Here is what it looks like when you remove the engine cradle from the bottom on a 4th gen F-body

First off, you need to get the car up in the air to get access to all the stuff underneath, and make sure it is well supported for when you raise the front end. You will need to raise it enough to get underneath and remove the driveshaft, torque arm, battery cables to the starter, and the subframe bolts, as well as the transmission crossmember, and exhaust. James said it took him about three hours by himself, I guess his buddies showed up while he was working on it! This is also his first time, so it appears to be something anyone can handle.

Here you can see how high the front end has to go to clear the cradle. You can get an idea by measuring the top of your motor when the car is on the ground; you will need to get the car at least that high to clear. Be aware that when you lift the front of the car, it might want to roll one way or another, make sure and block the rear tires. James used a strap on his STB, and lifted the front end with an engine hoist; your setup may differ. Remember to support the center of the k-member with a floorjack, without the upper control arm mounts it will drop when you unbolt it.

Car eats man! Film at 11!! just kidding, but you can see just how high you will need to go, this is James' friend Claude, who is 5' 11"; that will give you a reference.

Here is the trans tunnel, crossmember mounts, etc. Notice the car ramps and jackstands to hold the front of the car up, looks pretty secure. Don't short cut when you are going to be working under the car.

James used an old set of rims and tires, along with some boards, to provide a secure spot for the rear tires. I wonder if it will launch like that at the track, what with the new blower and all??!!

You can use a floor jack at the rear of the trans, and roll the entire assembly where ever you need it. You will also need a second floor jack under the k-member, as noted above. Notice how all the accessories stay with the motor, the only thing you would have to disconnect would be the a/c lines.

Another angle, you can see the rear subframe mounts, and how the upper control arms are attached. Also note again how everything doesn't have to be tied off and pulled back. I think about fighting and cussing the front of the firewall, and I think this is the way I will go next time.

"Honey, what have you done?? I thought you told me you were doing a tune up!!" I bet you have all heard those words before, right?!! That's Claudes girlfriend being "mechanic du-juor!"

Ok, now we got it out, what next? James and his partners in crime ponder their next moves, and declare Beer Thirty!!

Passenger side view, since the upper control arms are unattached, a second floor jack is needed to support the engine.

Getting it back together, notice the front subframe mount hole, and also the upper control arm mounting plate. Think about how these are attached in your car, and you will get an idea of how this thing comes apart.

Close up of the new timing chain and gears. James used a Cloyes Billet setup, looks ready to go, lined up "dot to dot". The Cloyes is similar to the LT4 Extreme setup, with billet steel gears, rather than the factory cast ones.

This is a real good view of the trans tunnel, and how the steering was disconnected at the rack. Notice also the clutch slave hose, and all the various disconnect point that you will need to think about. I think it would be a good idea to make a list before you start, and then as you go along, to make sure nothing gets skipped.