TAKE NOTE: Some of these mods are no longer on my car, and all the information contained in their descriptions is over a year old as of October 2004. The 1/4 mile times and impressions of the mods are my impressions and times as of october 2003 and may have changed in the past year. I'll update everything when I get the chance/motivation.Suspension-Ground Control Coilovers 500# f 400# r-KYB AGX Struts-Vibrant FSTB-Stillen 29mm RSB-WarpSpeed Subframe connectors and crossbraces stage 1 and 2.Info, Opinions, and Impressions-Ground Control coilovers: I purchased these in March, 2001. Install is easy once you get the rusted bolts loose. Make no mistake, they are stiff as hell. Most people, including friends who are car enthusiasts complain. I�ll admit, they suck on bad roads. But on smooth pavement they are a dream. The only thing I�d replace them with would be some JIC FLT-A2s, but those are $1500 whereas the GCs are $395. You can get any spring rates you want from GC for an extra $50.Some pics of my 2.75" drop:-KYB AGX struts: Purchased in June 02, to replace the blown KYB GR2s. GR2s are decent struts, but NOT up to the task of handling the super stiff spring rates of the GCs. AGXs are 8 way adjustable in the rear and 4 way adjustable in the front. I usually run them at 4 in the rear on the street and crank them up to full stiff for drag racing to reduce squat and autoX/road course to aid rotation. $360 for the set from TireRack.-Vibrant front strut tower bar: This is a no name strut bar I bought from ProCarParts in April 2001. For $47 it�s a steal. It�s thicker than any other strut bar out there, polished aluminum so it looks decent, and cheap as hell. Why pay $220 for a $tillen $trut bar when you can have this one for $47. -Stillen Rear Sway Bar: I can�t say enough about the Stillen Rear Sway Bar. It is awesome. Fully adjustable, I have mine set directly under the rear beam axle and the handling is completely neutral. This mod absolutely transforms the car. The first time I was ever on a road course I was without this bar, I only had the GCs and FSTB. What a difference this bar makes. I was an understeering maniac without it, with it I can get the rear end out with just a little throttle or steering input. It really is amazing that a front driver can handle like this. Whether you opt for the thicker, Stillen RSB or the cheaper Addco RSB if you are modifying a Maxima, you need one or the other. The Stillen bar is not cheap, it cost me $240 from Greg at www.custommaxima.com, its $260 if you get it directly from Stillen. The Addco bar is $130 if I recall correctly and has polyurethane bushings and is thinner than the Stillen. Unless you are racing you won�t be able to tell a difference.-WarpSpeed SFCs stage 1&2: These make a helluva difference. Purchased from WarpSpeed for $210 for both stages, they require welding to the unibody, which cost me another $150. They solidify the car considerably, small squeaks and rattles have disappeared, and over broken pavement the car is WORLDS more livable, with the stiffness of the GCs cracked pavement was a nightmare, but the SFCs make it much better. You can see Stage 1 in the pic on the left underneath the car.Brakes My current project is adapting 13.0x1.1" SVT Cobra rotors and 300ZX aluminum 4 piston calipers to my car in order to improve my braking ability. Check below for an update on my progress.-13.0" SVT Cobra rotors -300ZX 4 piston aluminum calipers-Lucas rear rotors-Hawk HP endurance compound pads-Ford HD brake fluidInfo, Opinions, and Impressions-13.0" SVT Cobra Rotors: On Thursday 06.19 I worked for 8 hours trying to fabricate a usable bracket out of 3/8" cold rolled mild steel. I had previously made the bracket out of 3/8" plywood. I transferred my template to the surface of the steel and attempted to cut a roughly accurate shape out of the steel using a plasma cutter. Lets just say that didn�t work so well. The plasma cutter I was using had something wrong with it, it would not make a decent cut. It was sputtering and shutting off every few seconds, so there was no way I was making a clean cut. My cuts ended up looking like they had been done by a 3 year old. So obviously that left me with a lot of grinding. So after 8 hours of cutting, grinding drilling and test fitting, I finally had one usable bracket. Sweet.So Friday 06.20 I head back to the shop to complete the other bracket and finish the conversion. The plasma cutter still sucked but I had the second bracket done in like 2 hours. Then came the task of figuring out how to center the 13" Cobra rotor on the hub. The centerbore of the Cobra is 71mm while the Maxima is 68mm, and the lugs on the maxima are 1.25mm diameter whereas the lugs on the Cobra are 1.5mm. These two differences combine to make it so that the Cobra rotor sits unacceptably off center on the Maxima hub. Something must be done to center the rotor on the hub. I accomplished this by locating a length of tubing with just the right inside diameter to shim the rotor against the lugs. I cut �� lengths of this tubing and hammered them into the lug holes on the rotor. This worked perfectly to center the rotor on the hub. Finally I had to mount up the calipers and hook up the brake lines. This is where things went south. The 300ZX calipers are meant to take a hard line with a tapered fitting but I had been told that stock Maxima lines would work ok. Perhaps this is the case for some people but for me this turned out to be disastrous. No matter how tight I got the bolt, it would still leak. So I started cranking down on it more. Eventually the softer aluminum threads on the caliper couldn�t take the stress and ripped out. So I ended up having to grind on the stock calipers to make them wide enough for the thicker Cobra rotors to fit them. After a few hours of grinding I was all set. I had my larger rotors installed but still using stock calipers. I�ll update again when I install the Z calipers.