time the SOHC ACR was the only thing topping it. The first thing he did to it was remove the stock pipe and add the Dynomax 2.5" pipe and add a Dynomax SuperTurbo mufler, which later I blew out and ran with no muffler for a while. Oh man did that sound good. Then He added a Catco Cat and a drop in K&N air filter. Up until this point Hondas were a worthy adversairy, but no longer. He added some rims and to date only BBS's could overshadow them. And his last mod was a Centerforce Clutch. Test time. Two weeks later he took it to Texas Motor Speedway dropped a bill and clocked in at 142 mph. The mods stopped comming and then he dropped it for, guess what, a Honda. He claimed it had a broader torque curve. But it sat in the drive way untill I was 15 then I got my hands on it. My first mod was to get rid of the big honkin truck driver steering wheel. I added a Red MOMO Trek steering wheel. Oh baby the suede and Italian leather felt good in my hands. Now because I had removed the airbag I was faced witha safety issue. I then added a MOMO 4 pt harness to solve that problem. Next, I made, yes made, a P.O.S. "cold air" intake out of ribbed intake hose and shoved a cylyndrical K&N airfilter on it. Which fell off a few times. So Two filters later I thought I leanred my lesson and made an intake out of PVC. Hey I worked good, I shaved a second off my 0-60 (results courtesy of Mr. GTECH Pro). At this point I hated my car being 7 inches off the ground. So I decided to throw, DropZone coilovers on my neon. WORST MISTAKE OF MY LIFE!!!! THEY BIND AROUND EVERY CORNER AND OVER EVERY DIP IN THE ROAD!!! Don't be swayed by their promise of a a 4 inch drop or any other for that manner! Sure it looks good mbut My suspension has about 1.5 inches of travel! Now I paird those crappy springs with KYB shocks. Handling was so so. Now at this point, I heard a rattling comming from my lifetime warranty, Dynomax SuperTurbo muffler. So I investigated and startied pulling metal strips from my exhaust tip. Most of you would say "SWEET NO MUFFLER INNARDS" or something like that. Me I went to the internet and looked at what it looked like inside. Turns out no inside baffling would hurt my performance on this paticular muffler, so I removed it and oh baby. My first test run around the neighborhood I heard a "WOOO YEAHH!" a "HELL YEAH!" and a "HEY! TURN THAT S**T DOWN!" Then something happened that made my hear sink,(at this point I had not changed the intake to PVC)I would suddenly lose power at 4500 rpm. I thought I had no backpressure, so I thought I needed something that would give me some, (I had had my heart set on a Dynomax Ultraflow). I started shopping around for a (sigh) a fart can. I knew they had a big opening in the middle, and a little on on the exit. I also thought valve float, vut it was too early in the mileage for that, so I popped the hood, reved the engine a bit, nothing, so I said to hell with it, I ripped that thing wide open, then that piece of crap ribbed intake sucked shut. I thought "WOOO HOOO HELL YEAH NO FART CAN FOR ME!!!!" Next, with my annual state inspection comming up, I needed to shop for a real muffler, I knew that Dynomax was a great choice so I baught the Ultraflow. Which out flows all other mufflers with the exception of a glasspack. So to recap at this point I have KYBs, DZ Coilovers, No Intake (air filter on TB), Centerforce clutch, 2.5" pipe, catco cat, and a Dynomax muffler. Next I relocated my battery to the trunk. Then I added the PVC intake in its place. It was about time to change plug wires so I put in some magnecores. It smoothed out some Idle issues, as well as gave me a lifetime warranty on the wires. Then my brakes needed replacing so I looked to a Canadin company called Lomandi for some slotted and drilled rotors. WOW! Stopping was amazing! Paired with Kevlar Metalic pads it stopped on a dime! Then I wanted my intake remade into metal, so I removed it and gave it to one of my friends who was good a metal fabrication. I never saw him or the intake again. So I decided screw it I threw the filter on the TB, again. Next I kept getting a O2 sensor heater circuit failure code, intermittantly. So I replaced the O2 sensor, a week later my MIL was back on, I said uh uh, no, not O2 sensor. I was kicking my self because this meant PCM which brings me to my most current mod. I swapped out my stock PCM with the MOPAR performance PCM. This is where my dyno run came in. I wanted a before and after shot as well as a 5 gas analysis. I pulled the prommised 11 horsepower as well as 50 other ponies that just seemed to show up. I had never run a 1/4 before so I didn't know how much power I realy had. I asked them to do it on the Dyno, 14.8 at 85mph I was shocked! To this date I don't know where them horses came from but I have a few ideas. I've been told they put a cam with 29 degrees of overlap in some of the 95's and discontinued it after 95 because of idle issues. My dad did have the head off while the car was in the body shop after it had been hit right out of the dealership after his first oil change. Or it could have been a combination of the 95 cam and having the air filter on the TB while having the hood up. Think about it, ram air and cold air at the same time. But I realy don't know and I'm not about to pop my vavle cover to find out. I have plans to (soon) replace my crappy DZ for Ground Controls, get an AEM cold air intake and add a moroso oil pan, because my car is so low it dented the oilpan going over a speed bump. Now my car does have some esthetic issues, but I'm more about the speed and performance than the "bling". Er ya go, thats my car! Oh I added the last picture cause I liked it.
