Home | Performance | Audio | Exterior Styling | Interior | Images

Engine

Nordic Stage 3 ECU
I finally got around to upgrading my T7 ECU. I sent the ECU in to GenuineSaab's Nordic techs in Missouri, sat around for two LONG days, and woke one morning to find the ECU on the front porch. It was a simple re-install, and I also added the required 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator. End result: very happy.

Car's running really solid, nice smooth application of ridiculous power. I'm boosting a steady 18 psi in third, fourth, fifth - first and second go by waaay to quickly to take my eyes off the road long enough to look at the gauge. Running that much boost makes the stock recirc valve really loud - sounds pretty menacing. Not to mention the high-pitched whine from the turbo that makes the middle aged dude in the M5 next to me (true story) look over as I pass him easily climbing a pretty steep hill.

Nordic projects 250hp and 288 ft.lb. of torque - *do do do do doo* I'm lovin' it :)

I'm very pleased with the results, and I keep getting amazed at how much quicker my car is than it used to be. It's very powerful, and yet still comfortable to drive as my daily driver.

One complaint: I'm gonna need new tires SOON.

K&N drop-in filter
By replacing the stock filter with this higher-flow air filter, more air gets to the engine, so I get more power... or so the theory goes. Regardless, it makes a really cool whooshing noise. The intake, combined with the whine from the turbo, makes my car sound like it's about to inhale the little Honda in front of me. And that's well worth a $50 filter that never has to be replaced.

Intake Resonator Delete
The intake on the T-7 9-3s includes a resonator, which is like a secondary air box beneath the air cleaner element. The stated purpose of the resonator is that it functions as an induction silencer. Now, I'm not a big fan of the word "silence", so I removed the resonator. I did the research afterwards and found out that the resonator is responsible for 25% of the air restriction in the intake, so I have theoretically improved the efficiency of my intake by about 25%. And it is no longer silenced, so it sounds beastly.

**UPDATE, 3/31/06** The two previous mods (panel filter + resonator delete) no longer apply. They worked well together for quite a while, but I finally got a chance to upgrade, and I'm very happy with their replacement. Read more below:

GenuineSaab Open-Air Intake
I removed the above-mentioned K&N filter to replace it with this even better intake. It includes a well-crafted heatshield to avoid breathing in a lot of hot air. The intake still draws the cool air from behind the foglights, as the stock system did, and it works quite well. The sounds is absolutely incredibly. Big, boistrous turbo sound - and it makes the bypass valve loud enough that it sounds a bit like a blow off. Additionallyl, I've noticed a freer-spooling turbo since this install, and the car just feels a whole lot peppier. Pretty sweet, awesome product.

Also, because the filter is blue and spiky, and has a shiny ring on the end of it, I call it the hedgehog. So now my car actually has a name: Sonic. Makes sense, eh? Sonic, the Hedgehog.... yeah, I'm a Sega kid.

Forge Eliminator Diverter Valve
I replaced my failing stock Bosch valve with this upgraded unit from Forge, and I'm very pleased with it. Installation took only a few minutes and required only a pair of pliers. The butt dyno results show an improved turbo spool-up, and the valve also helps hold steadier boost under wide open throttle. The bult-up pressure is vented quicker than with the stock valve, and the sound is slightly louder as well. Two thumbs up :)

Sound Insulation Delete
I also removed the black foam insulation installed on the underside of the hood. It's sole purpose is sound insulation, and I want my engine noises to be more audible, so out it comes. Also, theoretically, since the insulation acts as a blanket over the engine (trapping the heat in), removing the insulation improves the airflow under the hood and also keeps the engine running slightly cooler.