-300ZX 90-92.5 Aluminum 4 Piston Brake Calipers: Not yet installed yet.-Hawk HP Pads: These HP replaced my previous HPS pads. HPS is an aggressive street pad that is great for AutoX use but on a road course will start to fade away after 3 or 4 hard laps. It can get a little scary out there not knowing if your pads are going to be there at the end of a 110mph blast down the front straightaway. The HP are a vast improvement. Though they lack the cold performance of the HPS or even an OEM pad, the race performance of the pads is great. After repeated 15 lap sessions around brake intensive road courses, they�ve never left me scared(except when they are just worn down to nothing). It takes about 2 laps to get them up to temp and once they are at full operating temperature they bite HARD and stay consistent throughout the lapping session. In a perfect world I�d use HPS on the street and for AutoX and Hawk Blues for road course lapping, but at $80 a pair I�ll stick with AutoZone pads for street use and HP for AutoX and lapping.-Ford Heavy Duty Brake fluid: Great fluid, recommended to me by a fellow autoXer. A dry boiling point up there with Motul 600, at 550* it�s the highest dry BP you will find in any normal brake fluid. It costs $4 a pint at your local Ford dealership whereas Motul or ATE will cost you 4 times that much.Future pads: My next race pad will be something along the lines of full race Hawk Blues. No more messing around with streetable pads on the track. I want this thing to STOP. HP are good, but I can get better.Engine-Cattman SS Y-pipe-JWT POP Charger-WarpSpeed Testpipe-Variable Intake Manifold-JWT ECU w/ 7200RPM limiter Info, Opinions, and Impressions-Cattman SS Y-Pipe: This thing rocks. I added the Y pipe on 11.03.01 and I went from a best time of 14.87 @ 92.68mph bone stock to a best of 14.46 @ 96.47mph with just the addition of the Y pipe. I purchased it slightly used from Josh G. for $360. Dyno proven to give 14-16hp and 16-19tq at the wheels.-JWT POP Charger: Cheapest intake out there and in my opinion the best. Identical to the Stillen Intake but about $80 less brand new. I purchased mine for $99 on 04.03.02. Sounds mean as hell as you can hear from the Dyno video and track video. Will sound meaner once I get a midpipe to replace the last intake resonator. Good for 4-5hp at the wheels. I ran a best of 14.41 @ 96.7 with the intake and y-pipe combo-WarpSpeed Testpipe: Does virtually nothing for performance but it was only $25, maybe good for 1 or 2 hp.-Variable Intake Manifold: Also known as the VIM or MEVI (Middle East Variable Intake) or just VI, the MEVI modification took the Maxima community by storm in winter/early spring 02. It was discovered that the 97-99 Maxima in the Middle East (Bahrain, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, etc) was a direct replacement for the USIM (US Intake Manifold.) I purchased mine in April 02 from John C for $545, he got them from a dealership in Japan. You need another $75 or so in accessories to make it work. It arrived in July 02 because a typhoon damaged the manufacturing facility in Japan and delayed production. The MEVI does not gain much peak HP on the dyno, I only gained 2hp at peak, where it shines is past peak. Before the MEVI I made 182hp at 5400RPM and about 125hp at 6500rpm, the power dropped off dramatically as the engine gets close to redline. Now I�m making about 184hp at 6000RPM and about 180hp at 6500RPM, I�m putting 55 more HP to the ground at redline. Power is extended far past redline, to about 7200RPM, which is the reason for my next mod, the JWT ECU. As you can imagine, stock intake manifolds are not commonly replaced, and I heard that Nissan Japan was making these as the orders came in because of the newfound demand for them. I was about the 10th person in the USA to have this manifold, there are about 25 in the USA at this time. Install took me about 10 hours over 3 days to complete, never having done anything this involved before. I repeated the effort on a friends car in about 3 hours.-JWT ECU: The JWT ECU along with MEVI is absolutely awesome! I dropped from 13.99 to 13.62 on slicks and my MPH increased from a best of 98.38 to 100.99mph. On street tires I went from a best of 14.41 to 13.98. The main reason for getting the JWT ECU is to extend the rev limiter. The MEVI was getting cut off right when it starts to really shine at 6500RPM. I�ve gotten JWT to program my ECU with a 7200RPM fuel cutoff to take full advantage of the MEVI. Gains with the JWT are about 8hp and 10-12ft-lb of torque at peak. It cost $595 directly from JWT. I can't say enough about this mod.