Oil pan is here! Pictures below! Notice the two trap doors that will be well lubricated in 6.25 Qts of Royal Purple ("not including oil filter"). Man I needed this, install pictures comming tomorrow or Thursday! No more dry sump around corners for me!!!!
Oil pan is installed!!! Installed it wednesday but didn't have time to upload pictures. The install was done by myself, it took about 2.5 hours to complete, as soon as I figured out you had to remove the front motormout, and the transmission to engine brace on the back of the engine which no longer fits. When I pulled my ye olde dendted oil pan I was expecting a little sludge, but I was met not with sludge, but brass particles, in a clay-like substance, well, that means my bearings are worn and it's time for a bottom end overhaul. But I was pleasantly surprised to find that ALL of the bottom end components were well lubricated, and were free of "excessive wear". I was worried most about the oil pickup screen being partialy clogged but as you can see it's shiny and clean! The parts are kind of brownish but that just the old oil on them, which seems to blacken 100 miles after an oil change. With that said I am switching to synthetic, and I am not putting cheap stuff in it, I am using the best, Royal Purple 20-50. I'm hoping that the combination of the oil pan and the oil will give me the 3hp I need to jump over that 200 mark. Some of you might say oil I can believe, but a pan can't give you power. Think about it like this, more oil means you have a larger suppluy not being used So what is is doing? It is being cooled by air flowing over the oil pan removing the heat. The more oil that just sits there the more it can cool, and with cooler oil comes more power. It can lubricate better. Now, with that said, the install was not one without problems. When I got the oil pan, and this is important, THEY NEGLECTED TO TELL ME THAT THE BUNG PLUGS WERE NOT TIGHTENED!!!!! So on the drive home one of them fell out, luckily it was the top one so I still had a 4 qt reserve. I didn't find out untill I was almost at work and I smelt burning oil and saw smoke comming from under my hood. So since I lost one I had to have the parts guys find a replacement. What did they find? The new Fram SureDrain plug. I simply turned it around backwards and shoved th big end into the pan. It was a perfect fit! but since it's that end that a rod on the SureDrain tube pushes in on the seal, I now have pressure pushing that seal open and oil occasionaly flowing out. But it's fixed, almost. I had a few guys ask me at work, "Wow was that custom made?" I'd say It is handmade but it's mass produced. Which of course it is. The welds are fatastic! They are perfect, not one of them is off. But with that said my oil changes cost around $60 now and I don't care!
Change-O-Plans! Next will be the Mopar Performance motor mount, Prothane motor mount insterts, and the Mopar Performance bobble strut.
They should be here Tuesday, and installed Wednesday.
Motor mounts have been installed! WOW! Heal-and-toe and double-clutching are a snap! Throttle response is phenomenal! The engine vibrations coursing through the car feel almost therapudic! And it gets a nice little judder around 7400 rpm! It makes it feel more stripped down, more bare-bone, more, dare I say, race car like! This is a must for those who want to go fast and feel like their doing it! Sorry no photos, didn't have a camera in the shop. And this is not something I reccomend doing yourself, the front one is easy but the two sidemounts I'd leave to a pro. They will probably cost about $100 to install the two sides. God I love my car!
I AM SAVING FOR A STAGE 2 HAHN RACECRAFT TURBO (POSSIBLY SWAPPING OUT THE 16G FOR A 20G TURBO), THE UPGRADED MPX INTERCOOLER, AND THE MPX 3" STAINLESS EXHAUST. TOTAL ABOUT 4G'S I'M 1/8TH OF THE WAY THERE!
Thanks for visiting!