Homebrew intercooler sprayer

To combat the issue of a heat-soaking intercooler that may cause higher intake temperatures and subsequent performance degredation, I designed a spraying system that would mist the IC with a cooling solution. For winter, I run 50% washer fluid in water, and in summer I'll use a %50 isopropyl alcohol solution. After toying with the idea of using my existing washer reservoir and just re-routing the spray for the rear washer, I found a good deal on a tank+pump, so I ended up with those parts from a Mazda Miata. The tank fit nicely in the space where the intake resonator once was. I use a fighter pilot-style toggle switch with a safety cover to run the pump, and I'm using a misting sprinkler from HomeDepot to spray a nice stream across the front of the IC.

Mark II
I updated the original design with new hoses and a new spray nozzle. The hose is 1/4" irrigation hose designed for sprinkler systems, and the nozzle is a fogger designed for the same system. It creates a much finer mist, so is better suited for my purposes.

Mark III works! I've got the boost pressure switch in-line with the line to the boost gauge and set to close the circuit at ~13-14psi. I've also got an illuminated rocker switch installed in series with the boost switch - I use that rocker as a master power switch, AND the light serves to alert me to when the sprayer is operating. The red light is bright enough to be seen without actually looking at it, so that keeps my eyes on the road.

I took the Saab to the drag strip last night, and got a chance to test the sprayer under track conditions. Of course, the sprayer was running for the majority of each 1/8mi run - I was out of the car within thirty seconds of the finish of the run, and I checked the IC. Results? IC was quite cool and dry, while the surrounding area (stuff not hit by direct airflow) was still damp. This means that the sprayer IS actually spraying, and the alcohol/water solution is evaporating quick so it does take at least SOME heat with it. Mission accomplished :)

Transmission
Spec Stage 2 Peformance Clutch with Viggen Pressure Plate
I replaced the stock clutch and pressure plate after it started slipping from the Nordic power, and opted for Spec's kevlar clutch disk and a Viggen pressure plate as available from GenuineSaab.com. The clutch definitely grabs harder, and is great for driving aggressively. The downside to the extra grabbiness is that it can be a little bit tricky to drive slowly - it takes some time to get used to the clutch enough to be able to slip it out for a smooth launch from a stop light. Overall, I'm very pleased with the clutch/plate combo.

GenuineSaab Sport Transmission Mount
I added this mount as a gift for my car when it passed the monumental 100,000 mile mark. Install took under an hour and was pretty straight-forward. Noticed a much more solid shifter feel, and it is much easier to shift hard and fast under acceleration with this stiffer mount.

MP Performance Adjustable Short Shifter
After a lot of problems and issues along the way, I finally got my short shifter installed. I'm quite pleased with the end result. During the install, I went ahead and removed the reverse-lockout feature (which allowed me to further reduce the throw). The side-effect of this is that I no longer have to put the gearshift in reverse to remove the key - quite convenient. Currently, the shifter reduces my shift throws by a little more than an inch both ways, which is quite a significant improvement. I plan to file down the inside of the shifter housing sometime this summer so I can further reduce my shifts without the linkage rod scraping against the housing. Downside to this install: I broke the contacts on my push-button starter, so it's back to the ignition key deal...

Exhaust

Saab USA 9-3 2.5" Sport Exhaust with the double-walled exhaust tip
This stainless steel cat-back exhaust replaces everything aft of the flexpipe (which can also be replaced). Compared to the stock exhaust, this sport exhaust is poses less resistance to the exhaust gases and also sounds really cool!

I've read reports of horsepower gains of anywhere from 7-10 hp, but the most noticeable performance improvement is a faster spool-up time for the turbo, so I can use that boost sooner. Also, my SOP (Seat Of Pants) dyno tells me that the car feels more responsive under throttle.

The sound of the system is really impressive, not obnoxiously loud, but certainly audible. It's a deep, powerful sound - entirely unlike the neighbor's Honda with the Folger's coffee-style fart can (you know, the one that sounds like a weed-eater). At idle, the sport exhaust's tone is low and reserved, and once you punch the throttle, it springs to a mighty rumble.

And the tip I selected, the double-walled rectangular one, looks magnificent. It's polished stainless, with the Saab logo engraved on the top. And perhaps the coolest thing about it is that it looks almost stock. My buddy that helped me install the system said that if he hadn't been present for the installation, he would have thought the tip was stock. Beautiful.