-Megan Racing Catback: This catback is loud. Without the silencer in it is too loud. It drones a bit at highway speeds but is bearable. Around town though it's annoying. This exhaust is made to fit 97-99's only. To get it to fit a 95-96 one must either extend their current test pipe about 6" or get a little test pipe made to mate it to the catalytic converter. The finish of the exhaust is excellent. Welds are perfect and hangars are well placed. Inside diameter of the piping is 2.25", not 2.5" as advertised. The only really redeeming quality of this exhaust is that it's cheap, I got mine for $305 shipped. If I had it to do over I'd get a different exhaust. I'll most likely be replacing the muffler section because this muffler looks too ricey and is too darn loud.Wheels/Tires-17x7.5 Kosei K1 Anthracite 45mm offset (street/autoX/road course)-235-40-17 Toyo Proxes T1-S (street/autoX/road course)-15x6" Mazda Millenia wheels--11.5 lbs-- with M&H Racemaster 6.0/26.0-15" slicks for drag racing--30lbs total for the comboInfo, Opinions, and Impressions-Kosei K1: Lightweight, decently priced, good looking: a wheel after my own heart. I wanted these wheels for a long time and finally got them. At 16.5lbs in 17x7.5� they are very light, eclipsed only by the truly expensive forged wheels which will run you at least $350 a piece. I got the K1s for $190 a piece (plus shipping) from a friend at Discount Tire who got them through TireRack. TireRack is the exclusive importer of Kosei Wheels from Japan. The K1 is no longer imported to the USA and TireRack has run out of them. If you want some, you�ll have to find them used. -Toyo Proxes T1-S: Ho-Ly-Crap. These tires rule. I got them for a killer deal, $100 a piece whereas retail is $180 a piece in this size. These tires grip like they are holding on to the edge of the world and won�t let go. Wet traction is as good as my previous Kumho 712s and Toyo FZ4s were in the dry. Dry traction is phenomenal. Treadwear was good, I got about 20K miles out of my first set with my retarded camber settings (3* in front). Here's a pic of them.-Mazda Millenia wheels: Why you might ask? Well, they weigh 11.5lbs. Now you understand. I was first informed about these at the Integra Type R Expo at Gingerman Raceway in August 2002. I had no idea they were so light. Though a little skinny, I was able to find a slick to mount on them, and they make a killer combo at the drag strip. 25lbs for the combo.-M&H Racemaster slicks: Slicks are sweet. Gone are the days of throttle modulation and hoping I don't fudge a launch at the drag strip. Now I do a burnout, stage, tach it up to 5500 (still on stock clutch otherwise I'd drop it right from redline) and drop the clutch. No drama, no spin, no wheelhop. Just get the hell out of the way because I'm coming through. My best 60' to date is 1.83 seconds. its the clutch that's holding back the launches at this point, not the tires. Knock on wood.Body-FiberImages carbon fiber hood CF HOOD NO LONGER ON CAR-1997 Front bumper-1997 Corner lampsInfo, Opinions, and Impressions-FiberImages CF hood: Hmm, not the easiest purchase I�ve ever made. It worked out in the end though. The first hood they sent me was smashed in shipping. This caused a problem as my car was in the body shop because of an accident on 02.12.02. The hood was the only thing needed to complete it and get it back to me. To my surprise, FiberImages sent me another hood right away. It cost $590 shipped through a group purchase, normally they are $750 shipped individually. Finish is good except for a minor blemish in FiberImages� mold that seems to show up in all their CF hoods. Fitment leaves a bit to be desired, the passenger side front corner sticks up about � inch higher than it should. I�ll be getting hood pins, not because I like them, but because I need to get it to sit flush with the fenders on both sides. The end result is good however. The stock hood weighs 46lbs and the CF hood weighs between 13 and 16lbs depending on who you talk to. Mine tipped the scales at 15lbs on a bathroom scale.UPDATEMy CF hood was destroyed in my deer collision incident. I'm using the stock hood again but I will leave this info up here for people to check out.-1997 Front bumper and corner lamps: I like the 97 front bumper better and as a result of my 02.12.02 accident I decided to get a 97 bumper to replaced the damaged 96 bumper. The corner lamps were the first ones I found for sale, $25 from some guy in California.Rice ModsHyper White headlight bulbs of unknown brandBrushed Aluminum dash kit from Joshua Tree. I still can't believe I dropped nearly $300 on this, it looks great, but $300 is a lot to spend on a purely cosmetic modification. It cost more than my $tillen RSB for God's sake!Autocross PicturesMost recent: with Kosei K1s, carbon fiber hood, and Hawk HP brake pad dust clearly visible :DOlder pictures from 2001, showing the boat anchor Konig Verdicts and original front clip.This is not my dyno, its my friend's stock 350Z and I am hosting it for him.