

Page 2 is a engine removal from the bottom, courtesy of James Maldonado (jmaldonado@NA2.US.ML.com)
Page 3 is a homemade cold air/ram air scoop for LT1 F-bodies, and also some budget CAI ideas
Page 4 is a Hooker LT install
Page 5 is my twin turbo 68 camaro project
Page 6 is how to fit 28x13.5 tires on a 4th Gen F-body
Page 7 is pics of past projects and friends cars I have done work on
Page 8 is a V8 Vega buildup
Page 9 is "free horsepower"
Page 10 is The Power Adder Page
- Disclaimer -
As with anything that is on the web, this site and it's contents are for reference only. We do not take any responsibility for the accuracy of the information contained within. This is a "help" site, to show what others have done.
I'll be updating this page from time to time, with pics of projects, both from stuff I have done, and contributions from others... So if you tore into your motor or trans, or rear end, and have some pics and helpful hints, let me know and I will toss them in somewhere!
If you didn't get here from my home page, here is a link:
Heads Up Racing, Inc.
Here are a couple links to sites with lots of tech and project info:
Fbody.com Tech Articles
Project Trans Am
Drag Suspension Tuning
Tuning a 4-link
Here is a link to the Street Illusions Racing site, step by step cam removal, with pics.. check them out
Cam Install How-To
Wheel studs for 4th gen F-bodies:
metric replacements, 2.67" x 12mm-1.5, with knurled base, ARP-100-7708
1/2" screw-in for Strange axles, 3" x 1/2"-20, MOR-46200
Replacement air filter element for Moroso CAI, MOR-97515
Since it looks like a lot of people are going to the electric water pump on their LT1, I've gathered a few links for how-to's:
Wiring & Stuff
Good Pics of CSI Install
I have seen a bunch of people asking how to adjust valves after RR and cam swaps; here is how I do it.. this came from a Comp Cams install brochure, and I have been doing it this way for years:
1. Unplug coilwire, remove valve covers
2. connect a remote starter button, or draft a buddy/wife/girlfriend
3. pick one end of either side to start (doesn't really matter)
4. while watching the exhaust rocker, bump the motor over a little at a time, until it *just* starts to open STOP!
5. loosen nut on adjoining intake rocker, and while spinning the pushrod with your fingers, snug down until the pushrods starts dragging, this is "zero" lash. Then tighten it 1/4 to 1 turn, depending on your preference (I do 1/4 to 1/2) Set the set-screw
6. watch the intake rocker you just set, and bump the motor over. Watch it open, then almost close, *STOP*. Now adjust the exhaust rocker on the same cylinder, the same way.
7. continue to next pair, lather rinse repeat!
8. this method puts the lifter on the base lobe of the cam, so your adjustment is correct. If it is a new build with hydraulic lifters, make sure to prelube the lifters before beginning ...
LT1/LT4/LT4 Hot Cam Specs
Forgot I had this laying around..
The "factory" installed cams were almost identical, as far as the lobe lift, duration and overlap; they used 1.5 on the LT1, and 1.6 on the LT4
The LT4 "Hot Cam" was NOT factory installed, and has a little more lobe lift, less overlap, more duration, and ends up at .525 with 1.6 rockers, as opposed the the "stock" LT 4 cam that was around .479 with 1.6
Here are the lobe specs for all three cams,
LT1 in .298 ex. .306 dur in 205 ex 207
LT4 in .298 ex. .299 dur in 203 ex 210
Hot in .328 ex. .328 dur in 219 ex 228
that's why everyone recommended adding 1.6 rockers to the LT1, that gave you the same cam as the LT4 had!
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