3" Racecat Downpipe
As you can see from the below comparison picture, the stock downpipe includes two restrictive catalytic converters and 2.5" (I think) piping. This downpipe + racecat from GenuineSaab elminates one of those cats, and replaces the other with a high-performance metallic race catalyst. The downpipe also features 3" piping from the turbo to the cat, with a custom-made flange for easy fitting. The craftsmanship was, like all GenuineSaab products, top-notch, and the install took about two hours with three non-mechanic people and the car on Rhino Ramps, and was very simple and straightforward. All the pieces fit together perfectly and I was very impressed with how easy it actually was.

After driving with the DP on for a little while, I quickly realized what an improvement this piece makes. Turbo lag has become a thing of the past: cruising at 40mph in third gear, I punch the gas and hit peak boost in about seven-tenths of a second. Incredible! The car seems to pull much much harder. The exhaust is noticeably louder when under acceleration, but very reserved when cruising or idling. It still has a beautiful turbo tone, with just a bit of an edge to it. It sounds like I imagine a tuned car should: loud, but not harsh - just loud and aggressive. Let me reiterate: this is an amazing piece of hardware, and I highly recommend it.

Suspension
The Saab 9-3, being a relatively high-torque front wheel drive vehicle, has a serious problem with torque steer. When you stomp the accelerator, it has a natural tendency to pull to the right. These suspension upgrades have all but eliminated this effect, as well as improving the cornering performance and overall driveability.

Taliaferro rear anti-roll bar (22mm)
This sway bar replaces the stock 19mm (I think?) sway bar, and drastically improves the handling of the vehicle for under $100. It's a pretty straight-forward install... ramp/lift the back of the car and remove the existing bar, and replace it with the new.

The difference that this piece of hardware makes is incredible. Not only does the car roll less in turns, but it also becomes much more stable at highway speeds. In addition, by balancing out the back end better, it helps the front tires maintain traction when acceleration shifts the weight to the rear, which in turn helps to eliminate the torque steer.

MP Performance 9-3 subframe brace
This bar goes underneath the engine compartment and, along with the strut bar across the top of that compartment, helps prevent frame flexing during hard cornering. The install is a little bit trickier than the anti-roll bar, since this hardware has no stock equivalent to simply remove and replace. Installation requires drilling through the plastic underbody guard and mounting the bar between two parts of the subframe. Also a pretty easy install, and a inexpensive upgrade that makes a significant difference.

***Update (2/27/06): I removed the MP subframe brace. After having it on for six months, I looked at it and the brace is bent and twisted. The bolts are bent and no longer held the brace close to the subframe brace. I'm thinking that since I installed the brace at the same time as the GS rear sway I attributed more to the MP brace than I should have. Anyway, it's off, and I didn't see any decrease in performance. This brace was a waste of money - the only positive thing I can see about it is that it would do a great job of protecting your downpipe from getting hit by road debris. Think of it as a brushguard for beneath your car.***

GenuineSaab Steering Rack Brace & Clamp
This is the end-all mod for eliminating all traces of torque steer on a Saab. The stock foam rubber-filled steering rack clamp is easily replaced with a much sturdier metal clamp that helps to prevent movement of the rack under hard acceleration. The clamp is further strengthened by the taut brace used to hold it firmly in place. The result: the front wheels stay on the ground during intense cornering, and the effects of the infamous torque steer are darn near unnoticeable. I'd highly recommend this steering rack brace and clamp, possibly as a package with the 22mm rear anti-roll bar. You save money if you buy them together!

Brakes
Brembo front brake disks + Akebono front brake pads
I purchased this brake combo after my stock front brakes needed replacing. The rotors + pads were about the same price as the OEM equivalent, so I figured I'd go on and upgrade. I'm glad I did. This combo stops the car quite effectively. And I love the pads - no dust! So now my front wheels aren't covered in brake dust two days after being washed. It's wonderful!