The 1995 M3's have a 3.0L in-line 6. They're renowned for developing good horsepower and torque numbers while still being able to go well over 250,000 miles before needing an overhaul.
All 3.0-liter E36 M3s were built on the regular 3 Series assembly line at the Regensburg factory near Munich with the excpetion of a small batch of coupes assembled in South Africa from German-supplied Semi Knocked-Down kits exclusively for that market.
The M3 marked the introduction of the S50 B30 engine. This engine was a heavily modified version of the 2.5L M50. It had larger pistons and other enhancements to increase the output. The European version leveraged independent throttle bodies and was unrestricted by catalytic converters which increased output to 286hp. The Euro version also had a different cylinder head than the US version. This makes it virtually impossible to convert a US engine to a Euro engine. However, some suppliers offer third party parts that will work on a US engine. The US version (M50 B30) reverted to the same intake system used with the stock 2.5L M50, and the horsepower was reduced to 240hp. However, BMW did tune the engine and gearing to improve low-end torque for the US driver. As a result, if you were to put a US and Euro side by side, they would perform just about the same up to about 60mph. It is on the high end where the Euro version takes advantage of the intake system.
CAI: Active Autowerke w/K&N - Great sound. Especially form 6,000 to 7,000 RPM
MAF: 3.5" HFM (MAF) Euro upgrade w/24lb injectors - Active Autowerke This really opens up the breathing and lets me run more fuel.
Chip: Active Autowerke - Redline is set at 7,300 rpm. But I think 7,000 rpm would be safer.
Header: SuperSprint. A real piece of art and lightweight too.
Track Pipe: SuperSprint. Good sound and lightweight
Cat-back: Borla. Typically great Borla sound and looks.
These cars have two fans. an electric pusher mounted in front of the radiator and a clutch fan mounted to the engine. Because my car is run hard, I decided that I wanted to improve it's ability to deal with the heat generated on the track. I picked up a 16" Spal electric fan to replace the clutch fan.
The picture is of the curved 16" fan, but I'm using the more efficient straight-blade 16" fan.
This fan can be wired so that it comes on when it gets the signal from the temperature sensor that the water temperature has exceeded 185-F and it will run even after the car is turned off. A switch mounted inside on the console can override everything and turn the fan on to continously run. This is helpful when sitting in the staging area before a race, etc. (waiting to install the console switch)
I've also tried to replace all the coolant hoses. The most obvious ones are the upper and lower rad hoses that are now Samco Silicone hoses.
Mine are red to better match the car.
2006-09-02: Unfortunately, my efforts at helping the car cool weren't any match for a mechanic overtightening a hose clamp on one of the few relatively new hoses that I didn't replace. I had receipts for that hose having been replaced at the dealer approximately 3 years ago and decided that it would be fine till the winter when I'd do most of my preventative maintenance work. Long story short - the hose burst along the hose clamp at the track. I noticed the temp gauge moving up before it got to the 3/4 mark and did a cool-down lap with an eye on the gauge. As it didn't move I figured there must be a small leak that resulted in a loss of pressure. I jury-rigged a fix and the car seemed fine (didn't track it any more that day). After replacing the offending hose everything checked out OK. Unfortunately, after 2 more Solo IIs the head carcked!!! Here's what it looks like waiting for the head to be installed.
While this really put a damper on things, I've replaced the head with a SunBelt Performance Engines Stage II head, that will be installed shortly.
I'm looking forward to good gains and will be dyno tuning it to adjust for the cams and porting. The head has SunBelt's spring kit and Stage II cams.
SunBelt also ported and polished it.
2006-09-30 Well, I got everything together and took it to the track last Saturday. The car ran like a champ. More power everywhere without any fine-tuning. I hooked up a wide-band O2 sensor to the car and an LM-1 Data Logger to get enough data to allow for some fine tuning of the fuel tables, etc. I was already getting a full 10 mph more on the back straight without maximizing things! 8=)
Unfortunately, on my third session (test-n-tune track day) shifting from 3rd to 4th coming onto the back straight, the motor went to crap. It felt like the timing chain jumped a tooth or two and that now appears to be what likely occured. I've just gotten the head off and won't know fully until I pull the motor and check everything.
It took out 3 intake valves. Cylinder 6 is complete toast the combustion chamber has lost both intake valves at the neck and it's surface is destroyed, while the piston is completely mangled with a gaping hole in it and the head of one of the intake valves stuck sideways in the piston top!!!. Cylinder 1's combustion chamber has one of it's intake valves lodged sideways in the intake port and the piston is also toast.
I found one valve head, half a valve seat and lots of metal pieces in the intake manifold when I removed it. 8=((( I've now got the unpleasant task of dismantiling the engine and accessing the extent of the damage. From there, the condition of things will dictate either a rebuild or a new engine.
I've located a 1997 3.2L M3 engine and am in the process of getting it paid for and shipped to me.
Newest parts to be installed are a UUC Lightweight Flywheel and Organic Performance sprung clutch disc, along with their Stainless Clutch Line to make everything nice and firm.
Finally got the 3.2L M3 engine installed and running
Going to the 3.2L will provide some more power and torque. Always a nice thing. This does however require changing the 3.2L over to run OBDI as it is an OBDII engine. Not a big issue, but one does need all the right parts.
Also took the opportunity, while the engine was out to do some preventative maintenance:
1 - safety wire the oil pump nut. This is a common area of concern for people with E36 M3s so it made sense to fix it.
2 - added a VAC Motorsports oil pan baffle
3 - added a Victory Product Design Oil Cooler setup.
Started our tuning process. This consists of data-logging using Innovative Motorsports' LM-1 along with their LMA-2 to log Air/Fuel Ratios, Throttle Position and RPM. With this data you can then tune the ECU Chip for optimal performance.
2007-12-06 Will be testing the new LSD tonight. If it's good then we'll start a winter rebuild on the 3.2L to make it good and strong for 2008.
Page 1 - Overview
Page 2 - Wheels and Tires
Page 3 - Engine and Exhaust
Page 4 - Suspension and Chassis
Page 5 - Brakes
Page 6 - Drivetrain
Page 7 - Future Mods - Wish List
Page 8 - AutoSlalom (Solo II)
Page 9 - BMW Advanced Driving School
Page 10 - Interior
Page 11 - Engine Rebuild
Page 12 - Media Coverage of the car
Page 13 - Engine Failure - what else would one put on page 13