After the first dyno run, i was determined to service my fuel system. Like installing an additional fuel filter between the gas tank and the fuel pump, replacing the fuel filter, and pulling all the ingectors for service. This should make my Z more responsive and help the leaning at high RPM issue.

Here are all of the injectors after I removed them. #3 injector had a chipped nozzel. I am going to sent them off for servicing and I ordered new O rings and electrical connectors from MSA.

I stripped a corroded, rusted, 28-year old screw on the #3 injector. I am headed down a path I dont want to go.

After Dremmeling a flat head in a phillips head, I made sure the screw was REALLY stripped beyond salvation. So I just cut it off.

With the head of the screw off, I pulled the injector leaving the stubborn, f-ing maddening screw in the engine.

In my haste to get the #3 injector off, I accidentally mangled the rail barb. Oh well, lesson learned and nothing an extra hose clamp wont fix...

I cleaned out the fuel lines by blowing the lines out with compressed air, then brake cleaner, then compressed air. Repeat as needed.

More proof that engineers are good for something - holding a cup for the dirty fuel/brake cleaner at the other end! Got some crud out of the fuel lines and fuel rail.

The injectors after servicing from Marren Injectors. These guys were sensitive to my time needs and took their time answering all of my noob questions. They replaced the tips, and injector holding rings, and scraped most of the rust off. Even got a print out of before and after flow testing. Hopefully I will see dramatic drivability/throttle response improvement.

I accidentally put 1 to 1/2 inch too much FI hose on so the rail wouldnt seat right. The CORRECT amount of hose to put back on is about 2.5 inches per hose.

I installed a fuel filter (a Wick - Fram G3 equivalent) between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. It is a popular upgrade to catch rust and corrosion that is sure to be in my 30-year old gas tank.

Interesting. About 3 months later after 3 autocrosses, a dyno, a drag race at Moroso Motorsports Park, and some long sunday drives later, my filter has rust-like sediment in it. Even though when I have drained the gas tank (on at least 2 occaisions) it has been clear as vodka.

...and the replacement. This is really easy, just a matter of taking off the rear wheel and undoing two worm-clamps. I will probably start changing this every time I change my oil.

All the injectors back in with the correct amount of FI hose. I used but connectors and di-electric grease to make the connections from my wiring harness to my new injector connectors from MSA.

With everything back together, I took the Z for a test drive for some gas, poped the hood and there was antifreeze pooling on the top of the engine. While I was wiggleing the fuel rail around, the clamps holding the hoses from the radiator temperature gauge to the throttle body loosened. I tightened them down and no more sweet smell while driving.

While I had the plugs pulled off, I replaced them with Taylor 8mm High-pro wires and I also replaced the plugs with NGKs. Project completed. Wiring done. Everything back together. I think it looks pretty good and seems to run much better, idle better, more responsive, and the "click, click, click" sound is gone.

Here is a good little diagnostic problem - based on dyno testing, my Z is running lean and I am on the hunt as to why.

After servicing my fuel injectors, i think my fuel system is in good shape. I installed a fuel gauge between the engine compartment fuel filter and the fuel rail to see why the engine is starved for gas.

Ah ha! 22 psi! The FSM says that my fuel system should be a steady 36.2 psi! Well, following the trouble shooting guide in the FSM its time to check for deformed fuel lines, corrosion on the connectors, and vacuum leaks!

With antifreeze pooling on the top of my engine from a leaking heater hose and #3 injector barb that I mangles earlier (see above), I decided to install my custom PALLNET fuel rail.

You will need 8 ft of 1/4 or 5/16 th's inch fule injectoin-rated hose, at least 17 FI hose clamps, Red Threadlock (for the FI clamps), and some PB Blaster (for loosening old bolts and connectors).

First take the old rail out...say goodbye to a 29 year ride!

Here are the injectors with about 1 and 3/4-inches of hose each. This is how the FSM said to line them up - so the barbs of the FI rail are barely touching the FI barbs.

Here is the stock FPR. You will need to relocate this. I relocated mine to the heater hoses next to the firewall and secured it using zip-ties (for now...when I get more time I plan on mounting it with a bracket). Straight pipe on top is for the vacuum hose, straight inlet on side runs from the back (firewall side) of the rail, and the elbowed pipe on bottom runs to the outlet line - located right next to the inlet line on the passengers side frame rail (closest to the firewall).

Not pretty, but secured and clamped. I turned the key and let the fuel pump build pressure, then tried to start it 4 or 5 times (usually fires right up on the 1st or 2nd try). Once it got gas, it fired up, idled strong, and reved well.

Here is a shot of the completed custom fuel rail project. I ran the vacuum line over the top of the crank case with the sparkplugs. Note the new location of the FPR. The two brackets for securing the rail to the top of the engine did not line up and were very difficult to secure. I bent mine with channel locks, then used a screw driver to secure.

The Z runs good but idles more rough than it did before I installed the rail. This COULD be a function of removing the cold start valve and leaving the thermotime sensor and the AAR hooked up. Need to tune and sort the engine. Stay tuned!

Alright, I think I fixed the fuel pressure problem. See above - I was getting a fuel pressure reading of 22-psi which is well below what the FSM said - 36.2-psi. Since the fuel pump was reportedly new in 2003, I focused my attention on the FPR which I have had in and out of the car on several occaisions, so I might have damaged it and not known about it.

The original FPR is a raising-rate type with a vacuum hose attached to the intake. As the car gets more gas, the FPR increases the fuel flow. Under revs with the stock unit I wasnt even getting close to 36.2-psi, maybe 30 at most. AND I have dyno results showing really lean conditions at high RPMs which also could be traced back to my stock FPR malfunctioning.

So I ordered an MSD Ignition non-raising-rate adjustable FPR from Summit Racing for about $70 and installed it. There is no vacuum line so I deleted one more place where I could potentially have a vacuum leak. I dialed in 36-psi and now the Z idles better, accelerates better, and (expectedly) drinks more gas. So the problem appears to be fixed for now!